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Old 05-11-2011, 09:26 AM   #1546
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Hey Jilles did you conduct testing on the TA06 yet?
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:55 AM   #1547
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Hi Jilles,

I just bought a TRF416X used and would like to get my hands on the lipo frame #42182 to race in GT1.

I already have an Exotek chassis, but it's not TCS legal.

I taught that maybe you could help

Best regards, Richard

P.S. Where do you drill that 1mm hole in the top of the shocks????
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:40 PM   #1548
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Hello Jilles,

look Please at my Setup, what do you think of it?

It is difficult to drive but that is the Problem of the tires, the rear is very loose. After two rounds it is better but when i came up from the ideal line, two rounds with no grip. With setup changes was not better, for 30X is this the best. With other Tires the lap times were better up to 1sec.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:59 PM   #1549
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HY Jilles!

The track is opened in the end of may (29.5) for the official warm up race, and a week later where the austrian nationals will be runned, where i participate in TW Standard.

I think in the meantime the track will be closed. I dont know if it would be completely removed, or only closed because it is a non permanent track.

The best way is to ask your teammate pumpi, because he is part of the hostclub MAC Traiskirchen.

Greetings Blueman
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:06 AM   #1550
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Hey Jiles.

I have a question about the TRF 416 and 417
i bought a TRF 416 but i wanted too know if there is a big differance in the handling of both cars? My current car is a Xray T3 but im lacking so much steer
plus im not a big fan of Xray (stil its a really good car!) in one word: it wont work the way i want too! But in the past my best car i ever had was a TRF 415 msx. So im hoping i can get more grip with the TRF 416 and maybe buy the 417 later on this year.
Maybe you have some tricks for having good grip out of the chassis?

Thanx in advance

Cees
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:05 PM   #1551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cp Grafix View Post
Sorry I was so unclear, but english is not my main speaking.

I mean which orion motor is best for 13.5t stock racing.
The racing version or stock version.

Plus if I want to get a gearing of 3.500 shall I use 64p or is 48p a better option?
No problem! I should go for the race version. Stock version has probably fixed timing, race version you can open and change timing yourself.
I always run 64pitch as you can set your final ratio more accurate, smaller steps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MDRTales View Post
Hey Jilles did you conduct testing on the TA06 yet?
I haven't tested this car yet, I really would like to have one, gonna ask Tamiya!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Starteur View Post
Hi Jilles,

I just bought a TRF416X used and would like to get my hands on the lipo frame #42182 to race in GT1.

I already have an Exotek chassis, but it's not TCS legal.

I taught that maybe you could help

Best regards, Richard

P.S. Where do you drill that 1mm hole in the top of the shocks????
I don't know where to find a Lipo chassis for the 416. Probably somewhere at your local club or internet. The 1mm hole I drill on top of the plastic of the shock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiloolli View Post
Hello Jilles,

look Please at my Setup, what do you think of it?

It is difficult to drive but that is the Problem of the tires, the rear is very loose. After two rounds it is better but when i came up from the ideal line, two rounds with no grip. With setup changes was not better, for 30X is this the best. With other Tires the lap times were better up to 1sec.
The 30X tyres are not the best tyres so good set-up is necessary. I think you should try less camber ( -2 degrees ) and less downstop ( 5mm ) in the rear.
I also found your camberlink spacer on the rear hub little to high, try 3mm shim!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
HY Jilles!

The track is opened in the end of may (29.5) for the official warm up race, and a week later where the austrian nationals will be runned, where i participate in TW Standard.

I think in the meantime the track will be closed. I dont know if it would be completely removed, or only closed because it is a non permanent track.

The best way is to ask your teammate pumpi, because he is part of the hostclub MAC Traiskirchen.

Greetings Blueman
Thanks for the info. Unfortunate I can't make it to the Euros Warm-up.
Will check with Pumpi how we can schedule a practise session.

Quote:
Originally Posted by racecees1 View Post
Hey Jiles.

I have a question about the TRF 416 and 417
i bought a TRF 416 but i wanted too know if there is a big differance in the handling of both cars? My current car is a Xray T3 but im lacking so much steer
plus im not a big fan of Xray (stil its a really good car!) in one word: it wont work the way i want too! But in the past my best car i ever had was a TRF 415 msx. So im hoping i can get more grip with the TRF 416 and maybe buy the 417 later on this year.
Maybe you have some tricks for having good grip out of the chassis?

