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Old 04-04-2011, 08:38 AM   #1456
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Hi Gilles

I am driving the Swiss Championship on a outdoor low grip, high speed track with three fast corners. My problem is i have a lot of traction and no on powersteering, but the car is cool to drive. My target is the podium
My set-up
TRF417 from Kit Set up
Droop front 6,2 rear 5.0
1mm Bump Steer
3.5 mm Roll Ce. Front link
1.0 mm Roll ce Rear under susp block
400 MM Oil front rear HPI Silver
Spec R Diff 400Tam Oil
Sorex 36 Kit
Tire Compount Rheinard 20min / 60Celsius
Mazda Speed
20g Front
4.0 T V3 Speedpassion
Spec R front Swing Shaft
Original Motor mount

My question
Top Deck cut front1, front2, rear ?
Motor mount cut ?
Split Blocks 1c 1b front ?
Blocks Rear 1xa 1d or 1x 1e ?
I need more front grip/traction out of the corners
What do you think, what can I do to incease the gripon my front?

Many Thank
Claudio
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"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors-417.jpg  

Last edited by Lion 24; 04-08-2011 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 04-04-2011, 12:51 PM   #1457
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Quote:
Killooli;
Normally with 1mm shim under the suspension blocks in the rear gives more rotation ( less traction ) more steering. We normally use always 0.5mm lower in front then rear. At the TITC I ran rear 0mm and front -.05 ( flipped the suspension blocks and use 2.5mm shims. This gave more stability and more easy drive.
Thank You Jilles for the Tip, I´ll try it in Andernach.

How long can you go down? -1,0 or -1,5 ???
Have you ever tried that?
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:54 AM   #1458
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Default Inner Camber Link Height

HI Jilles

Just interested in understanding what changing the inner camber link height does, at that end of the car;

1. raising/lowering the front inner camber link - keeping all other bits equal
2. raising/lowering the rear camber link - keeping all other bits equal

I plan to fiddle with these settings next time I get a test day, ie change the front from 4-6mm over a couple of runs, and the rear from 3-5mm over a couple of runs and see if i can tie my findings back to what you think they should be (note i realise these changes are extreme, but i'm not good enough to feel the difference of a 0.5mm change but plan to at least have the learning there so i can make a minor change if needed at a big meeting)


Thanks

Mark
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:14 AM   #1459
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To Jilles Groskamp

I was watching your video and I see you put the oring and then you put the shaft guide. And in the manual you put the guide and then the oring.
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:32 AM   #1460
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I think that Jilles and Marc should tag up and write a book for a chassie set up guide for the 416's and 417's. I'd buy one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonest View Post
Post on behalf of Jilles.

Jilles and Marc's setup during TITC 2011.

Enjoy.

- Please refer latest post.
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:43 PM   #1461
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Hi, can anyone recommend a shop that has some 46mm shafts in stock im having trouble finding any, also do any other manufactures swing shafts fit the 416
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:08 PM   #1462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwvrt View Post
Hi, can anyone recommend a shop that has some 46mm shafts in stock im having trouble finding any, also do any other manufactures swing shafts fit the 416


http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=274&id=1687
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:27 PM   #1463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
We not much run the rear diff in the high position. The only race we did was Euros 2009 Luxembourg to get more steering in the fast sweeper. Normally I feel I have better control and more rear traction with the diff low.
Jilles,
Is the theory the same for the front diff height too?

thx...
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:35 AM   #1464
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Default couple 417 setup questions

Got a couple setup questions for the 417 figured I ask you them all at once instead over a period of time !

Gear diffs , do you use any in the car and if so front , back , or both and what fluid weight in them and what did you notice ,

Suspension I'm using blue O-rings I read about you using two , do you use two in the 417 ? And if so you remove the plastic shaft guide and replace that with the second oring correct?

