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Old 11-27-2003, 09:49 PM   #1
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Default soldering battery (overheating)

will you ruin your cells if when you solder them together with battery bars and you use a high powered solder gun like 100w or 140w instead of smaller ones. I made a pack a long time ago. i t never worked. I checked the voltage on the cells and about 3 out of the 6 were dead. Could they of overheated or could it be cecause they were bad cheap cells.

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Old 11-27-2003, 10:01 PM   #2
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the solder joint and the type of solder matters a great deal.
using high power soldering iron doesn't affect much as long as you can get the soldering done in few seconds
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Old 11-27-2003, 10:05 PM   #3
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the first time i made packs i held the soder gun up againt the cells and bar for a minute or so becaus ethey solder wasn't melting.
Q: when i solder sometimes there is this yellow gooie type stuff that is there when i'm done. WHY?
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Old 11-27-2003, 10:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by 70mph pan car
the first time i made packs i held the soder gun up againt the cells and bar for a minute or so becaus ethey solder wasn't melting.
Q: when i solder sometimes there is this yellow gooie type stuff that is there when i'm done. WHY?
Wow holding the iron on the cell for a minute will definately effect it. You should not be holding it there for longer than 4 or 5 seconds and even that is a bit long. You either need a better iron or a bigger tip on the iron. I use a Snap-on gun type iron with interchangeable tips and use the 1/4 inch wide tip for batteries.

The yellow stuff left behind is unburned flux.

BTW that gun is only 70.00 us and is 450 wats with the large tip and 120 with the small one.
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Old 11-27-2003, 10:27 PM   #5
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my gun is pretty good i think the tighten nuts where loose, but anyway how can i avoid unburned flux?and does it affect performance?
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Old 11-27-2003, 10:29 PM   #6
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no... just wipe it off while it's still liquidy after you are done soldering
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Old 11-28-2003, 01:53 AM   #7
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Soldering guns - where you pull a trigger to heat them up - aren't generally good for soldering cells - they don't have the mass of material in the tip to transfer heat effectively to the solder joint on the cell - so you probably have cooked the cells if it took a minute for the solder to melt.

Get yourself a nice Iron, 60+W, with a chunky tip, this should heat up the joint between the cells in seconds, then you can apply the solder, pull the iron away, and watch it cool to a nice wet-looking joint.
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Old 11-28-2003, 04:01 AM   #8
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Here is a tutorial

Promatch battery solderingpage
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Old 11-28-2003, 07:59 AM   #9
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i have a weller 80 watt gun, it's perfect for everything(esc, battery, motor). When you solder a pack, make sure you use enough solder, mostly, you want the end of the bar to be covered in solder, but not a big glob on ot, just a nice round top. Also, get a jig if you have alot of packs to make, or often make new ones, they are nice.
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Old 11-28-2003, 10:32 AM   #10
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I agree with pro3racer on the Jig...

I have the Dean's Speed Jig, and it helps ALLOT, even if you are only making one pack [you know you'll make more, so get it now ]

I made 4 2400 nicad packs with my Radio Shack 60w soldering iron, $8 It only has the pointed tip for it, but it works well for everything I've done so far, and I always get awesome power and run-time out of my battery packs.
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Old 11-28-2003, 11:04 AM   #11
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Default Re: soldering battery (overheating)

Quote:
Originally posted by 70mph pan car
will you ruin your cells if when you solder them together with battery bars and you use a high powered solder gun like 100w or 140w instead of smaller ones. I made a pack a long time ago. i t never worked. I checked the voltage on the cells and about 3 out of the 6 were dead. Could they of overheated or could it be cecause they were bad cheap cells.
The MORE Power (watts) and the bigger the tip, the better. You need to melt the solder as quickly as possible to avoid overheating the cells.
If it is taking longer than about 5 seconds to finish soldering each joint, time to upgrade your soldering tool.
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Old 11-28-2003, 11:39 AM   #12
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I wouldn't reccomend using a gun anyway. They are hard to solder batteries with. Go to towerhobbies and pick up the hobbico 60 watt iron. Its only 6 bucks, and it comes with 2 perfect chisel tips. i love mine
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Old 11-28-2003, 12:11 PM   #13
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Go to www.bomir.com, Find the Goot irons & guns. TQ Series.. I have a TQ 95 its as 150 watts of power.. The TQ 77 gun has 200 watts of power. The Best part of this brand it's the price. Last time I looked TQ 95 is"25.00" Special price. And you don't the to buy a big tip to solder batteries. It will be the best 25.00 you'll spend for RC Car Racing.. I have had TQ-95 for 8 months this the same tip... Tip is still good because when you plug iron in, it idles at 20 watts push the button it will glow cherry red within 30 seconds.. Plus Goot brand isn't big and heavy like weller brands

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Old 11-28-2003, 03:49 PM   #14
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The guys are right, the wattage of the iron or gun isn't the most important thing(but it is agreed that 50-60 watts or more is a good idea), but surface area at the tip is VERY important. That's what allows you to transfer the soldering iron's heat to the items you're connecting quickly, so you don't damage anything, & that's why irons are generally better suited to the task than guns. As for removing flux, don't worry about trying to burn it all off, just scrape it off with an Exacto blade when it cools, & if you still ned to clean it off more, just use an old toothbrush & some alcohol, it'll get rid of it pretty easily....
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Old 11-28-2003, 09:37 PM   #15
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I would have to totally disagree with grizzlybob... Wattage is very important! More power equals more heat which means less time to melt solder... That is why I don't have a big tip on my iron.. Since I haven't been to bormir site in a long time. Here is a better link:
www.bomir.com/online/index.php?sub=78 It should bring right to TQ series.. More accurate info TQ-95 idles at 15 watts.. And I see price at 30.00 now. I just tried link in my post above is bad because of the coma at end.. This iron has features of a 100.00+ solder station, but priced alittle higher than houseold weller. Plus iron isn't big & heavy as weller 60....
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