"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
#1021
Poor traction on concrete
Hi Jilles
I will be racing my 416 on a temporary concrete surface track with very poor traction.
I am using the standard set up from the user manual, which worked well on high traction asphalt.
Could you recommend a set up please (camber, droop, shock oil, springs etc)? And which Tamiya tire works well on a dusty concrete surface?
Thanks
I will be racing my 416 on a temporary concrete surface track with very poor traction.
I am using the standard set up from the user manual, which worked well on high traction asphalt.
Could you recommend a set up please (camber, droop, shock oil, springs etc)? And which Tamiya tire works well on a dusty concrete surface?
Thanks
#1022
Tech Regular
Hi Jilles
I believe I'm right in thinking you're still running KO radio gear??
I'm after a new servo for my 416 - most probably a low profile type. What do you use, and what would you recommend?
Thanks
Oli
I believe I'm right in thinking you're still running KO radio gear??
I'm after a new servo for my 416 - most probably a low profile type. What do you use, and what would you recommend?
Thanks
Oli
#1023
Mr Jilles
Hello Mr Jilles, you have PM. Thank you very much.
#1024
Joel - Normally I never run drag brake running stock motors. It will heat up the motor more and stock motors have already a lot of drag brake itself.
I have tested the mini with long wheelbase back to back with medium and I find on most conditions the medium wheelbase is the faster one.
Vadersing - I recommend the following changes to change while running on low grip surface.
- Camber, little less, 1 degree
- Kick up rear, this helps on power traction, 1mm/0mm
- less droop, more uptravel, try 5mm/4mm
- more toe-in
- 30W shock oil, with soft springs
For tyres I recommend soft type such as Sorex 24R, Pit Shimizu wet tyres.
From Tamiya you even can try the rally tyres from the DB03R.
Also use soft sponge inserts instead of molded inserts.
Oli- Yes, I use KO radio gear. I have been using the 2367 KO servo for a long time in my TC. I like the 2367 as it is strong and powerfull. The 2413 low profile is a good option, but I feel with 2367 I have more consistant steering.
Jilles
I have tested the mini with long wheelbase back to back with medium and I find on most conditions the medium wheelbase is the faster one.
Vadersing - I recommend the following changes to change while running on low grip surface.
- Camber, little less, 1 degree
- Kick up rear, this helps on power traction, 1mm/0mm
- less droop, more uptravel, try 5mm/4mm
- more toe-in
- 30W shock oil, with soft springs
For tyres I recommend soft type such as Sorex 24R, Pit Shimizu wet tyres.
From Tamiya you even can try the rally tyres from the DB03R.
Also use soft sponge inserts instead of molded inserts.
Oli- Yes, I use KO radio gear. I have been using the 2367 KO servo for a long time in my TC. I like the 2367 as it is strong and powerfull. The 2413 low profile is a good option, but I feel with 2367 I have more consistant steering.
Jilles
#1025
Jilles,
How different will you setup your car if you are to run stock, say 11.5 compared to modified.
Springs, shock oil, roll center, downstop etc.
Thank you.
CLK
P.S. Hope you are fine at Bangkok, looking at the news, situation is not getting any better. though the media tend to sensationalise issues.
How different will you setup your car if you are to run stock, say 11.5 compared to modified.
Springs, shock oil, roll center, downstop etc.
Thank you.
CLK
P.S. Hope you are fine at Bangkok, looking at the news, situation is not getting any better. though the media tend to sensationalise issues.
#1026
Hi Jilles,
I watched your pro tips on youtube, and I have a question. I see that you use sticky Tamiya Hard grease between diff outdrive and the diff plates, but that grease is hard to find. I already have tamiya AW grease, which is also very sticky, so can I use that grease there?
Thanks
I watched your pro tips on youtube, and I have a question. I see that you use sticky Tamiya Hard grease between diff outdrive and the diff plates, but that grease is hard to find. I already have tamiya AW grease, which is also very sticky, so can I use that grease there?
Thanks
#1027
#1028
Tech Regular
Oli
#1029
Hi Jilles, I have a WE. I see some have flipped the belts to move electronics more to centerline. Should I do this? If so, ball diff located higher to clear the chassis? Have you tried a gear diff in the rear? Thanks again.
