T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#1321
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
rubber tire springs...
PS-TR15550 Gamma Spring 393gf/mm, 22.0lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15575 Gamma Spring 367gf/mm, 20.5lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15600 Gamma Spring 344gf/mm, 19.2lb/in (2 pcs) - Kit
PS-TR15625 Gamma Spring 324gf/mm, 18.1lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15650 Gamma Spring 306gf/mm, 17.1lb/in (2 pcs) - Kit
PS-TR15675 Gamma Spring 289gf/mm, 16.2lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15550 Gamma Spring 393gf/mm, 22.0lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15575 Gamma Spring 367gf/mm, 20.5lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15600 Gamma Spring 344gf/mm, 19.2lb/in (2 pcs) - Kit
PS-TR15625 Gamma Spring 324gf/mm, 18.1lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15650 Gamma Spring 306gf/mm, 17.1lb/in (2 pcs) - Kit
PS-TR15675 Gamma Spring 289gf/mm, 16.2lb/in (2 pcs)
#1322
i think they are 17lb and 19lb springs, someone else has posted the spring rate a couple of pages back. Ron H,
#1323
PS-TR15550 Gamma Spring 393gf/mm, 22.0lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15575 Gamma Spring 367gf/mm, 20.5lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15600 Gamma Spring 344gf/mm, 19.2lb/in (2 pcs) - Kit
PS-TR15625 Gamma Spring 324gf/mm, 18.1lb/in (2 pcs)
PS-TR15650 Gamma Spring 306gf/mm, 17.1lb/in (2 pcs) - Kit
PS-TR15675 Gamma Spring 289gf/mm, 16.2lb/in (2 pcs)
#1324
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
I really can't explain it. But I can say I've put hundreds of packs through my previous car (which seems to have been an influence on the Photon) under these exact circumstances, and have never had to think twice about CVD blades. My expectations for this part, especially with everything else on the Photon being so nice, are pretty high.
The way I see it... it's good for people to figure out and solve these small issues that aren't experienced by everybody. That way, there's less of a chance of visiting a new track (like a big race out of town) and suddenly finding out 8 spare CVD blades isn't enough.
Anyway, we're not just sitting idle and whining. Those of us having trouble are testing out all kinds of different ideas to try and solve it. A little free R&D, if you will.
Last edited by syndr0me; 07-09-2009 at 02:47 PM. Reason: typo
#1325
#1326
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Hey George - Keep in mind, I only had prototype or pre-production parts so I'm not 100% sure where the difference/tolerance problem is at. I know in the files it is extremely close if you run the rear end narrow. This was one of the reasons why I went with the cone washers instead of the spring.
Everyone else bought up all the kits so I am still waiting on a production kit also...lol... Hopefully, I'll have one soon and I can check it out...
Everyone else bought up all the kits so I am still waiting on a production kit also...lol... Hopefully, I'll have one soon and I can check it out...
#1328
Actually, the original 416 came with 44mm shafts with long arms. I switched to 42mm shafts in the rear when I went to short arms. If anyone needs to source out 44mm shafts, if you can't find Tamiya ones, you can use Yokomo BD5 rears. They are 44mm as well. If you do not want to use steel rears, or want to stay away from Tamiya Blue, you can get Square Ti 44mm bones. Just some thoughts for you guys.
#1329
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
OK so EJ asked me to post some of my findings in relation to the blade situation. A replaced all of my TOP universals with Hot Bodies 44mm steel universals. unfortunately I had to do a little grinding on the ball end of each universal so that it would fit inside the out-drive, but that was pretty easy. Once I did that I installed Hotbodies blades in the rear of the car and TOP blades (had to ream out the holes) on the front of the car. I ran the car 5 times tonight and did not have one issue with the blades. After some close evaluation of the situation it is clear to me that the length of the universal is the problem and not the blades themselves. Of course this is my personal observation, but I think based on what I have been seeing with the way in which the blades are breaking that is indeed the case.
I am not sure if it has anything to do with the blades hitting the screw assembly or if it is getting caught in the out-drive during universal articulation.
I know that the Tamiya 44mm universals are a direct fit without any required modification, and might be a good option until TOP can release the 44.5mm universals.
I was thinking about the way the cars are shimmed and how that would indeed be a factor. So, I figured I would post what I am running in reference to the 44mm universals.
Front - Front: 0 spacers
Front - Rear: 0 spacers
)))) diff washers
Rear - Front: .75mm spacer
Rear - Rear: 3mm spacer
)))) diff washers
Hope this information helps people, but I am in no way talking for TOP racing, these are my own personal findings.
Thanks,
Art
I am not sure if it has anything to do with the blades hitting the screw assembly or if it is getting caught in the out-drive during universal articulation.
I know that the Tamiya 44mm universals are a direct fit without any required modification, and might be a good option until TOP can release the 44.5mm universals.