And one thing I notice for suspension blocks you usually run front front Omm spacer and front rear 0.5m spacer in the front what does this acheive cause this isn't kick up this is anti squat correct ? and also running front 0m 0m and rear 0.5 0.5 in the rear

And shock oil do you alway run the same amount all around or heavier in the front sometimes I haven't played with oil yet cause I'm not sure when to make it softer or harder maybe you can help with that

My setup is

Tamiya 417
I run 17.5T stock rubber

Anymore info I will post but I think that's all you need to know for the diff question

Thanks a lot can't wait to hear back with answers
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:46 PM   #1465
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- Transplantlife
TITC set-ups from Marc and me are really good set-ups for Asphalt.
You find them one page back.
Will check if I can find a FF03 set-up sheet and post my FF03 TITC asphalt set-up as soon as possible.

- Marcos J.
Thanks! Much appreciated!

- Phil
I know what you mean. I always have a compleet spool/geardiff with bearing and bearingholders so I don't have to remove them. It's really a pain to remove it and I really don't have a solution for this.

- Antoni
ESC set-up: Power Program 2 and dragbrake 3. FDR was 7.5
New Orion motor is a big improve then the previous one. Has better magnet therefor more power, runs cooler and better driveability. The fan was only for safety as it was quiet warm during TITC.
Good driving at TITC, keep it up!!

- Claudio
I recommend to try one of the TRF drivers set-up like TITC set-up of Marc and me. On power push you can reduce with this;
- Front drop, try 5.5mm
- higher position of camberlink
- Less punch, make speedo more smooth in bottom.
- 1C, 1C front blocks will be good.

You can try to get the motormount but I have been testing this lately and I can't really say it's better performance till now.
Hope this helps!

- Killooli
In the front you can go down to 2mm under the susp. block. But in the rear you can't flip the blocks as the belt is in it's way.

- Mark
This is the way to do it. I also make many time drastic changes to see what things really make different. Then you can decide for yourself what direction you want to go with your set-up. If you play a lot with this finally can feel 0.5mm shims differences.

- entitymugenmtx
True, the manual is different. I can't really say it's better or worse but in my opinion I have less leaking as the o-ring is more inside the shock.

- Redwings
Thanks for your comment. Maybe a new set-up video on redrc again?

- 2 Bad
I never really tested the front spool height. It's not so easy to flip as the bulkhead clamp needs to be cut little bit.

- Jon-b
Geardiff I normally use only in the rear with 1000W oil.
Ones I used the Geardiff in front during snowbirds with 300.000W in the front.
O-ring, builded exactly as you write. I prefer two o-rings.
Using same susp. shims you run either kick-up or anti-squat.
Some tracks I use anti-squat in front with 0mm and 0.5mm
Shock oil I normally run same front and rear.

Hope this helps.

Jilles
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:41 PM   #1466
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Thanks for the answers so fast !! I'm gonna try the gear diff this saturday at my local track there changing the layout so it should be a lot of fun and I'm gonna build my shocks with two Orings right now ,

Did you notice any performance inprovments with the gear diff in the rear or the front or just less maintnace
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:02 PM   #1467
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-Jon

Since the Worlds 2010 we found the geardiff performance is better then the ball diff in most conditions. The car has more steering using the geardiff in the rear. And the maintenance is must less then a balldiff!
Some track the geardiff in front also has slightly advantage over the spool, most of the time the spool is still the way to go!

Jilles
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:49 AM   #1468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
-Jon

Since the Worlds 2010 we found the geardiff performance is better then the ball diff in most conditions. The car has more steering using the geardiff in the rear. And the maintenance is must less then a balldiff!
Some track the geardiff in front also has slightly advantage over the spool, most of the time the spool is still the way to go!

Jilles
What is the reason for that? On power grip, something else? Any circumpstace U still use a ball diff?
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:40 AM   #1469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
- - Jon-b
Geardiff I normally use only in the rear with 1000W oil.
Ones I used the Geardiff in front during snowbirds with 300.000W in the front.
O-ring, builded exactly as you write. I prefer two o-rings.
Using same susp. shims you run either kick-up or anti-squat.
Some tracks I use anti-squat in front with 0mm and 0.5mm
Shock oil I normally run same front and rear.

Hope this helps.

Jilles
Hi Jilles, I understand, you use FF 0 mm and FR 0.5mm ?¿

Regards
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Old 04-20-2011, 05:45 PM   #1470
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Ok pefect !! Thank you very much that answered my question completly I'm gonna run it in the rear with 1000WT thanks again
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