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Old 09-20-2010, 10:04 AM   #1291
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"Master Jilles" (read that before and like it),

Could you explain a little more about the rebound.
In previous posts you mentioned
zero rebound for fast(outside) tracks
and 5 mm rebound for carpet tracks.

Also a 1 mm hole in the cap (in the plastic part?)

What are the effects of the rebound settings
and when and why choose 0 or 5mm.?
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:47 PM   #1292
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- Gerry,
I'm sure the TITC website is wrong. You should send Itaru an email.
Itaru is the Tamiya Distributor in Thailand, he was also in Manila.
TITC can't be fully booked already, as normally they allow more then 300+ racers.

- Drew!
Nice to hear from you man! How is it to be WC pitman?! I'm still really happy for you guys, you 100% deserved it. You gonna make it to the Snowbirds?
I'm again thinking of going, only need to ask my girlfriend first, haha!!

- Oscar
The rebound is all about experience.
At most races outdoors I run zero rebound, gives most traction.
Indoor however, I use little rebound about 5mm, don't ask me why, just feels better.
To achieve zero rebound I drill hole in the plastic cap, about 1mm.

Jilles
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Old 09-21-2010, 01:31 AM   #1293
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Jilles: yup, i will email him later. i dint get a chance to meet itaru while he was here ... you should have introduced me. but its ok, there's always time at the titc. saw the pics you posted ... can't wait to see everything finished. club race this Saturday for us! Gotta target 27 laps! hahaha still need to shave 6 seconds which is a lot! but i think its possible as long as its a clean consistent run. i need to set my motor gearing and esc up better so i don't fade down the end of the run. im using to much boost i think. lets see how that goes!
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Old 09-21-2010, 01:40 AM   #1294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
- Gerry,
I'm sure the TITC website is wrong. You should send Itaru an email.
Itaru is the Tamiya Distributor in Thailand, he was also in Manila.
TITC can't be fully booked already, as normally they allow more then 300+ racers.

- Drew!
Nice to hear from you man! How is it to be WC pitman?! I'm still really happy for you guys, you 100% deserved it. You gonna make it to the Snowbirds?
I'm again thinking of going, only need to ask my girlfriend first, haha!!

- Oscar
The rebound is all about experience.
At most races outdoors I run zero rebound, gives most traction.
Indoor however, I use little rebound about 5mm, don't ask me why, just feels better.
To achieve zero rebound I drill hole in the plastic cap, about 1mm.

Jilles
That is just a leftover from last years website for TITC. No doubt Itaru will delete it later
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Old 09-21-2010, 06:58 AM   #1295
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Hi Jilles,

i search more steering for my X

I go in the rear of my Car on 1X/1E = 2.5

What is with Droop, at the moment i have:

Front 6
Rear 5

That is what all Drive, what is the Different about more and less Droop?
and what is when i Drive Xenon, Sorex ,LRP Tires, they have different diameters.

Excuse me for my bad English
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Old 09-21-2010, 08:27 AM   #1296
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Hi Jilles

You metioned in a previous post that you wouldnt change your car for 10.5 but what would you look at changing for 17.5
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Old 09-21-2010, 08:45 AM   #1297
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What I'm doing for 17.5 compared to 4.5 is just using 2 clicks softer springs all around and car is perfect again
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:36 PM   #1298
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Jilles,
I have just started using the new Team orion 2010 motors.
I have jumped over from speedpassion v3 motors.
I have found them to be a bit of a different beast and they seem to have more torque. I am currently chasing the same lap times that I was getting with the V3 motors and i am around 0.3 off with the same consistancy. The orions seem to be running a bit hotter though.
Do you have any suggestions on motor timing and also gearing? A tough ask i know. I run stock pro stock and modified. so generally are you able to tell me what the Base timing is on the orions at 0degree can timing and whether you have found that these motors like a bit more gearing, ie lower roll out.
For the Spec motors I am running an Tekin Rs and for the mod motors I am using a sxx tc sepc V2.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 09-22-2010, 05:42 AM   #1299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonest View Post
Hi Jilles,

Glad to hear that Frank is recovering...

Just check with you, what's your setting using the latest Nosram / LRP speedo (SXX v2) for 4.0t and 4.5t motors? Is there any difference between Much More shock oil and Tamiya's VG shock oil?

