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Old 04-27-2009, 01:43 PM   #196
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My question on the 4mm and 3mm shims on the rear camber link. In your post above you say you like to keep the rear camber link level which I understand. Can the same thing be accomplished with 1mm and 0mm shims on the rear camber link?

My concern with a lot of shim is durability.

Ed, you might want to "chime in" on this one.

Thanks
I've not had an issue with the ball joint durability at all. Just make sure you use the correct length ball joints with them. I prefer the 8mm long on the hub, whilst it depend on the number of shims on the inner joint. Any less than 3mm of shims (so 2.5mm and less), I'll go to a 5mm long ball joint, otherwise you'll start to hit the outdrive. However, over 3mm, and it's 8mm all the way

As for the extra spacing... whilst the links will remain the same angle, so similar camber change, you'll also get a lower rear roll centre buy running more shims. David Spashett was the one who pointed this out to me a long time ago when running the 415, it helped to smooth out the rear of the car a lot, making it much easier to drive... same holds true on the 416 as well

Oh, if you want to see the affect on the roll centre change, have a little play with it on the roll centre calculator I drew up for the car. Useful to see the differences the individual changes make

http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php...145&p=684#p684

HiH
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:21 PM   #197
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hi jilles,

Could you recomend some changes to your 2009 lrp set up if the car had too much corner exit steering? the car enters the corner well but wants to loose the rear end mid corner and corner exit. I do race on a low traction carpet track. It is also a bit loose on high speed corners?, i have already taken the dive out of the front and its better but its still a bit wild!
Cheers

Last edited by Green Speed; 05-02-2009 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:53 PM   #198
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I've not had an issue with the ball joint durability at all. Just make sure you use the correct length ball joints with them. I prefer the 8mm long on the hub, whilst it depend on the number of shims on the inner joint. Any less than 3mm of shims (so 2.5mm and less), I'll go to a 5mm long ball joint, otherwise you'll start to hit the outdrive. However, over 3mm, and it's 8mm all the way

As for the extra spacing... whilst the links will remain the same angle, so similar camber change, you'll also get a lower rear roll centre buy running more shims. David Spashett was the one who pointed this out to me a long time ago when running the 415, it helped to smooth out the rear of the car a lot, making it much easier to drive... same holds true on the 416 as well

Oh, if you want to see the affect on the roll centre change, have a little play with it on the roll centre calculator I drew up for the car. Useful to see the differences the individual changes make

http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php...145&p=684#p684

HiH
Ed
Thanks for you reply Ed.

1) I guess I am cluleless on ball studs, could you give me the P/Ns for the long ball studs please? I assume they are steel.

2) I ran your roll center calculater for the rear of the 416 with default values and just changed the camber link shims. With 1mm / 0mm shims I got RC -5.69mm. With 4mm / 3mm shims I got RC - 5.86.

Assuming I got the right numbers in the right places that does not seem like much of a change. Am I missing someting?

Thanks
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Old 04-27-2009, 03:16 PM   #199
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Thanks for you reply Ed.

1) I guess I am cluleless on ball studs, could you give me the P/Ns for the long ball studs please? I assume they are steel.

2) I ran your roll center calculater for the rear of the 416 with default values and just changed the camber link shims. With 1mm / 0mm shims I got RC -5.69mm. With 4mm / 3mm shims I got RC - 5.86.

Assuming I got the right numbers in the right places that does not seem like much of a change. Am I missing someting?

Thanks
Hey Bob,

for 1) look for TAM53907 for the 8mm and TAM53906 for the 5mm. They are both aluminium, and come in packs of 5. You can get steel ones as well I believe, but I don't have the part numbers to hand.

As for 2) Your correct, it's not much of a change, but it's still a change It equates, very roughly, to the same change as raising the inner link 0.5mm. However, you still keep the link angle
I'm sure there's other things going on with it as well, more than I can explain/get my head round, but it does work

HiH
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Last edited by TryHard; 04-27-2009 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:32 PM   #200
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TAM53969 = Steel 5x8 ball heads
TAM53968 = Steel 5x5 ball heads

They work like a champ in place of the aluminum bits.
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Old 04-27-2009, 07:22 PM   #201
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Thanks Ed

Thanks Adam

Ball studs on order

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Last edited by Fastforward; 04-27-2009 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:10 PM   #202
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I never change my ceramic ball, use them for 1 year already, I only change the plates every rebuild and thrust bearing.
Jilles,

How do you feel about the ceramic thrust bearings?
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:25 PM   #203
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Hi Jilles,

You mentioned you rebuild shocks every race meet. Just wondering how often you replace other suspension bits like arms, ball studs, ball cups, etc?

Cheers,

Vincent
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:30 AM   #204
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Hi All,
I just wanted to say thanks the great information everyone (especially Jilles) has posted in this thread. A worthy read from one end to the other...

Most frustrating though the TRF416WE is not being supported by the Local hobby industry in Australia... I have also had a tough time sourcing a car from internet based stores. Can anyone point me in the direction of an online store which may have the kits in stock?

Many Thanks,
Jordan
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:38 AM   #205
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Try Champ. They found me one But I didn't take it... sorry
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Old 04-29-2009, 11:32 AM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanC View Post
Hi All,
I just wanted to say thanks the great information everyone (especially Jilles) has posted in this thread. A worthy read from one end to the other...

Most frustrating though the TRF416WE is not being supported by the Local hobby industry in Australia... I have also had a tough time sourcing a car from internet based stores. Can anyone point me in the direction of an online store which may have the kits in stock?

Many Thanks,
Jordan
What would you need? We could get stuffs and send it over...
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Old 04-29-2009, 06:26 PM   #207
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TAM53969 = Steel 5x8 ball heads
TAM53968 = Steel 5x5 ball heads

They work like a champ in place of the aluminum bits.
Do the steel ones have the lowered ball height like the aluminum ones?
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:13 PM   #208
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bump
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Old 05-03-2009, 01:31 PM   #209
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Green speed,
You might try running D-D blocks in front,
this makes the car more smooth and less aggressive.
1.4mm swaybar in the rear to test.

Syndr0me,
I just use the standard Tamiya thrust bearing, don't replace them often and the diff runs fine. I have no experience with Ceramic thrust bearing but it might work.

Vincent,
Arms and other plastic parts I change after some months or for a big race. As well as ball cups, suspension ball.

Jordan,
Thanks for your comment! I think there are some online shops who can help you out.

Jilles
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Old 05-03-2009, 03:58 PM   #210
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Thanks for the reply will try out the d blocks friday and test the rear roll bar!
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