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Old 03-26-2009, 04:08 PM   #1
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Default Tekin 17.5 Problem

After a few months of total trouble free racing my 17.5 burnt out, I think.

I started the day, with no changes in gearing or anything else, ran about 1 minute and I noticed the car was lacking power. I stopped and the motor also stopped.

When I turn on the speedo it flashes as though the wrong motor is selected (which it isn't it works on other brushless motors), I tried all motor type selections to no avail.

There are no visible bad connections in the motor, & I also re soldered the motor to be sure about those connections. Also tried a new sensor wire.

Anyone else experience this? Suggestions, or is the motor cooked?
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Old 03-26-2009, 04:54 PM   #2
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Did you try another motor? Maybe the speedo is cooked? Just a suggestion.
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Did you try another motor? Maybe the speedo is cooked? Just a suggestion.
It may also depend on what bl motor it is
also like Johnny said, the speedo may be messed up.
Alot of guys from Snowbirds had motors from Batches of Trinity Pulse's and Duo's are running incorrectly. If you didnt change anything internally on the speedo then you shouldn't worry about it being the wrong throttle profiles or settings. Your best bet would be to try another motor, brushed, or bl. If they dont work the I suggest contacting whom its made by, (ie. or send it in)they may or may not replace it free but its worth a try
just my .02
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:07 PM   #4
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Check your sensor wire pull it off and try it in sensorless mode. Then reattach the sensor wire and try sensored again . Let me know what happens and I hopeful will be able to direct you further. To save some time typing feel free to give me a call at 417-379-1652 Mon thru fri 11:00 am to 9:00 pm and I will try to help you if this don't help.

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Old 03-26-2009, 05:38 PM   #5
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I had a Redline 17.5 show a lack in power. I took a close look at the motor and realized the can and sensor housing started to separate. This separation will cause the bearings to come out of alignment.
Look closely at the rear of the can in the area where the label is. You will notice a seam in the can. This seam should be even and tight all the way around. If not, you popped the two pieces apart. These two pieces are held together with a two part epoxy after a few hard crashes they can start to separate.

If the motor is beyond the factory warranty, fear not, it can be fixed! Just need some basic tools, elbow grease, and JB Weld!

First remove the three screws holding the plastic cover on the back of the motor and remove the cover.

Next, carefully unsolder the three motor tabs from the windings. Using an old cap off of a spray can as a stand helps. Just poke a hole in the middle of the cap 1/8in diam and set the motor shaft down inside.
To unsolder the tabs, apply heat with the iron, then as the solder melts carefully lift the tab off the motor with tweezers or needle nose pliers.

Once the three tabs are off you can remove the fiberglass insulator then the sensor array. Lift the insulator out of the motor then turn the sensor array so the three aluminum tabs can slide out of the three slots in the aluminum housing.

Third step is to make alignment marks on the housing and the can so you can re assemble them properly later. I used an x-acto blade to scribe three small marks across the seam and the housing.

Once you make the marks. Carefully pry the housing away from the can. Depending on how far they were knocked loose, you mat need the help of an x-acto blade, or a small slotted screwdriver. Once you get started they will separate quickly.

After you remove the housing from the can, you should notice the clear epoxy that was used to hold the two pieces together. Carefully peel off all the old epoxy around the inside lip of the can as well as any remaining epoxy on the housing.

Once all the old epoxy is cleaned off, prep the bonding surfaces with a gray scuff pad (scotch brite) and wipe clean with some alcohol or motor spray on a rag.

Mix up some JB Weld according to the instructions on the package, and apply a coating to the inner lip of the can as well as the area on the housing going into the can. Make sure to get a nice even coating. I like to use a toothpick or an old scrap of lexan to mix and apply the JB Weld. Join the two parts together as soon as you are done coating them, paying attention to the alignment marks you made earlier. Make sure the seam between the two parts are tight and even.

Wipe off any excess JB Weld from the outside of the motor. Double check the alignment marks you made, then let the whole thing sit for 24-48 hours to fully cure.

Once the JB Weld is cured. Simply re assemble the parts in the opposite order you removed them. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Bayless View Post
Check your sensor wire pull it off and try it in sensorless mode. Then reattach the sensor wire and try sensored again . Let me know what happens and I hopeful will be able to direct you further. To save some time typing feel free to give me a call at 417-379-1652 Mon thru fri 11:00 am to 9:00 pm and I will try to help you if this don't help.

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That is customer service! Thats why I'm going TEKIN.
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Old 03-26-2009, 10:32 PM   #7
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Thanks for the suggestions. I knew their would be a wealth of knowledge on this forum.

And the speedo is fine it runs other motors with no problem, my other RS speedo doesn't run this 17.5 either so I'm thinking something must have been knocked loose. My only question is how? Their isn't any crashing in Touring car racing is their? (sarcasm)

Thanks
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Old 03-26-2009, 11:00 PM   #8
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You must have finessed a board into submission.

Hope you have it fixed by Saturday.
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Old 03-27-2009, 05:03 AM   #9
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I forgot to mention. If you need to repair the motor as I described, use a silver bearing solder to re attach the motor tabs to the winds. You shouldn't need much, with the original solder still mostly there.
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Old 03-27-2009, 06:25 AM   #10
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You know, I am having issues with my 17.5 motor as well. I noticed that it overheats a lot. Sometimes it gets hot enough where touching it is a warrented skin searing. I checked the boost yesterday and it is only at 10, while the motor itself is advanced 12 degrees. So that is a total of 22 degrees advanced timing, well within the limit per recommendation by Tekin.

Have you had this issue as well, rocketman17? I am getting worried that my motor is on the verge of crapping out on me. I love the motor a ton and don't want that to happen.
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Old 03-27-2009, 08:17 AM   #11
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Rocket: If you're esc is showing the leds 1,2 and 6,7 that is indiacting wrong motor type. However that could be a bad phase in your motor OR a problem with the esc. Best thing to do is swap out the motor and try a different one. If we still show wrong motor chosen the esc has an issue and needs to come home. Really check that motor! If the motor has a shorted winding or is bad in some other form it will take out the esc.

If the motor is getting hot you may be overgeared. Your timing is fine if not low to be honest for a 17.5.

I'd make sure to spin the motor by hand. Popping the bearings out and giving them a spin isn't out of the question either.

The endbell seperation has only happened on a very small number of motors(less than a finger count). We offer to repair it for you or as stated above the repair is easy.

If you think your bearings are misaligned all it takes is a LIGHT tap on the rotor shaft to straighten them.
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Old 03-27-2009, 08:28 AM   #12
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My 17.5 has been running pretty hot too, but I'm now up around a 5.1 FDR with rubber tires on my TC, zero motor timing and full boost and temps are very reasonable and fast as ever.

I'm currently running a fairly tight carpet track if that helps.
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Old 03-27-2009, 11:30 PM   #13
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everyone's running the redline
I thought everyone here was running Trinity bl and it was messing up
all common problems among motors lately
sometimes bl motors tend to run faster if they are warmer. That doesnt mean it should be scolding hot. But a temp of 140 off an indoor carpet track isnt that bad. We were running that outdoor mid-summer. Even if a motor goes thermal 10 times It may still work. It just may not have the power it originally had
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