mrrcguy

iTrader: (25)

There has not been much mention of this on the thread but there is something I thought I would touch base on to possibly help prevent a future issue.

There had been some reports of people having issues with the screw that holds the spool drive cups into the spool assembly coming lose. This is why there was a rather odd (compared to the other screws) looking bolt and nut thrown into the first batch of kits. Im not sure how many people actually used this screw, but I feel there is another way.

When building mine what I did is I tapped the spool all the way through from both sides with a 3mm tap. The when inserting the drive cups into the spool it made sure to push them in rather firmly to make absolutely sure they get fully seated. This is important because the fit is quite snug and it would be easy to think that the screw is threaded far enough in when in fact the drive cups may not even be all the way in. Now that the cups are fully seated and you have some good, secure, pre-threaded threads in the spool you can just go ahead and insert the originally supplied screws ( in think the are 10 - 12mm) and you will have no doubt that the screws are properly attached.

I checked mine after 3 runs, again at 8 runs, and again after almost 20 packs, and the cups were still perfect.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

No, my Tamiya clapped out on me so I started running the kimbrough. I have now managed to get full lock with the medium kimbrough though - idiot here set up a new model on the transmitter but forgot the max steering throw is set separately to the steering %

I've now also moved my servo forward to liberate a bit of room. I'm a little worried about how much I took off the bellcrank (I ran out of servo case to dremel), but hopefully the servo saver will compensate nicely

THeGame

Thanks Rick… Your car was butter right out of the box. You need to put some more gear on that motor…

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

Hahaha..

I thought I knew you but I wasn't sure ! Hows the old man bro?
All I can think of is man are we getting old. Racing sure makes it worth while doesn't it ? I've been only able to do one or maybe two big races a year if I'm lucky. Some of your buddies on this thread tell me you've won a couple Oval Champs and others too. Great job man! Maybe I can hit a good carpet track somewhere soon ... NOT CLEVELAND! lol

P.S. K factory has a nice thin servo saver that looks like it would work nicely.

mk2

iTrader: (6)

for the spool the screw i found to work the best is a Quater twenty size its a bit larger than 4-40 and it has a course thred witch bits the plastic hardeder its the screw that associated. uses for there front body mounts for there pan cars works awsome and can be found a local hobby shops or hardware store i have passed this info to ej . thanks to ej and od for putting me on the team hope this helps

fatboy

hi, i'm just wondering anyobe can post a pic to show the battery connector as mine are touching the upper deck ( - ) .

Thanks

Luke Hobson

Hiya

If you look a few pages back.... In the 30's you can see my car with lipo in it, the proper sort with out wires lmao

It's a tight squeeze need the deck but mine just clears....

Worst case scenario is you need to build a extension using a corally male, a battery bar and a corally female tube :-)

Hope that helps
Luke

BagofSkill

Thaks Josh, the support you'r giving on the forums will I'm sure contribute to the cars' success! I think the 'LDC' or ECS shafts worth depends on application and suspension geometry. I've recently run a Schumacher and an Xray and the Schu standard CVDs are monkey tennis and on the Xray they're ok, but the ECS delivers a bit extra on the tight indoor tracks with rubber. I have seen one damaged though.
Maybe the Photon won't need it, but thought I'd ask...

Slick990

Right first weekend with the car and all I can say is WOW

I've always complained that I cannot get a car in to the corner, but with this I can enter the corner at stupid speeds and lines and it just seems to work so well around the front end. Had to make a few changes to the car to tame the steering down, but I didn't want to take the steering away so mainly played round with getting an Ackerman that I felt comfortable with. Ran new and old tyres and found it to be just as good on both, new tyres made the car a bit sluggish in the faster transition corners, so I increased the droop a tad to get the transfer moving

Anyone know hot to host a pdf file so i can upload it?

nocif13

i finish 6th at the french national round 4 with photon

http://top-photon.blogspot.com/

the titanium screw set and belt friction drive are aviable?

marcel p

hello
why are the suspension mount inserts made of ugly and ultra hevy steel.
an not alu as they say in the manual.
sadly i found some disapoindmend in the car.
hope the driving make up with it

marcel p

if i want to turn on the screw off the suspenton mount the insert turns with it so you wil get al uneqal rol center.

Luke Hobson

If it's doing that pal you've built it wrong, with it assembled correctly there is ZERO chance of the insert turning around in the mount....

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

Ahhh... Guess what I discovered last night.... Besides that I TQ'd stupidity Saturday... I had a 21.5 motor and not the 17.5 that I planned on putting in...

And yet it still hung with the stock motors in the infield.......

marcel p

oke wizz kid tel me than wat can i do wrong about that.
instead of simple saying you doing it wrong