#1030
Hi Jilles . My local track isnt allowing tire sauce . how would you change your setup to compensate from being able to run additive, to not being able . This is on asphalt sprayed with soda . Thanks .
#1031
Mr Jilles
Hello Mr Jilles, please check your inbox for another pm.. Thanks
#1032
Jilles, I have a question:
Im very happy with the way my car is handling, it does have a slight understeer, but it makes the car consistent in the low to medium grip parking lot we race in. The problem I have is that the car is wearing a "death ring" (ie heavy wear on the inside bead of the tire) on the left front tire. Other guys running the same tires dont have this same problem. Anything you would suggest changing? If it was a bgi race I wouldnt care, but since its just club racing id like to get more than 1 weekend out of a set of tires My setup is attached below
Thanks
Im very happy with the way my car is handling, it does have a slight understeer, but it makes the car consistent in the low to medium grip parking lot we race in. The problem I have is that the car is wearing a "death ring" (ie heavy wear on the inside bead of the tire) on the left front tire. Other guys running the same tires dont have this same problem. Anything you would suggest changing? If it was a bgi race I wouldnt care, but since its just club racing id like to get more than 1 weekend out of a set of tires My setup is attached below
Thanks
#1033
Thanks for the tips, Jilles.
What do you mean by 'kick up rear'?
What do you mean by 'kick up rear'?
Vadersing - I recommend the following changes to change while running on low grip surface.
- Camber, little less, 1 degree
- Kick up rear, this helps on power traction, 1mm/0mm
- less droop, more uptravel, try 5mm/4mm
- more toe-in
- 30W shock oil, with soft springs
For tyres I recommend soft type such as Sorex 24R, Pit Shimizu wet tyres.
From Tamiya you even can try the rally tyres from the DB03R.
Also use soft sponge inserts instead of molded inserts.
Jilles
- Camber, little less, 1 degree
- Kick up rear, this helps on power traction, 1mm/0mm
- less droop, more uptravel, try 5mm/4mm
- more toe-in
- 30W shock oil, with soft springs
For tyres I recommend soft type such as Sorex 24R, Pit Shimizu wet tyres.
From Tamiya you even can try the rally tyres from the DB03R.
Also use soft sponge inserts instead of molded inserts.
Jilles
#1034
Hello Jilles
Enrico Cardani from Italy and I want some info to get a better setup in my/our 416x.
So, when I ran indoors, and copying your setup, everything went well; now in our Racing Club in Milan when Solaris tires are imposed (before with medium insert and hard now) we have a lots of troubles.
Here my/our problems:
The track has an asphalt abrasive, not smooth without bumpy with medium/low grip surface; the category is powered by 10.5.
The cars use much internal tire (front and rear) and after 4/5 rounds are destroyed; the car have a lots of slipping; sometimes seems to drive on ice.
The guys that use the same setup with LRP or Novak 10.5 motor and a body similar to LTCR Protoform have a good balance, other with same setup and Mazda 6 or Mazda 6 Speed Protoform powered by SpeedPassion V3 10.5 or Lipotek 10.5 have many troubles.
I send two setups:
The first setup it’s relative at the race start; the second at the end race without better balance.
Can you give us some Help?
Enrico Cardani from Italy and I want some info to get a better setup in my/our 416x.
So, when I ran indoors, and copying your setup, everything went well; now in our Racing Club in Milan when Solaris tires are imposed (before with medium insert and hard now) we have a lots of troubles.
Here my/our problems:
The track has an asphalt abrasive, not smooth without bumpy with medium/low grip surface; the category is powered by 10.5.
The cars use much internal tire (front and rear) and after 4/5 rounds are destroyed; the car have a lots of slipping; sometimes seems to drive on ice.
The guys that use the same setup with LRP or Novak 10.5 motor and a body similar to LTCR Protoform have a good balance, other with same setup and Mazda 6 or Mazda 6 Speed Protoform powered by SpeedPassion V3 10.5 or Lipotek 10.5 have many troubles.
I send two setups:
The first setup it’s relative at the race start; the second at the end race without better balance.
Can you give us some Help?