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Old 04-09-2009, 01:18 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo View Post
Jilles,

-Which grease do you use for the driveshaft's joints?
-Do you always use the forward screw on the motor bulkhead?

Best regards,
Hugo
i think i can answer that.
1) none
2) not always, it promotes more flex in the front.... depending on track conditions.

Jilles,
i used your basic foam set up this weekend (thank you) and i thought the car went very well, since we run foam on asphalt i have also come up with some Flex solutions that i'm going to test this weekend. our issue is the over heating of the tyres here and so less flew will allow the tyre to run for longer in the traction temperature window. the racers in South Africa have some serious development going on at the mo...
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:30 AM   #122
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Hi Jilles, I just wanted to say my car was a WEAPON with the base asphalt setup you posted. Over the weekend I TQ'd a big event with just a couple small changes, but unfortunately I couldn't manage the win & finished 2nd - I dunno how you guys handle the pressure
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:08 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
This method from EA Motorsports works pretty good as well.

"The way I do it (and most others I have seen) is to take the shocks and tires off the car and turn the car upside down and let the arms fall (both should fall to the same location. Then push up on them one at a time and watch the opposite arm to see when it starts to move. Then switch and do the same for the other side. They should both lift at the same point when raising the opposite side. If not then adjust the length of the link.

EA"
A tweakboard or weightscales is very usefull. Just place the chassis on setup blocks and let the suspension without dampers (with setup wheels) hang on the scales or the tweakboard, in this way you will messure the tweak in the anti roll bar..

out of tweak:


after adjusting:
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:44 AM   #124
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Hi,

@Jilles:

The Rebound stroke on the setting sheet means:
Put the car on the setupboard (fully equipped (battery, motor ...). Push it down at the front and rear damper stay. Then measure the ground clearance (front/rear)! After that push the tires slightly (not excessivley to squeeze the inserts!) down and lift the front/rear damper stay untill the droop screws touch the chassis plate. Then measure the ground clearance again.
Now subtract (-> minus) the last value from your normal ground clearance and you will get the rebound stroke (should be normally in front between 0.5 and 1.5mm and on the rear about 1mm more than on the front).

It`s a very fast way to setup your droop (but not a exact way!). The only exact way is to set it up with a droop gauge and the normal way.
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:44 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagejyoung View Post
i think i can answer that.
1) none
2) not always, it promotes more flex in the front.... depending on track conditions.

Jilles,
i used your basic foam set up this weekend (thank you) and i thought the car went very well, since we run foam on asphalt i have also come up with some Flex solutions that i'm going to test this weekend. our issue is the over heating of the tyres here and so less flew will allow the tyre to run for longer in the traction temperature window. the racers in South Africa have some serious development going on at the mo...
Thank you for your input sagejyoung, but I'd like to have Jilles answer about these 2 points.

Regards,
Hugo
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:02 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
...
Chris,
Thanks! You are welcome!
I never use grease on the outdrive, I run them dry...

Jilles
He allready answerd it
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:25 AM   #127
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He allready answerd it

I don't speak about the outdrives, I mean the part between the bone and the wheel axle (joint+pin).

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Old 04-09-2009, 04:45 AM   #128
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:24 AM   #129
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Hello Jilles

thank you so much for starting this interesting tread

I've also got a few questions for you related to a little setup problem with my trf416we

The problem is that i've got to less steering especially in the middle-corner and out-corner. The rear is more or less stable. It also seems like the car "stands" in the corners

i hope you can find a solution for my issue (outdoor, asphalt)

Here is my actual setup

Madzaspeed
Sorex 36R with CS Tire-Max Grip heated to 60
No screw on the topdeck for steering

Front:
Blocks: C - C
Camper: 2
0,5mm Antidive
0,5mm wheel spacer
5mm height
Damper: 400er tamiya oil
white springs Tamiya
3-hole plates
2nd hole from inside on damper bridge

Rear:
Blocks: XA - E
Camber: 2
0,5mm Rollcenter
1mm wheel spacer
5,5mm height
Damper: 400er tamiya oil
blue springs Tamiya
3-hole plates
5th hole from inside on damper bridge

a lot of stuff but I hope you can help me

Felix

Last edited by Benn0; 04-09-2009 at 05:34 AM.
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:53 AM   #130
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kschu,
Right, the LRP is the same as the Nosram.

Hugo,
When using a "hot"motor like 4.5 or faster you should use the screw on the bulkhead. For stock you can try without screw to get little more flex.

Craigm,
Nice! You get them next time!

Roelof,
Great solution! I think most of the drivers will not invest in 4 weight scales!

Dai,
Thanks for the explanation!

Hugo,
I use Xenon blue grease for the pin and driveshafts.

Felix,
You can try a couple things:
- Raise the front shocks and lower the rear shocks
- Take out the anti-dive and go flat in front.
- Try thicker oil, 500-600.
- Outdoors we normally use HB springs as they make the car little bit more agressive

Jilles
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:25 AM   #131
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Jilles, how often do you replace the plastic front spool outdrive? I m replacing mine twice every race day, though it looks ok from the outside but after checking it seems like the pin of the CVD slip and creating a nasty scar. This happened even if i m not hitting anything. BTW I usually set my steering EPA to full steering lock to get more steering...could this be the problem? What do you think of upgrading it to a steel outdrive like the one made by TUNE UP R/C?

Which CVD do you use? the stock blue one or the black steel one when using spool? My last race I broke a new 42mm stock one during hard full lock left corner...and thats without hitting anything. Will using black steel one make it more durable?

Thanks.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:16 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Jilles, how often do you replace the plastic front spool outdrive? I m replacing mine twice every race day, though it looks ok from the outside but after checking it seems like the pin of the CVD slip and creating a nasty scar. This happened even if i m not hitting anything. BTW I usually set my steering EPA to full steering lock to get more steering...could this be the problem? What do you think of upgrading it to a steel outdrive like the one made by TUNE UP R/C?

Which CVD do you use? the stock blue one or the black steel one when using spool? My last race I broke a new 42mm stock one during hard full lock left corner...and thats without hitting anything. Will using black steel one make it more durable?

Thanks.
I used to have the same problem, I were using 44mm steel cvd till lately I changed to 46mm steel cvd..... so far so good....
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:52 AM   #133
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Jilles, when you build the diff, do you sand both side or the diff ring? or just 1 side? if just 1 side, which side do u sand down? Thanks
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:06 PM   #134
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Also, what process do you guys use to break in your diffs?
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:39 PM   #135
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Dameetz,
I have done many races with one set of outdrives. The 42mm is really too short, I use 44mm or even 46mm sometimes. I use only the blue alu shafts. I think it's not a problem with running full lock. For longer runs it's better to use steel.

Overgear,
I sand both sides of the diff plate with aprox. 800-1000 sandpaper.

Adam,
Most of the time I just run it in in the car, half power and hold one wheel, then the other wheel. Then tight the diff little more and do the same till it's tight enough. Aprox. 30 sec in total.

Jilles
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