cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

don't hit the wall too much

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

spoken from a true wall hugger.
Hey I only hit the wall that one time.

mhavlena

What about the rear split blocks? If a 0.5 mm shim is currently being used underneath the XA block, then do the split blocks require shimming?

thx!!

sonic31

iTrader: (6)

use the tamiya 46mm dogbones in the front, that should help. also try cleaning the whole universals up then rebuild them with the loctite. after you're done put a piece of shrink tube on the axle to help keep the pin in place.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Yes, they would require shimming. Just treat them the same as a one-piece block mounted the normal way up.

HiH
Ed

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

To stop the pin coming out, you could switch to the 417 axles, that use the spring clip rather than grub screw.
Dogbone wise, use the steel versions in the front (TAM51092 for 46mm, TAM54078 for 44mm) to stop the bending... this last for ages, I have never broken one!
Spool outdrives, my current preference is for the Roche Spring steel... running mod, I've had them on the car for 2months+ now, and still not a scratch on them, top marks from me. I've even had to replace the driveshafts because the pins have worn more than the outdrives!

HiH
Ed

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hi Jilles,

Have you got any suggestions for the 417 on carpet? I've never actually run mine on the rug... and the last time I ran on carpet was almost two years ago now!
Trying to get sorted out for the ATS at Yatabe, not going to have much opportunity to practise, so would like to hit the ground running!
I see Marc, Viktor and Elliott are all running the X at the ETS, including the flexy bits... you think this is the way to go?
I know my 7 feels really good on high traction with it flexied up, so I'm thinking to start out there, and go with White/Blue springs and 500wt... just a little confused where to try the wheelbase and rear block (pic I saw of Viktors car looks like 4mm in front of the rear arm).

Are you going to be coming out to Yatabe for the ATS? or does it clash with the Ride cup?

Thanks in advance
Ed

CHICO1977

Hi u had to replace the drive shaft r they Alu or Steel?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I have always used the steel fronts... until this past weekend where I thought I would try the alloy ones, and promptly broke my first one!

HiH
Ed

Nilks

In my first race ever with the 417 (coming from an Xray) with the alloys up front, I bend one of the driveshafts. No serious hard hits. So steel up front!

Swampracer

iTrader: (72)

Thank you Jilles for releasing your new 3 part video series on the 417. It is very helpful.

I have a question? Is Tamiya planning on releasing the pit towel and pit board you are using in the videos?

If so, where can I find them.

Best regards,

Greg Gherasim
Squamish, B.C. Canada

artwork

iTrader: (88)

I wont speak for Jilles, but if you have a tendency to hit stuff on the track then the best option would be to run Steel up front. I run steel in the front and aluminum in the rear. Not to many drivers I know could get a way with running the aluminum CVDs in the front they are simply too soft.

kedal

Do you think there is a difference running the steel shaft on the rear insteed of the alloy ones ? I run steel on the rear for now.

Minami

iTrader: (5)

any chance of tamiya releasing their own DCJ for the 417?

José Cordeiro

Greg,

Towels and setup boards like those were sent exclusively to japanese supporters of the TRF project along with a respective member card (project supporter member's card). Supposedly, they are only available in Japan (and also for TRF team drivers, of course) but you might get lucky on Ebay???
Good luck!
Cheers,