Fatal1ty

Thanks auzzy_mate and Stein Tumert, but I need the Setup Know-How specially for the 416/416WE!

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

all touring cars are pretty much the same for setting up

i have a copy of the Xray set up book on my laptop i could email to you if you want it ???

good read if you understand the technical babble

Fatal1ty

Thanks phil, but I have the german version of the Hudy Setup book... It's complicated writen...

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

it will be

unless your german

Acid_CZ

Hi Jilles,
first of all, thank you for doing this support.

I'd like to ask, what servosaver do you use? I tryied to replace original plastic arm by alu one as seen on Marcs' car , but there is still terrible play

sorry if you allready answered this before

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hi Acid,
Try replacing the plastic parts at the same time, these also wear out quicker than the alloy part.
Also, as a tip, use a little light greese in the servo saver when building it, it keeps it smooth and working properly.

If you've still got play after that, look at changing your ball joints and cups, these are also a source of play (or do the plastic bag trick to remove as much as possible).

HiH
Ed

Acid_CZ

This is not the problem, plastic parts are "like new".
Protrusion on alu arm is 0,05 mm wider than protrusion on plastic part, but when assembled, biggest play is between saver spring and alu arm. When I turn alu arm a bit more over the spring force, then the spring slides on the plastic part and so do endpoints of that play.
It seems to me like diam. of plastic part with spline is too big, so it open the spring and thats why it behaves like described above.
Friend of mine offered me yokomo servo saver for this weekends race, so I guess I'll test it.

Still curious what big guys use

dameetz

Some friends of mine are using Yokomo savers too (the one for Yok drift cars) and they felt they lost a bit of steering, maybe because the saver spring is too soft.

Though I do not have problems with the stock plastic one I did upgrade mine to Square blue alum saver for the sake of its bling Anyhow somebody here advised me to use the paper card board trick to fill the gaps between the spring and the the plastic spring stopper.

Try to look for Kawada savers which has a breakable and replaceable pins. My LHS has it but I have yet to try it. Looks very good to me.

JGH

B.S
On asphalt Trinity Tire Tweak is most used, carpet I prefer CS yellow or LRP carpet 2.

Nutsisneat,
I never really tested 2 hole piston, I always run 3 hole and then play with the shockoil.

Clinton,
The ceramic diff balls I use are from Square, some Japanese hop-up company, they have all kind of nice bits for the 416.

Panda racer,
When there is enough traction I always lay down the rear shock to get little more rotation, I always use middle hole in front. Rollcenter is 99% same as my basic set-up, always works best.

Sandro,
Thanks for your post but please be little more specific because I really can't answer your questions. I suggest to read Martin Crisp his set-up guide, this is really clear and then you can understand what specific change will effect the handling.

Acid_CZ
I use the servo saver arm from Square, same as Marc.
You have to replace ones a while the servo saver plastic and ring(3).
If this still doesn't help you can try another servo saver or only servo horn if you really need "no play" .

Oke guys,
This weekend I will be racing the ETS in Apeldoorn The Netherlands so I will check this forum back on monday!

Jilles

razzor

The Xray manual has excellent info but the car has some different features.
Try the Serpent Setup manual which is more reflective of most chassis available.
http://serpent.com/file.php?FileID=4897

Fatal1ty

Thanks for the infos!

auzzy_mate

iTrader: (5)

Gday Jilles,

Can I ask a question in relation to Front and Rear Droop? What is a good starting position for a new track?

At the moment I am running 4 in the front and 3 in the rear, but often hear of guys with 6f & 5r or more.

Ben

mamaa

Setting sheet 1st ETS in Apeldoorn

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

Again i thank you Jilles

what a guy , friendly , approachable , knowledgeable about his sport and the TRF416

i pestered him all weekend for tips on my set up and he never once told me to f*%k off





and i now have another Question

how do you deal with the pressure of the races/ finals ??

i was 3rd in the 1st final and in the 2nd i was 2nd but the pressure was too much and i made a lot of mistakes and finished 6th of 7 in both heats

i know the car is quick as my fastest lap was an 18.20 (my personal best and one of the quickest of the final) but i just felt so much pressure i couldn't keep a consistant line

i can drive well and consistantly on my own

Richard Drury

Hi Jilles

I currently run a couple of 416 Worlds for Indoor racing and a 415 MSX for outdoor stuff.

We are currently running a 13.5 brushless series at our local club. My problem is that my car seems to lack "pick up" or "punch" out of the corners. Initially i assumed that it must be the motor or the speedo. I am sure that its not my batteries as i use my Trakpower 3600 30C Lipos in my Schumacher CAT SX and the punch is fantastic on a much more power hungry 5.5 motor.
So, i purchased a new orion vortex 13.5 motor and a new LRP TC Spec speedo. Fitted both and the car feels pretty much the same. The diff isnt slipping, the speedo has been set to a punch level of 6 and my KO Universe Tranny is on std settings for throttle curve/punch etc.

Currently im running a 100 spur and a 40 tooth 64pitch pinion. If i recall correctly, the final drive ratio is around 5.13. The motor was at 59 Celcius when i tested it straight after a race with my laser gun.

We race on polished wooden floor with 21mm Schumacher narrow yellow minipin tyres

Am i missing something ? The guy who gives me the greatest test at our club runs a MI3.5 and his car is just soo punchy between the bends. Top end theres nothing in it but my pickup is lousy. Please help !