Thanx in advance

Cees
Hey Cees, the 417 is an update of the 416. The 417 changes direction faster as the weight is more to the middle of the chassis. The 415msx was a great car, and if you found the set-up it was as fast as the 416 or 417 but it wasn't that consistant. The 416 and 417 are designed to work on any conditions any time, therefor you should not change too much in the set-up going from one track to another track.

Jilles
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:32 AM   #1552
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Jilles thanks for all the help. I wanted to know when you set your EPA and D- rate do you put your dual rate all the way up and then you set you EPA?


THANKS David co
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:07 PM   #1553
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I've tested the HPI silver spring today, I noticed a little more speed in high speed corner, nothing more, nothing less. Well, seems to be better anyway, so I keep them

In medium speed corner, the rear end tends to slip, any tips ? Box set up, 1,5 rear camber, HPI spring.

Thanks
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:27 AM   #1554
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Hey Jiles

just got my self a 416, i have the transpeed 6.5T motor to install. what is the best ratio for spur and pinion combination with standart 105T 64P spur. I'm running on outdoor aspalt with combine tactical and long strait track. and settup suggestion for the chassis?

thank you
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:51 AM   #1555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zafira2310 View Post
Hey Jiles

just got my self a 416, i have the transpeed 6.5T motor to install. what is the best ratio for spur and pinion combination with standart 105T 64P spur. I'm running on outdoor aspalt with combine tactical and long strait track. and settup suggestion for the chassis?

thank you
I encountered the same issue...
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:11 AM   #1556
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Hi Jilles, Can you suggest a carpet setup for the original 416 with the stock arms . The track infield is very technical with tight corners U style and the back end seams 2 loose grip halfway in the corners. Hope u can help as I'm getting very frustrated with it.
I'm using the CC XA E combo.
thanx
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:21 PM   #1557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
Jilles thanks for all the help. I wanted to know when you set your EPA and D- rate do you put your dual rate all the way up and then you set you EPA?

THANKS David co
I normally run D-rate about 10% of from max and adjust EPA.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kedal View Post
I've tested the HPI silver spring today, I noticed a little more speed in high speed corner, nothing more, nothing less. Well, seems to be better anyway, so I keep them

In medium speed corner, the rear end tends to slip, any tips ? Box set up, 1,5 rear camber, HPI spring.

Thanks
Try little more camber, and less camberchange, little more shim on the rear camberlink.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zafira2310 View Post
Hey Jiles

just got my self a 416, i have the transpeed 6.5T motor to install. what is the best ratio for spur and pinion combination with standart 105T 64P spur. I'm running on outdoor aspalt with combine tactical and long strait track. and settup suggestion for the chassis?

thank you
I quess you run the 6.5T without Boost, right? Then I advice a ratio about 6.5, that's 105/33
Run box set-up and you will be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by guinnes.s View Post
Hi Jilles, Can you suggest a carpet setup for the original 416 with the stock arms . The track infield is very technical with tight corners U style and the back end seams 2 loose grip halfway in the corners. Hope u can help as I'm getting very frustrated with it.
I'm using the CC XA E combo.
thanx
Did you check some pages back my Snowbirds 2011 set-up? LRP masters set-up is also really good for carpet. You mean you run the original longer 416 arms? I suggest to get some TA05 short arms, same arms that comes with the 416X and 417.

Jilles
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:47 PM   #1558
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I Jilles,yes the car is the first series 416 made with the long arm, and as I got many spares stock arms I would like to keep going with them. What handling difference between the long and shorts?
The setup you are talking about is for the 417 not the 416. Does make no difference? Thanx again.
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:15 AM   #1559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post


Try little more camber, and less camberchange, little more shim on the rear camberlink.

Jilles
I tried this tips yesterday, I noticed significal change, especially with the shime on the rear camberlink (1mm more). More camber everywhere was good too, but not for the tires ! I put it back to a little more than 1,5 (I'll say 1,7) and that was better for the tires, and no spilling on the rear end anymore.
Thanks !
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:55 PM   #1560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guinnes.s View Post
I Jilles,yes the car is the first series 416 made with the long arm, and as I got many spares stock arms I would like to keep going with them. What handling difference between the long and shorts?
The setup you are talking about is for the 417 not the 416. Does make no difference? Thanx again.
The short arms are just faster, more traction, more reaction, faster laptimes.
Set-up for 416 works also for the 417, no problem!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kedal View Post
I tried this tips yesterday, I noticed significal change, especially with the shime on the rear camberlink (1mm more). More camber everywhere was good too, but not for the tires ! I put it back to a little more than 1,5 (I'll say 1,7) and that was better for the tires, and no spilling on the rear end anymore.
Thanks !
Good to hear!
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