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"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors

"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors

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Old 10-28-2009, 10:05 AM
  #676  
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Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
Hey BB

I can move some secret curtains

Last weekend we had Rebellion Race 2009 here in Finland. That event was EC warm up race and we use first time those Xenon tires.

I can tell you at many racers were trouble with traction roll at the beginning of the free practice.

I talked with Marc R and he told at it was hard to make car work good, but one thing was good idea to cut the top deck because it made car easier to drive

So, our local TRF team test that also and it work and everyone was pleased with that.

I visit Marc and Victor`s pit and notice at they bougth drive "old" WE versions. Victor use regular top deck (no cut version) and he has some troubles with car at some heats..

Some notice with those Xenon tires. There are slightly heavier than Sorex and wheel offset is different which caused that traction roll issues

that CA glued the side wall of the front tyres help.....

Results you can read RedRC
Please, can you tell us how to cut the top deck ?
Better if it's supported with a picture.

Is happen only with some rubber brands tyre?

Thanks
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:03 PM
  #677  
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Hey lynx

Couple pics from event

Marc car... you can see those cut places front and rear on topdeck



Viktor`s car

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Old 10-28-2009, 03:20 PM
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Hello Cruisaaja,

many thanks, excellent and clear pics

How was your race?
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:59 PM
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Tires at Rebellion Race were Xenon 28, as ETS were 32, iīm not sure but I think that the insert/wheel compo was the same. The tire is a bit larger in diameter and has really high sidewalls and the insert is really small for the tire, so a lot of air gap inside. Those two together made the tire feel like you were running flat tires on 1:1 car. Car just floated above the tire.

Shicanes were difficult as first the tire changed the side it was leaning and then the suspension compressed to that direction and then you needed to get the tire lean on the other side and the car also, so it was really easy to roll or get loose in shicanes as the car didnīt react at first and then it make a huge move to the other side. Car needed to have basicly zero weight transfer from side to side to make it driveble, so the tire would be the only thing that moves in shicanes. I ended up with about 7 and 6,5 droops and ultimate 60 oil to get it more planted. Also LTC-R was the body to use as it reacted faster and it was a bit more stable to drive. I only had C-C XA-E blocks, but i think D-D X-F would have been a lot better...

Cut top deck made a huge different in how the car handled, before cutting the car was really "edgy" and didnīt go smoothly round the corners and it was really easy to roll over from corner dots, but after cutting it was soooo smooth and easy to drive round corners and you could also drive over some corner dots. Seems odd to add more flex and grip when cars are traction rolling a lot, but it worked great.

I wish we could practice more in big tracks with high grip here, as there was a lot of stuff to test and so few practice heats to do it.
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:43 PM
  #680  
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What ratio and motors people use?
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:04 PM
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Hello Jilles,

Just wondering what motor, timing and gearing you ran at the Thai nationals?

Did you make any changes to your set up for running Li-Po?
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:31 AM
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Im trying to build my shocks to have no rebound and I watched the clips on youtube when Jilles is building he shocks and I cant get them to not rebound?
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Old 10-29-2009, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
Im trying to build my shocks to have no rebound and I watched the clips on youtube when Jilles is building he shocks and I cant get them to not rebound?
Drill a 1mm hole in the top of the plastic shock cap that will kill most of the rebound...
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Old 10-29-2009, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
Im trying to build my shocks to have no rebound and I watched the clips on youtube when Jilles is building he shocks and I cant get them to not rebound?
The first part is to assemble them with the piston pushed to the top, as opposed to the bottom (as shown in the Tamiya instruction manual).

This gets very close to no rebound, and has worked for me, but the other trick is to put a small hole in the cap that holds the bladder in, so the air can escape. I suggest you do this before assembling it, so you don't accidentally puncture the bladder.

It probably doesn't need saying, but with my driving skills and the (lack of) speed I carry, I'm a long way from noticing the difference

I found that the changes in roll centre (as per the posted setup sheets) were much more noticeable and gave me significant more turn in and overall responsiveness.
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
Hey lynx

Couple pics from event

Marc car... you can see those cut places front and rear on topdeck
Which area is the cut?
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
Hey lynx

Couple pics from event

Marc car... you can see those cut places front and rear on topdeck



Viktor`s car

Hehe, why is it, the more I look at Marc's car, the more I'm convinced he wasn't running it at 1350g... with all that lead on the chassis, and loads on the cells, there's no chance I count 95g odd of weight...

Viktor's looks more believable, looks like only 30g, which given I've got 20g on mine at that limit, I can believe
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:22 PM
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Weight limit was 1400g
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:27 PM
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I've never run a lightweight body, how much of a weight difference is there? Anyone weigh them vs regular bodies?
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Stilo View Post
Weight limit was 1400g
ahhh.. gotcha. Still think Marc was running overweight at the ETS though
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
I've never run a lightweight body, how much of a weight difference is there? Anyone weigh them vs regular bodies?
about 15 - 20gr
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