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T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car

Old 03-01-2012, 08:28 AM
  #8791  
pmc
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Originally Posted by smilekt
Some question ...

im already using photon at 2010 until now.. it a still very good car .. but now i have some problem .. about steering connering not tight .. what should im looking. im running low grip asphalt
Hello Smilekt

Can you tell wish is your setup right now , then we can tell wish is the changes you can make in the setup.

One photo of the track will be help to.

Best regards:
Pedro Silva
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:07 AM
  #8792  
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Anyone using the TOP lightweight gear diff? There is not much info since I believe most are probably running either the Yokomo BD-5 or Spec R diff.

I plan to use it only for 17.5, boosted sometimes too.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:47 AM
  #8793  
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Originally Posted by Dan
Anyone using the TOP lightweight gear diff? There is not much info since I believe most are probably running either the Yokomo BD-5 or Spec R diff.

I plan to use it only for 17.5, boosted sometimes too.
I suspect people just got sick of rebuilding them with stronger options around, I'm still using one up the front with 200k oil in it, works ok but still not what I'd call that durable in 10.5T Zero.

Apart from anything else with the new EX coming, I'm keen to see a gear diff that is strong and lasts, and does not need awkward shimming and modding to fit properly.

Edit: And credit where credit is due, pulled apart my Yoko diff the other day for a change of fluid, the internals were immaculate, the original oil was perfectly clean and clear, only issue is I let a blade go unchecked too long and chewed a cup out a bit.
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:39 PM
  #8794  
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Originally Posted by bpalmer
the forward part of the crank that bolts to the pivoting part. it also holds the nut. i am also using the aluminum inserts. i am using a medium servo saver. didn't think i was overtightening....but i guess it is possible...
I broke many of these too. What I did that seemed to help was put a rubber oring over the screw so the head of screw was cusioned. The only time I have broken one since is when I miss judged a corner and tore the whole front of the car off. Wood doesn't give.
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:25 PM
  #8795  
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Originally Posted by Dan
Anyone using the TOP lightweight gear diff? There is not much info since I believe most are probably running either the Yokomo BD-5 or Spec R diff.

I plan to use it only for 17.5, boosted sometimes too.
If you re build regularly (Pre-Failure) you should be fine. How long between rebiulds will take some experimentation....

They are light though.... 16g compared to around 26g for a spec r.
if you build it correctly it should last a while. Mine all tended to leak...
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:28 PM
  #8796  
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On another note, the belts in my car are around a year and a half old. I guess they have stretched a little. Can old belts cause the drivetrain to become less efficient? I'm thinking the larger distance between teeth could cause some binding...
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:17 PM
  #8797  
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I think my scales used to get like 18g for the Micro diff, and 21g for the Yoko, but the Yoko does come with alloy cups.
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:26 AM
  #8798  
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I found some steel outdrives that Yokomo makes for their gear diff no more c blades. I am looking forward to the new TOP diff. Has anyone been using the white low friction belts? I'm running 17.5 blinky and I'm looking for an advantage.
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:38 AM
  #8799  
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Originally Posted by Bishop
Edit: And credit where credit is due, pulled apart my Yoko diff the other day for a change of fluid, the internals were immaculate, the original oil was perfectly clean and clear, only issue is I let a blade go unchecked too long and chewed a cup out a bit.
the best blades for the yokomo gear diff (or the top ball diff) are a self modified version of the Associated Factory Team CVA Bone Blade TC5 / TC6 (pn 31238). two changes are required:

#1 a light sanding on the sides of make the blade thinner
#2 drilling out the blade pin hole so the drive shaft can be installed

these blades are amazingly strong. they hold up better than the xray blades that we use with our xray ecs shafts in my Side Piece Racing Mira outdrives. maybe i should switch the Mira outdrives to use these Associated blades? gotta see if that would work. i much rather buy a pack of 8-10 blades for $4 instead of 4 blades for $6 from xray.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:17 AM
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Default Drilling out AE Bone Blades

Measuring the pins on quite a few TOP dogbones, I find that they're usually between .079-.081, and often different on one side than the other. Perhaps that's because of the way that they're fit into the bone end in the press.

I use a #45(.810) or a #46(.820) as the best drill bits for opening the holes on AE bone blades for use with TOP dogbones due to the springiness of the plastic and the variability of the pins.

I like 'em just to where it fits easily snug, but not tight, on the pin. I make 'em to where they swing freely when moved with a finger tip, but not under it's own weight. It loosens up just a touch during the first run and is perfect from there until it breaks.

AE bone blades last a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG time in this application!
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:32 PM
  #8801  
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Default Photon EX

Hello Guys,

Thanks for the patience on the EX. Photos will be released soon along with a power point presentation highlighting some of the new features. some items have changed since the original prototype pictures.

After we release the pics Iíll give everyone a rundown of whatís new.

YES it will include our new gear diff!

Oh.....and the price is slightly less then the original Photon
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by E.J. Evans
YES it will include our new gear diff!

Oh.....and the price is slightly less then the original Photon
Best.news.ever!

WINNING!
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by E.J. Evans
Hello Guys,

Thanks for the patience on the EX. Photos will be released soon along with a power point presentation highlighting some of the new features. some items have changed since the original prototype pictures.

After we release the pics Iíll give everyone a rundown of whatís new.

YES it will include our new gear diff!

Oh.....and the price is slightly less then the original Photon
Less than the original!!! Say what?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! Thats some pimp juice right there.
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:50 PM
  #8804  
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Originally Posted by E.J. Evans
Hello Guys,

Thanks for the patience on the EX. Photos will be released soon along with a power point presentation highlighting some of the new features. some items have changed since the original prototype pictures.

After we release the pics Iíll give everyone a rundown of whatís new.

YES it will include our new gear diff!

Oh.....and the price is slightly less then the original Photon
just keeps getting better-the wait has been worth while
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:50 PM
  #8805  
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Originally Posted by hanulec
the best blades for the yokomo gear diff (or the top ball diff) are a self modified version of the Associated Factory Team CVA Bone Blade TC5 / TC6 (pn 31238).
Originally Posted by Buckaroo
AE bone blades last a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG time in this application!
I guess I should try some, really the mildly chewed cup was my own fault, cause I tried using the Yoko blades, turns out they suck, it did have sanded down TOP blades in there, which were holding up fine, but when changing to fresh ones I was too lazy to sand down another set so tried the Yoko.

For the record, Yoko ones look to have failed cause the pin holes are a little large for the TOP pins, so hammered through from play in the worst possible spot.

Originally Posted by E.J. Evans
YES it will include our new gear diff!

Oh.....and the price is slightly less then the original Photon
I made an excitement in my pants...

No one take this the wrong way, but I was wondering if the price would drop cause the new TA 6.1 is good, and cheap, it's not up to the TOP on quality, but I'm fighting a hoard of them suddenly at my track, plus I drove a friends last meet, and it was very good on track.

Don't know if this can be confirmed or not yet with the new model, but I have various sway bars, belts etc, and wondered if much will carry over?, even shocks etc?, would be nice to get a new kit and end up with a handy amount of spares from breaking down the old car rather than selling it off.
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