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Old 12-16-2003, 02:43 PM   #91
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use the spring combo that comes with motor?
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Old 12-16-2003, 03:22 PM   #92
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Hey guys any time you think our sport is costly go to http://www.slotcarcity.com/ and check out the group27 6mag motor 259.00$ HOLY S__T
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Old 12-16-2003, 05:50 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
in pro type 1/24 slot car racing Quads were used in the early 80's. now in some (but not the stock type classes) classes they are up to 6-10 magnet segments on each side. they run on high power tracks.

www.slotcarcity.com
www.radtrax.com
www.oldweirdherald.com (slot car forum)

the huge wood tracks they run on, are usually 12v-16v powered with up to 4+ industrial Caterpillar type batteries with a trickle charger on them. they supply haneous and strong amperage thru out the race.

in 1/24 slot we want strong matched magnets. to the point their is no cog / thump as you turn the arm. this results in higher rpm and less vibration.

don't think slotcars are not prevelant to RC.....the endbells you enjoy today were used about ten+ years prior to the RC car industry using them. Prior to 1980, RC motor brushes were on copper levered endbelled Igarashi/Mabuchi type motors. i use to look at my Mura motors and wonder why these endbells weren't used on my RC motors back in 1978.....

also not to mention Armature technology ideas borrowed from 1/24 racing and the GOLD Dust brushes 1/24 guys have run for years now

don't know if the magnet technology will apply to stock RC motors as it does to Mod motors. maybe if istock was changed to a 19T type motor. i think the 27t is limited on being able to utilize this technology......as it is with the 16D class motors used in basic 1/24 racing
You're absolutely right, Trinity is actually one of those companies that got its start making products for slot cars, & that's where they've gotten their ideas for some time. But as we've seen, some ideas will work better than others....
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:57 AM   #94
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It always slays me when ROAR takes a stand on motor development. A stock motor is like $28. A competitive 6-cell pack on the other hand is like $70+, but new batteries are approved all the time.

In the Dark Days before rebuildables you only got about three good runs out of a stocker, then the comm was shot. Then the stock lathes came out and ROAR banned their use, stating that not everyone had access to a lathe. Finally we got rebuildables, which made it even more important for the average racer to have a lathe. Quad mag motors are just an evolutionary step, whether or not they offer any performance gain is still up in the air, but why ban them? There are people on here who swear that Monsters are faster than the Binary anyway. I personally think those folks haven't figured the Binary out yet, but whatever. I also feel it's more the arm than the can though. Interested in seeing what the binary arm, monster can combo yeilds. I can say however that the stockers I ran at Cleveland were THE FASTEST stock motors I've ever strapped in my cars.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:14 AM   #95
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For what it's worth...

I'm not sure the value that slot cars see with multi magnets will directly translate to the RC electric motors. A couple things come to mind... we do not run anywhere near the same voltage or amperage that slot car motors will see. We also don't have anwhere near the same kind of RPM that a slot car motor will see (largely because we don't have the same voltage and amperage)...

In other words... just because slot car motors work better with multi magnets, doesn't mean RC motors must also work better with multi magnets.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:32 AM   #96
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Ok, question about motor dyno sheets, what do these numbers mean?? I know each category, but what numbers mean a good motor?

Constant Volt 6.50

25479 0.9 18 21 12.9
22502 4.0 67 59 17.1
19675 7.1 103 70 22.5
18034 9.0 121 69 26.7
16348 11.0 133 63 31.8
14563 13.2 142 58 37.4
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:32 AM   #97
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I am going with Ian on this one-they are fast-very fast-but so far they are temperamental for me. MIne stay fast for one run-then are so slow like they blew a cap. But after a full rebuild are fast again.

IN fact-one motor quit 2-minutes into a practice at Champs-just quit, but servo worked, batteries discharged fine. Again-cut it-new brushes-it was fine again and in fact became my best motor.

For sure they run hot and are not efficient as well. But we will learn them as well as any other motor and this whole discussion will seem trivial in two months.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:42 AM   #98
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Birdy,

Your question is one that could be debated for days, weeks, or even years...

My personaly opion... get the highest Power you can at and around 30 amps... or even as high as 36 amps... The more power the better... The lower amp loads are not of that much value I don' think... not as a modern racer with 3300 mAh batteries.


I'm used to seeing 28 amp numbers at 7 volts constant from CD TD users... so I can't really comment on your specific numbers.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:49 AM   #99
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BS gearing question

I continue to read that racers are dropping teeth (2 to 3)having switched to the new BS. That being said what does dropping 2 equate to?

Asumming I run my Monsters at a 7.1 to 7.3 final drive in TC...should I move toward a 7.8 to a 8.0 final?

thanks for your help.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:52 AM   #100
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Opps... I shouldn't have said that the numbers at lower amp steps don't matter... That is not true... it's just that I wouldn't look at it in relation to amp input... This is a area where things get really tricky, and I'm not prepared to go into my theroy on it at this time.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:54 AM   #101
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The "dyno" sheet is what comes with the "Factory" tuned motors you can buy, what the heck is a good motor when looking at those supplied sheets? Are those things worth a crap?

Thanks!
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:02 AM   #102
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Who's factory?

Trinity/EPIC uses a Fantom Dyno these days, and those are not Fantom numbers. So you must have got the motor from someone other then Trinity/EPIC

What value your data is, depends on many things, the first of which and most important is... were the brushes fully seated when the test was done? You will never really know for sure unless you watched them run the test and had looked at the burshes before hand... If you look at them when you first get the motor, you could assume they are in the same condtion they were in when the motor was tested... and if your motor tuner is honest, then that is a good assumption...
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:13 AM   #103
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The motor is a Birdman, which I believe uses P2K cans?? What dyno is used is unknown?
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:17 AM   #104
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Is your sheet printed on something that resembles a old cash register receipt? if so, then it's from a Competition Electronics TurboDumo 45. Based on the numbers you've given, that is likely what it's from.

P2K? I was expecting a EPIC Binary 2 'outlaw stock' motor, since that is what this thread was/is about...


Hmmm.
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:20 AM   #105
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Yep, looks like a cash register receipt. (I didn't want to start a whole new thread) So what is a way to look at those a determine which motor has better #'s? Thanks for the info!!
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