Thanks and hope to see you at TITC 2011.
Intersting to know about SXX ver2 curios about the + point.im like interested to go TITC!!!!
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:27 AM   #1300
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Jilles,
I have just started using the new Team orion 2010 motors.
I have jumped over from speedpassion v3 motors.
I have found them to be a bit of a different beast and they seem to have more torque. I am currently chasing the same lap times that I was getting with the V3 motors and i am around 0.3 off with the same consistancy. The orions seem to be running a bit hotter though.
Do you have any suggestions on motor timing and also gearing? A tough ask i know. I run stock pro stock and modified. so generally are you able to tell me what the Base timing is on the orions at 0degree can timing and whether you have found that these motors like a bit more gearing, ie lower roll out.
For the Spec motors I am running an Tekin Rs and for the mod motors I am using a sxx tc sepc V2.
Any help would be appreciated.
Remove the two cardboard plates at each bearing side. This will lower temperatures.
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:46 AM   #1301
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Jilles

Things are good here hope the same for you. Thanks alot it was a great race.

Snowbirds Ill be there for sure. Hope to see you there.

Thanks Drew
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Old 09-22-2010, 07:36 AM   #1302
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Really, they look like they are insulating the motor can from the windings?


Quote:
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Remove the two cardboard plates at each bearing side. This will lower temperatures.
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:11 AM   #1303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHICO1977 View Post
Intersting to know about SXX ver2 curios about the + point.im like interested to go TITC!!!!
that is definitely last years entry list as I have not entered this years YET
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:27 AM   #1304
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Hi, Jilles

I'm using the LRP tyre conditioner for my indoor season. I follow the instruction to wait/clean the conditioner before the race. But there is a problem that the tyre grip is not improved evidently on my new tyre. Only get the high grip on my old tyre which have raced 3 legs.

Is it normal? Or I take the wrong method to use the conditioner.....Would you please help me? Thank you.

BTW, what is the performance difference between the single and twin crank steering system. More and more cars use the latter one...

Thanks and Best Regards
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:51 PM   #1305
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- Gerry
Let's see what happens with the new track. In Thailand they can finish things very fast if everything is there. But I really hope the TITC will be there as it will be more challenging track then RC Addict ("highway")!
You should be able to make the 27 laps, your car was fast enough, little more consistant and not too many backmarkers, haha! Good luck saterday and let me know how things went!

- kiloolli
You need to give me more info about set-up. If you need more steering, try 1C/1C in front and X/1E is oke, but you can try even less rear toe-in like 1D.
Downstop number 6 front 5 rear must work fine. If you drive less downstop more droop example 5 and 4, the car can roll more, easier to drive but less cornerspeed.

- Sennaracing
With 17.5T I suggest to go one step harder spring for better cornerspeed.
This is the opposite nnick suggest but it's maybe personal preference.

- xray009act
This is a link from the orion website about all different armatures:

http://www.teamorion.com/Products/Vo...2010+Armatures

Here you find what armatures does what.
In general I use the standard armature (12.5) with 5mm inside.
This gives best power and feeling.
The motors runs little hotter then speedpassion as the gap between armature and motorcan is smaller.

For RC Addict track ( this years TITC ) I use a 4.5T with 12.5mm/5mm rotor with 3 mm timing. Gearing is 7.1 Power program 5 for "old" version 1 Tamiya Volac. Motor runs 85 degree.
Stock class 11.5T, I use same armature, 4mm timing gearing 4.8 with LRP stockspec, boost/timing 8, motor runs not more then 95 degree.
One suggestion is: when the motor runs hot, go lower gear and go up with timing on speedcontroller.

- Chico1977
+ point of the version2 is that it is smoother to drive and even with 3.5T motor, then motor either speedo will not overheat!
TITC is one of the coolest races and I think 2011 have a lot of World class drivers.

- Govert
Good point Govert, this helps the temp go down!

- Drew
Nice you set-up the RCAmerica thread, good one!
I think 90% sure I will go to Snowbirds now.

- xray009act
This is only protection but it works better without the plastic/paper

-srw_g
This problem we noticed at the last LRP masters race that new tyres didn't work as good as old ones. Actually many drivers run-in their tyres before qualification started. For LRP additive I suggest to use 30min rear and 10 min front and at all times keep the tyres wet, apply more additive when it dry up.
I quess the double steering bridge has proven te be faster as it has better ackermann position which has a lot to do with the handling of the car.

Jilles
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