olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

I actually liked the car very much....felt very linear and smooth thru the corners....likes to be pushed thru the infield...
but I'm not the best driver and a few taps. (yes taps) and the spools (that's multiple) and the cups and inside of cup retainer rounded out...

I still say this is probably the best car on the market currently...

again....does anyone know of a steel or aluminum replacement?

Thanks

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

When are you going to bring that TOP ride out and show us how it's done?

E.J. Evans

Update on the Spool:

We have shot spools with a harder material and testing has proved them to be much better.

We are also making the drive cups out of Steel and Aluminum. Steel drive cups will come standard with the next batch of kits. They will also be sold separately. The aluminum ones will use a blade. I've been testing the aluminum ones for a month and it’s awesome. Second batch of kits, steel and aluminum drive cups due out in about a month.

Quick fix for the current spool:

We have started advising racers to use a wood screw for the spool. The size we found the best is a #5 5x5/8 button head. It needs to be trimmed about 2-3mm as it’s just a hair long. It keeps the drive cup in place really well. The screws can be purchased at your local hardware store.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

I run the same track as olhipster-- today 2 photons went thru 4 spools-I took a look at the shot ones from choas car- I think ej's wood screw tip will help,machine screws and plastic don't mix well.A better spline system or alum parts will def help also.It's a good car with a solvable "teething" problem.Neither of these cars above ran mod 1-13.5, 1-17.5. And they were as said taps not wall bangers,And neither drivers name was Harvey-

E.J. Evans

Remember this picture of me bashing my Reedy winning car.



Here is what I was testing :



It was awesome. Aluminum drive cup will be made out of 7075 and use a blade. Both held up very well. I've ran 4 or 5 race days plus practice and have not needed to touch it once. It has also been tested by a few other different people with equally positive results. Hang in there, they will be available in a month.

Like I mentioned steel versions of this will come standard with the kits. The steel versions do not use a blade.

Slick990

Will the plastic outdrives stopped being made?

We dont have a problem with the plastic outdrives in the Uk and apart from indoors see no need for the alloy ones.

Luke Hobson

I don't know about you craig but I've broken 3 cups and 1 actual spool so far (and thats with no "big" hits) maybe the problem isn't as bad in just 10.5....

Currantly I've got a yokomo BD spool in the front until EJ hooks me up lol.

See ya in a few weeks ej!!

Luke

Slick990

Hi Luke,
It does seem to be in the 10.5 class that we are not having the problems with the car as you fast lot with the mod's.

Since putting about 30+ runs on the car i am still using the same outdrive's and they show no sign of wear, though i replaced them this week just as routine maintance. Dont want to loose the light weight front end as well impressed with the steering that the car produces as well as the lack of mid corner push that other cars suffer.

But then I havent sufferd the problems with the rear blades either popping off.

Mightly impressed with the car, took my best result at a national at cotswold last weekend as well as going 10 seconds under my PB there, where i had done hundreds of laps with my previous car.

Just need to sort out the weight transfer on the car and stop the weight moving to fast to the front and letting the rear end overtake the front. Thinking of trying 1.1mm pistons in the car or a thicker front oil.

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

Please use the blades on all the versions . Trust me , its way easier to just make it all work the same. even the steel ones will get hammered by the bones... then they will chatter.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

A few swipes w/dremel or a file on the slots and blades will work on the steel ones-

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

So if there is a coating or it is a treated surface, I should file that? I'd perfer that I was a correct part from the start. A half-assed attempt to file may cause drive line issues. I need plug and play quality thank you.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I do not run a Photon, but why put a blade system on steel spool? If that's the case, then just make aluminum ones. I think steel non-bladed will be good for beginner or average racers. No need to worry about toasting blades during a crash. So no need to carry tons of spare blades. Remember the blade system on TC5 where racers toasted their blades in aluminum spool, then toasted the spool as a result of that. Me personally, I prefer the plastic/composite spool.

prodriver

Hi guys running the car on a fast very flowing track where corner speed is critical. what changes would you make to the car to make it carry more speed through large flowing corners?

Thanks

Rick Thomson

Not driving a Top either but I don't really mind using alu outdrives for my spool. When the blades fit good in the outdrive it won't wear or break that fast. After putting the spool in the high position in the old TC5 I drove weeks without messing up in blades (in mod with braking)

Try using thicker anti-rollbars both in the front and the rear.

Luke Hobson

rick, get yourself a TOP

You coming to DHI again? You have to stay out for the party next time lol, 8am we got back haha (with 1pm flight lol)