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Old 04-17-2009, 12:59 PM   #166
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Paul,
You can try to stood up the rear shock one more. Or go little softer oil in rear, maybe 400. Try 1.4mm rear swaybar. I think Viktor used this swaybar at the LRP in the rear and he said it felt more stable.
Thanks Jilles, will give it a try this weekend at practice.

Paul
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Old 04-18-2009, 11:37 AM   #167
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Hi Jilles

Ok testing today went well, car was much more stable with the wheel base changed that i didn't need to try the stiffer rear roll bar.
My next issue is transition through chicanes, its far too lazy nowand need to get it to change direction quicker, i thought the rear roll bar change would help this too, but is there something better to try ?

Cheers for your help so far

Paul
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Old 04-18-2009, 01:29 PM   #168
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Hello Paul,

Good to hear!
For better reaction you can try softer oil or little harder springs.

Let me know how these changes helped?

Jilles
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Old 04-18-2009, 11:30 PM   #169
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Jilles,

Thank you for starting this thread. I haven't posted any questions to ask you, but the information you have provided has greatly helped me to tune both my TRF416 and my TA05MS.

Ken
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Old 04-19-2009, 02:38 AM   #170
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Hello Paul,

Good to hear!
For better reaction you can try softer oil or little harder springs.

Let me know how these changes helped?

Jilles
Will do, my next race in Thursday evening so will post an update after that including anything else I've tried!

Cheers again

Paul
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Old 04-19-2009, 12:33 PM   #171
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hi Jilles

Wow this thread has really taken off!
Another few questions for you if you would be so kind!

How do you normally set your diff tension? how do you check for slip and how much do you aim for?
My local club is pretty small on low-medium bite carpet, the tires are normally vtec 27s(control tire) and tend to squeal alot! do you have a set up you would recomend starting on? my car did not feel very direct and was a bit loose corner exit?
I have also noticed you tend to run a 3mm shim on the outside of the camber link and 4mm on the inside is this to make more camber change?

Thanks in advance

Last edited by Green Speed; 04-19-2009 at 12:54 PM. Reason: oops
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Old 04-19-2009, 02:50 PM   #172
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Hi Jilles,

what is the trick to perfectly rebuild the diff? How do you do it? would be nice if you could describe the single steps
do you always sand the diff plates?

How often do you change diff plates / balls ( x runs, x mm diameters?)

thanks!!
Felix
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Old 04-19-2009, 07:18 PM   #173
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Alamakk... Kawan dah cakap orang putih dah...
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Old 04-20-2009, 03:45 AM   #174
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Hi Jilles,

what is the trick to perfectly rebuild the diff? How do you do it? would be nice if you could describe the single steps
do you always sand the diff plates?

How often do you change diff plates / balls ( x runs, x mm diameters?)

thanks!!
Felix
2nd'ed. Now that was a good question.

Ben
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Old 04-20-2009, 04:04 AM   #175
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Jilles,

thanks for a great thread with lots of nice tips!
as i am running lipo now with modified i am getting a bit lost in looking up data for FDR ratios. at your club in heemstede at what FDR are people successfully running modified with lipo now with what motors?
would like to hear it to get a more complete picture of running dutch big tracks.

how would you compare Bangkok to dutch tracks? as most data I was able to collect was from this track.

regards,

Tom
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:42 PM   #176
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Hi Jilles,

A little off-topic (TRF 511): Do you use two o-rings in the TRF off-road dampers or the low friction set with just one o-ring?

How did the car go yesterday?

Chris
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Old 04-21-2009, 01:41 PM   #177
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hi Jilles, i know you dont run 10.5t but im in the market for a new brushless
speedo for 10.5 racing, i know you use the sxx i wondered if this would be the choice for 10.5 or should i go with the spx? ive also considered the speeed passion gt pro2, i just wondered if you could suggest the best esc for my racing in 10.5t.
many thanks
mark
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Old 04-21-2009, 02:23 PM   #178
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Green Speed,
A normal diff in a touring car should be tight enough that it can't slip when accelerate. However, when the traction is very high I would like to let it slip a fraction so not all the power come on the wheel so hard.
For low-med grip track you can try little softer spring and softer oil. The 3mm and 4mm camber link shim in the rear give perfect camber change and we always use this combo on most tracks.

Felix,
When I build a diff I first sandpaper the plates on both sides. Normally around 500-1000 sandpaper. I use Tamiya Grease hard to put between the outdrive and the plate. Ofcourse make the outdrive and plate clean with motorspray. Then I use Schumacher silicone diff lube for the plate and the ball. I use a lot of diff lube. Then for the thrust bearing I use Associated black grease.
Before I race, I run the diff in for 30 sec.
Normally I can run my diff for at least 15 runs indoor and 10 outdoors, depends on how dusty it is.
I never change my ceramic ball, use them for 1 year already, I only change the plates every rebuild and thrust bearing.

Tom,
Because EFRA has decided not to use Lipo yet I haven't run Lipo at the Heemstede track yet. I saw some guys running Lipo and they use 4.0 or 4.5 turn motors, gearing around 7.5 Dutch tracks like Heemstede/Rucphen/ Groningen are 1/3 bigger then RCS.
Lipo topspeeds are over 100km/h.

Chris,
I build my shocks just like the manual, it's with 2 o-ring.
The car on sunday was really good and they said I was running same laptimes as the fast 1/8 Nitro buggy!
The track was still little bumpy so on the straight you had to be careful not flying of the track!

Mark,
I have seen some guys running a "normal" LRP/Nosram speedo and they really lack speed against the new SPX speedo's. Don't know the performance of the SP speedo with a 10.5T
Just check on your home track who has the most power with 10.5 and go for that combination.

Jilles
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:19 PM   #179
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Hello Jilles,

Thanks for the cool pics of your car.

by the way, which brand of ceramic diff balls are you using? Also, I noticed the diff pulley looks slightly different from one side to the other. Is the diff pulley supposed to be assembled in a certain direction? Is there anything special you do with the diff spring to make sure it runs flat?

Furthermore, I just purchased all the parts to build a complete second set of shocks for more testing on the track. However, this is the first time I'm going to be building shocks with the blue O-rings. Do you automatically install a shim next to the O-ring in order to prevent leaking or do you just use green slime or both?

Thanks again, Chris
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:35 PM   #180
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Would the 3mm and 4mm rear camber link shims also work on a TA05 IFS-R? I am having trouble with the rear of the car being loose and wanting to come around on off power corner entry.

Thanks
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Last edited by Fastforward; 04-22-2009 at 08:28 AM.
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