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Old 04-23-2011, 09:33 AM   #1471
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Hi Jilles,

what does it mine if u only type 2mm spacer in front of the frontarm?
is there suppose to be 0 mm in the back then?

Thinking off your basic outdoor rubber setup?
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:31 PM   #1472
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Jilles,

How do you maintain the bearings on your cars? How do you clean them in between races? How long do you feel they last?

Good luck this season!!!
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Old 04-24-2011, 05:18 AM   #1473
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Jilles, on your snowbirds setup what would you change to achive more corner exit steering? thanks
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:28 AM   #1474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cp Grafix View Post
Hi Jilles,

what does it mine if u only type 2mm spacer in front of the frontarm?
is there suppose to be 0 mm in the back then?

Thinking off your basic outdoor rubber setup?
- Cp Grafix
2mm front and 2.5mm back, as total shims of the suspension arms is 4.5mm

Quote:
Originally Posted by AWK View Post
Jilles,

How do you maintain the bearings on your cars? How do you clean them in between races? How long do you feel they last?

Good luck this season!!!
- AWK
Honestly I never clean the bearings, I run them till they feel not good anymore and replace them. Some bearings I still use over 1 year already and still they are fine.


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Originally Posted by franc furter View Post
Jilles, on your snowbirds setup what would you change to achive more corner exit steering? thanks
- Franc, to get more exit steering you can try arm sweep. Like 1C and 1B blocks. This gives more caster so more exit steering.

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Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
What is the reason for that? On power grip, something else? Any circumpstace U still use a ball diff?
- Big Wig, the geardiff has zero slip, therefor you have more drive on the rear, then a balldiff. That's why geardiff has more steering on-power. All tracks I use geardiff in the rear now.

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Originally Posted by WinDarK83 View Post
Hi Jilles, I understand, you use FF 0 mm and FR 0.5mm ?ŋ

Regards
- Win dark, correct!

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Originally Posted by Jon-b View Post
Ok pefect !! Thank you very much that answered my question completly I'm gonna run it in the rear with 1000WT thanks again
- Jon, let me know how things went with your test/race

Jilles
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:51 AM   #1475
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Hello Jilles, thanks for all your help, i donīt run a Tamiya car, but i follow this post because is very helpfull, Ronald help too, in yokomo post, and anothers top drivers, this is good for the hobby.

I have a litle problem, i think this is indiferent for a brand of car, with my setup normally my car work very good with new tyres, but the performance going down a lot with used tyres, sometimes in the 2nd battery, do you have a tip, change in setup, ... for the performance going down less, or do you think need 2 diferents setups for new-used tyres.

Thanks, Luis C.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:52 AM   #1476
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Hi Jilles,

Finally got to use my Sanwa handset today (it's been how many months since TITC!!), anyway, I have a question for you on how you set yours up.

I'm having to run 115% D/R (with EPA's at 100%R, 95%L) to get my desired amount of lock... does this sound right to you?

Regardless, have to say, feels so smooth to drive, and much lighter in the hands too, a BIG improvement

Cheers
Ed
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:35 PM   #1477
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Hi Jilles.

I am going to race asphalt for the first time (and I only recently switched to Tamiya) this outdoor season. I have seen some of your setup sheets, but those were for high traction asphalt. I am going to race at a large outdoor track, with low grip. What setup would you recommend?

// Niklas Hansen
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:28 PM   #1478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luic View Post
Hello Jilles, thanks for all your help, i donīt run a Tamiya car, but i follow this post because is very helpfull, Ronald help too, in yokomo post, and anothers top drivers, this is good for the hobby.

I have a litle problem, i think this is indiferent for a brand of car, with my setup normally my car work very good with new tyres, but the performance going down a lot with used tyres, sometimes in the 2nd battery, do you have a tip, change in setup, ... for the performance going down less, or do you think need 2 diferents setups for new-used tyres.

Thanks, Luis C.
Luis, no problem! Good to see Ronald is also active at RCTECH, this is something more topdrivers should do, I agree.
Most of the time new tyres are faster then older tyres. You can't do much about this. Sure you can change your set-up for new and used tyres and also additives. But you need a lot of tyres to really test this.
But I can recommend a thinner additive for new tyres and thicker additive for used tyres. Thin additve such as FX2 and thick such as Tyre Tweak.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Hi Jilles,

Finally got to use my Sanwa handset today (it's been how many months since TITC!!), anyway, I have a question for you on how you set yours up.

I'm having to run 115% D/R (with EPA's at 100%R, 95%L) to get my desired amount of lock... does this sound right to you?

Regardless, have to say, feels so smooth to drive, and much lighter in the hands too, a BIG improvement

Cheers
Ed
Hi Ed, good to hear you finally changed! I run my D-Rate at max.150% and EPA about 95% to get full lock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
Hi Jilles.

I am going to race asphalt for the first time (and I only recently switched to Tamiya) this outdoor season. I have seen some of your setup sheets, but those were for high traction asphalt. I am going to race at a large outdoor track, with low grip. What setup would you recommend?

// Niklas Hansen
Niklas, I'm sure the set-ups you have from one of the TRF drivers will be good enough for starting set-up. The Worlds set-up is probably the best set-up which also works for 417. As the worlds was run on medium grip tyres this set-up will work at medium grip track as well.
Other things you can try to get more traction is stand-up the shock little more, softer springs and softer oil.

Jilles
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:36 PM   #1479
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Jilles,

What was the main advantage of shimming up the bulkheads 0.5mm on the 416? Did you also put an extra 0.5mm under the arm mounts when doing this?

Thanks
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:33 PM   #1480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
Luis, no problem! Good to see Ronald is also active at RCTECH, this is something more topdrivers should do, I agree.
Most of the time new tyres are faster then older tyres. You can't do much about this. Sure you can change your set-up for new and used tyres and also additives. But you need a lot of tyres to really test this.
But I can recommend a thinner additive for new tyres and thicker additive for used tyres. Thin additve such as FX2 and thick such as Tyre Tweak.



Hi Ed, good to hear you finally changed! I run my D-Rate at max.150% and EPA about 95% to get full lock.


Niklas, I'm sure the set-ups you have from one of the TRF drivers will be good enough for starting set-up. The Worlds set-up is probably the best set-up which also works for 417. As the worlds was run on medium grip tyres this set-up will work at medium grip track as well.
Other things you can try to get more traction is stand-up the shock little more, softer springs and softer oil.

Jilles
Thanks Jilles, I'll be turning it up the D/R next time then. A fair few locals say my cars always look like they understeer.. wonder if that's part the reason...
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:52 AM   #1481
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Old 04-27-2011, 02:39 PM   #1482
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Hi Jilles,

How are you ?

I would like to know what can we do if the tires are overheating ?
Harder shock oil ? Softer spring ?

Regards,
Manu
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:27 PM   #1483
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JGH,

Recently found a CRC setup for the worlds you used a Orion 3.5 but no rollout information..

Are you willing to share?
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:47 AM   #1484
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Hello Jilles.

I want to ask,how does rebound on the shocks effect the car?Should there be alot of rebound or only a little?
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:01 PM   #1485
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Is there a length you set your front and rear sway bar links ?
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