smoke81

Those are the same as the Atomic shafts.

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

im just looking for the easiest ones to modify for my car so what will i need to do to get them to fit properly? anything major?

AdamD

iTrader: (6)

You will need to dremel out the c-hub and remove some material on the hex. Use the inner bearing that is provided with the cvd set. I would also make sure you locktite all the set screws and place heat sink tubing when your done. Just a side note, the pins and barrows are unique to these cvd's. If you loose a pin you will have to source it out yourself. They only sell complete sets. Hope this helps

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

Speedtech is showing a replacement coupler and pin kit for the DCJ's.

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

I know that alot of people question the durability of a car so I thought I'd give an update on the Photon. I bounce off enough stuff during the day, just trying to steal that extra inch or two from the line. This week I went through the car and found some interesting stuff. I had bent a screw on the front arm pin holder. Arm was still good. I also suffered from a broken rear hinge pin, but once again the arm was still good. I've had the car for about 5 months now and still haven't broken any plastic pieces. (minus one steering bellcrank without a servo saver) Great performance and very durable car. Doesn't hurt that it costs $100 less than the other high performance cars on the market.

marcel p

strange?
nobody here is mentioning the breaking of arms.
only hinge pins i think.

mikky32

I broke 2 arms yesterday
Just bad luck. An Xray driver told me that Xray is stronger and the next head he drove he broke his arm

I have had the Xray and I can say the TOP is strong.
The C hubs I didn't brake wile I broke several Xrays C hubs.
I have broken only 1 steering block and 1 rear arm.
The rear arm was because an other driver drove in tom me from the side.

krat

About C-joint blade, it looks promising, strong, very thick, and the wear is minimal.
BUT
it was getting wider and suddenly missing during a run (yeah it is my fault, i forgot to replace it although i knew it would snap off), damaged my red diff outdrive.
do you guys suffer the same problem (c blade getting wider)?

Sal Amato

iTrader: (27)

Although the durabilty is really good on these parts check out what I just came across http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/t-o-p-p...bs/#more-27823

Team_Elli

Anyone know if there is going to be any updates on the steering bellcrank in alu. i am getting pretty tired of changing these now and yes i am running the kimbrough servo saver

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

lol I broke one! butt then again full speed down the straight and pushing out in the sweeper after the straight will do that. i will say that it was one hall of a hit and im honestly surprised that nothing else broke on the car consider its was 13.5 with a tekin. i love this car!!!!!!!!!!!!

mikky32

I never broke a bell crank. I use the TOP servo saver. Best I ever had.
I drive also a Tekin with a 10,5T
No car can survive these collisions.

marcel p

i broke few arms, rear weel blocks and hinge pins
6 front arms ,3 rear arms, 2 weel blocks, 3 hinge pins.
2 beldcranks.
2 hard hits for the rest soft taps.
almost drove a jear with no problems but the last 4 weeks al of this
with my arp 1,5 jears no problems .
more britle as my arp or just bad luck
its just how you hit things.
some real hard hit you think its dead and you just drove off

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

I wasn't trying to imply that the arms were breaking. Quite the opposite. I was surprised that a metal hinge pin would break and the arm survived.

neltime64

iTrader: (8)

So are these the newest versions for the front?