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Old 04-20-2010, 01:12 AM   #1021
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Default Poor traction on concrete

Hi Jilles

I will be racing my 416 on a temporary concrete surface track with very poor traction.

I am using the standard set up from the user manual, which worked well on high traction asphalt.

Could you recommend a set up please (camber, droop, shock oil, springs etc)? And which Tamiya tire works well on a dusty concrete surface?


Thanks
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Old 04-21-2010, 05:56 AM   #1022
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Hi Jilles

I believe I'm right in thinking you're still running KO radio gear??

I'm after a new servo for my 416 - most probably a low profile type. What do you use, and what would you recommend?

Thanks
Oli
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:37 PM   #1023
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Hello Mr Jilles, you have PM. Thank you very much.
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:11 AM   #1024
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Joel - Normally I never run drag brake running stock motors. It will heat up the motor more and stock motors have already a lot of drag brake itself.
I have tested the mini with long wheelbase back to back with medium and I find on most conditions the medium wheelbase is the faster one.

Vadersing - I recommend the following changes to change while running on low grip surface.
- Camber, little less, 1 degree
- Kick up rear, this helps on power traction, 1mm/0mm
- less droop, more uptravel, try 5mm/4mm
- more toe-in
- 30W shock oil, with soft springs

For tyres I recommend soft type such as Sorex 24R, Pit Shimizu wet tyres.
From Tamiya you even can try the rally tyres from the DB03R.
Also use soft sponge inserts instead of molded inserts.

Oli- Yes, I use KO radio gear. I have been using the 2367 KO servo for a long time in my TC. I like the 2367 as it is strong and powerfull. The 2413 low profile is a good option, but I feel with 2367 I have more consistant steering.

Jilles
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:27 AM   #1025
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Jilles,

How different will you setup your car if you are to run stock, say 11.5 compared to modified.

Springs, shock oil, roll center, downstop etc.

Thank you.
CLK

P.S. Hope you are fine at Bangkok, looking at the news, situation is not getting any better. though the media tend to sensationalise issues.
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:05 AM   #1026
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Hi Jilles,

I watched your pro tips on youtube, and I have a question. I see that you use sticky Tamiya Hard grease between diff outdrive and the diff plates, but that grease is hard to find. I already have tamiya AW grease, which is also very sticky, so can I use that grease there?

Thanks
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Old 04-22-2010, 09:19 AM   #1027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post

Oli- Yes, I use KO radio gear. I have been using the 2367 KO servo for a long time in my TC. I like the 2367 as it is strong and powerfull. The 2413 low profile is a good option, but I feel with 2367 I have more consistant steering.

Jilles
Hi. Have U tried the alu casing or is it to rigid/heavy?

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Old 04-22-2010, 12:09 PM   #1028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
Oli- Yes, I use KO radio gear. I have been using the 2367 KO servo for a long time in my TC. I like the 2367 as it is strong and powerfull. The 2413 low profile is a good option, but I feel with 2367 I have more consistant steering.

Jilles
Cheers for the info. I've had a (?)2343 for about 4 years now with no issues, so hence me wanting to stick with KO.

Oli
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Old 04-22-2010, 02:38 PM   #1029
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Hi Jilles, I have a WE. I see some have flipped the belts to move electronics more to centerline. Should I do this? If so, ball diff located higher to clear the chassis? Have you tried a gear diff in the rear? Thanks again.
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:06 PM   #1030
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Hi Jilles . My local track isnt allowing tire sauce . how would you change your setup to compensate from being able to run additive, to not being able . This is on asphalt sprayed with soda . Thanks .
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Old 04-23-2010, 07:03 PM   #1031
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Hello Mr Jilles, please check your inbox for another pm.. Thanks
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Old 04-25-2010, 08:22 PM   #1032
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Jilles, I have a question:

Im very happy with the way my car is handling, it does have a slight understeer, but it makes the car consistent in the low to medium grip parking lot we race in. The problem I have is that the car is wearing a "death ring" (ie heavy wear on the inside bead of the tire) on the left front tire. Other guys running the same tires dont have this same problem. Anything you would suggest changing? If it was a bgi race I wouldnt care, but since its just club racing id like to get more than 1 weekend out of a set of tires My setup is attached below

Thanks
Attached Files
File Type: pdf GB_4_24.pdf (116.1 KB, 166 views)
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:07 PM   #1033
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Thanks for the tips, Jilles.

What do you mean by 'kick up rear'?


Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
Vadersing - I recommend the following changes to change while running on low grip surface.
- Camber, little less, 1 degree
- Kick up rear, this helps on power traction, 1mm/0mm
- less droop, more uptravel, try 5mm/4mm
- more toe-in
- 30W shock oil, with soft springs

For tyres I recommend soft type such as Sorex 24R, Pit Shimizu wet tyres.
From Tamiya you even can try the rally tyres from the DB03R.
Also use soft sponge inserts instead of molded inserts.

Jilles
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Old 04-26-2010, 03:30 PM   #1034
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Hello Jilles
Enrico Cardani from Italy and I want some info to get a better setup in my/our 416x.
So, when I ran indoors, and copying your setup, everything went well; now in our Racing Club in Milan when Solaris tires are imposed (before with medium insert and hard now) we have a lots of troubles.
Here my/our problems:
The track has an asphalt abrasive, not smooth without bumpy with medium/low grip surface; the category is powered by 10.5.
The cars use much internal tire (front and rear) and after 4/5 rounds are destroyed; the car have a lots of slipping; sometimes seems to drive on ice.
The guys that use the same setup with LRP or Novak 10.5 motor and a body similar to LTCR Protoform have a good balance, other with same setup and Mazda 6 or Mazda 6 Speed Protoform powered by SpeedPassion V3 10.5 or Lipotek 10.5 have many troubles.
I send two setups:
The first setup itís relative at the race start; the second at the end race without better balance.
Can you give us some Help?
Attached Thumbnails
"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors-vedano-2a-.jpg   "Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors-vedano-2b-.jpg  
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Old 04-26-2010, 04:32 PM   #1035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vadersing View Post
What do you mean by 'kick up rear'?
also known as antisquat. The spacings he refers to (1mm/0mm) are the numbers of spacers to add under the rear suspension blocks
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