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Old 04-21-2009, 10:54 PM   #181
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Hello Jilles,

I still use the original 416 two piece upper deck and the old bottom deck with the battery pushed to the rear. Is your basic rubber set up meant for the WE?

Thank you,
Ken
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Old 04-22-2009, 02:21 AM   #182
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Hello Jilles,

I still use the original 416 two piece upper deck and the old bottom deck with the battery pushed to the rear. Is your basic rubber set up meant for the WE?

Thank you,
Ken
It should work fine. I'm running the old lower deck with the 1pc upper and it works great, and there isn't a huge difference between the 2pc and 1pc decks
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:10 AM   #183
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Hello Jilles,

I replaced TRF 416 Shock O-ring to Tamiya Competition O-ring(BLUE)

Because TRF 416 Normal O-ring was too thick.

But I found that Shock oil Leak Problem when i used Competition O-ring.

and i experienced same problem when i user much-more perfect silicone 40 O-ring.


1. What kind of Shock O-ring you use?

2. Do you use Shock Clearance shim to avoid oil leak?

or Do you Always Check Shock Leak per Every race and refill shock or rebuild shock?


Thanks,

Bander.
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:48 AM   #184
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hi jilles,,


i got my friend asking me, what are the major different between 416 and 416WE??

a few major point will do...thanks
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:10 AM   #185
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hi jilles,,


i got my friend asking me, what are the major different between 416 and 416WE??

a few major point will do...thanks
WE has:
- Battery slots moved forward
- Short reversible suspension arms
- HL Damper cylinders
- Teflon sealed bearings
- 1 piece upper deck
- Revised motor mount & brace
- Larger front bumper
- No air scoop
- Different suspension blocks (for short arms)
- Different length drive shafts (for short arms)
- Low profile serrated wheel nuts
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:48 PM   #186
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Hello Paul,

Good to hear!
For better reaction you can try softer oil or little harder springs.

Let me know how these changes helped?

Jilles
Hi Jilles

Well, just got back from racing and the lighter shock oil was definately better. I went too far at first (from 450 to 300!) but then went back to 400 and just this small change made a difference to the chicane transition. Wanted to try a set of milk blue white and blue springs as I believe they are slightly harder than the standard white and blues??? but didn't get chance.
It was very warm this evening and lap times had dropped for most people from last week.

What sorts of changes do you make when going from cold to hot conditions? Just tyres?

Will hopefully get some more practice in this weekend to try the springs out.
Thanks for all your help so far,

Paul
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:57 PM   #187
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Hi Jilles

Well, just got back from racing and the lighter shock oil was definately better. I went too far at first (from 450 to 300!) but then went back to 400 and just this small change made a difference to the chicane transition. Wanted to try a set of milk blue white and blue springs as I believe they are slightly harder than the standard white and blues??? but didn't get chance.
It was very warm this evening and lap times had dropped for most people from last week.

What sorts of changes do you make when going from cold to hot conditions? Just tyres?

Will hopefully get some more practice in this weekend to try the springs out.
Thanks for all your help so far,

Paul
Hey Paul,
Only the white is harder on the milky blue / white set, as it has less coils. Rating (measured by Ling Tong aka 'linger') is 15.27lb for the original white, and 17.05 for the milky/white white.
The blues are still the same though.

HiH
Ed
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Old 04-24-2009, 02:04 AM   #188
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Hi Jil,
just a reminder of a testing session with 6 TRF guys at one table.......

btw, however it seams nice to drive with Jilles, it's NOT! we are driving LiPo's and he was whooping our a** with 5 cell.
And now on the topic, I have a question.....every now and then I have this burning sensation between my toes, how do I fix that....hahahahahahaha
See you soon.
Z
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:29 AM   #189
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What sorts of changes do you make when going from cold to hot conditions? Just tyres?
May I add on to your question mutley001?

Jilles,

For races with controlled tires, what do you change from morning heats, to the high noon and evening. e.g. at TITC and the worlds?

Thanks!
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:28 AM   #190
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Hi Jil,
just a reminder of a testing session with 6 TRF guys at one table.......

btw, however it seams nice to drive with Jilles, it's NOT! we are driving LiPo's and he was whooping our a** with 5 cell.
And now on the topic, I have a question.....every now and then I have this burning sensation between my toes, how do I fix that....hahahahahahaha
See you soon.
Z
man, they should give you guys chairs
or just so everyone happenes to be standing up? Happens to me when I get excited or in a hurry.
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Old 04-25-2009, 01:31 AM   #191
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Hey Paul,
Only the white is harder on the milky blue / white set, as it has less coils. Rating (measured by Ling Tong aka 'linger') is 15.27lb for the original white, and 17.05 for the milky/white white.
The blues are still the same though.

HiH
Ed
Cheers Ed. Any suggestions if I wanted to go slightly harder all round then?
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:41 AM   #192
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Cheers Ed. Any suggestions if I wanted to go slightly harder all round then?
Well, original whites are 15.3, original blues 14.1... so for a slight increase all round, try HPI Pinks/Silvers, or Gold/Silver for a bit more

HiH
Ed
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Old 04-26-2009, 08:18 AM   #193
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Well, original whites are 15.3, original blues 14.1... so for a slight increase all round, try HPI Pinks/Silvers, or Gold/Silver for a bit more

HiH
Ed

Today tested with HPI Silver all round and it certainly works great!!!
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:21 AM   #194
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Chris,
The diff pulli is on both side the same. The ceramic diff balls where from HPI, I got them when we were testing in Thailand for the worlds.
I make the shocks always with one o-ring and with the plastic shim, don't use any other grease. I just rebuild the shocks ones in a while.

Fastforward,
I always run the camber link pretty much level, this keeps the rear more stable entry and exit the corner. Should work the same on the TA-05.

Ken,
One or two piece topdeck is very similair. Sometimes I use the two piece topdeck to make the car more stiff, for more rotation in the corner.

Bander,
As I explain to Chris, I use Much More blue o-ring with the standard TRF shock shim. I rebuild the shock ones every race or practise because a shock always have some leak.

Edwintklee,
The biggest difference from the 416 and the 416WE is the chassis, and the WE version comes standard with short arm and spool which is 99% used.

Paul,
Nice to hear you improve the car.
From cold to warm weather the only thing I normally change is shock oil. The warmer it gets the harder shock oil I use. Most races are control tyres anyway but if you have the choice of tyres always go as hard as possible when it gets more hot.

Z,
Nice picture! It was great fun racing with you guys and trying to keep up with the Lipo speeds! Man, those cars are so fast on the straight!
See you soon!

Jilles
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:11 AM   #195
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Default Rear camber link

My question on the 4mm and 3mm shims on the rear camber link. In your post above you say you like to keep the rear camber link level which I understand. Can the same thing be accomplished with 1mm and 0mm shims on the rear camber link?

My concern with a lot of shim is durability.

Ed, you might want to "chime in" on this one.

Thanks
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