I was thinking about the way the cars are shimmed and how that would indeed be a factor. So, I figured I would post what I am running in reference to the 44mm universals.
Front - Front: 0 spacers
Front - Rear: 0 spacers
)))) diff washers
Rear - Front: .75mm spacer
Rear - Rear: 3mm spacer
)))) diff washers
Hope this information helps people, but I am in no way talking for TOP racing, these are my own personal findings.
Thanks,
Art
Last edited by artwork; 07-09-2009 at 09:45 PM.
#1330
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
That's great news Art! I've got some Tamiya 44's I can spread around Monday, if I don't drown in the river (or vodka) this weekend.
Every car has its quirks starting out. I hope this talk about blades hasn't discouraged anybody, this car is fantastic. I got the 416 before it was released in the states, and stayed up all night building it so I could run it on the track the next day. I was so tired I nearly fell asleep at the wheel on the way there. Anyway, on the first lap, I hit a board and decimated both front CVD's (aluminum). The car was forever nicknamed "rice cake" after that by witnesses (smoke81, HenBeav). I didn't have any spares, so it was a very discouraging maiden voyage. And don't even get me started on the steering tie rods, aluminum ball ends, and front/rear block. Definitely a rocky start for a car that's now being used to win a lot of significant races.
The thing about TOP, though, is that these guys listen to the issues racers have (even if you're not all-world team driver), and consider them carefully. That kind of care doesn't exist anywhere else in our hobby. How many threads dedicated to the various chassis have the engineer of the car show up and say why they made the decisions they did? Are you kidding me?
Anyway, that's about used up my online kindness for the year, so now it's back to being grumpy.
Every car has its quirks starting out. I hope this talk about blades hasn't discouraged anybody, this car is fantastic. I got the 416 before it was released in the states, and stayed up all night building it so I could run it on the track the next day. I was so tired I nearly fell asleep at the wheel on the way there. Anyway, on the first lap, I hit a board and decimated both front CVD's (aluminum). The car was forever nicknamed "rice cake" after that by witnesses (smoke81, HenBeav). I didn't have any spares, so it was a very discouraging maiden voyage. And don't even get me started on the steering tie rods, aluminum ball ends, and front/rear block. Definitely a rocky start for a car that's now being used to win a lot of significant races.
The thing about TOP, though, is that these guys listen to the issues racers have (even if you're not all-world team driver), and consider them carefully. That kind of care doesn't exist anywhere else in our hobby. How many threads dedicated to the various chassis have the engineer of the car show up and say why they made the decisions they did? Are you kidding me?
Anyway, that's about used up my online kindness for the year, so now it's back to being grumpy.
#1331
OK so EJ asked me to post some of my findings in relation to the blade situation. A replaced all of my TOP universals with Hot Bodies 44mm steel universals. unfortunately I had to do a little grinding on the ball end of each universal so that it would fit inside the out-drive, but that was pretty easy. Once I did that I installed Hotbodies blades in the rear of the car and TOP blades (had to ream out the holes) on the front of the car. I ran the car 5 times tonight and did not have one issue with the blades. After some close evaluation of the situation it is clear to me that the length of the universal is the problem and not the blades themselves. Of course this is my personal observation, but I think based on what I have been seeing with the way in which the blades are breaking that is indeed the case.
I am not sure if it has anything to do with the blades hitting the screw assembly or if it is getting caught in the out-drive during universal articulation.
I know that the Tamiya 44mm universals are a direct fit without any required modification, and might be a good option until TOP can release the 44.5mm universals.
I was thinking about the way the cars are shimmed and how that would indeed be a factor. So, I figured I would post what I am running in reference to the 44mm universals.
Front - Front: 0 spacers
Front - Rear: 0 spacers
)))) diff washers
Rear - Front: .75mm spacer
Rear - Rear: 3mm spacer
)))) diff washers
Hope this information helps people, but I am in no way talking for TOP racing, these are my own personal findings.
Thanks,
Art
I am not sure if it has anything to do with the blades hitting the screw assembly or if it is getting caught in the out-drive during universal articulation.
I know that the Tamiya 44mm universals are a direct fit without any required modification, and might be a good option until TOP can release the 44.5mm universals.
I was thinking about the way the cars are shimmed and how that would indeed be a factor. So, I figured I would post what I am running in reference to the 44mm universals.
Front - Front: 0 spacers
Front - Rear: 0 spacers
)))) diff washers
Rear - Front: .75mm spacer
Rear - Rear: 3mm spacer
)))) diff washers
Hope this information helps people, but I am in no way talking for TOP racing, these are my own personal findings.
Thanks,
Art
#1332
#1333
I'm rather fond of using a one way up front.
Is there going to be one available for my Photon ?
Perhaps a 416 one would fit but I would need a pulley for it.
Is there going to be one available for my Photon ?
Perhaps a 416 one would fit but I would need a pulley for it.
#1335