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T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car

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T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car

Old 02-12-2012, 05:57 PM
  #8761  
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Speedtechrc.com sells TOP parts.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:27 PM
  #8762  
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Originally Posted by 18SS
does the photon have a 1 way diff. is there anyway i can get one or does another car have one that will just drop in?
There are actually 4 different one-ways:

PO-PDT007RD Standard One-Way

PO-PDT0R7RD Reverse One-Way (for flipped Belts)

PO-PDT008RD Heavy Duty One-Way, Std

PO-PDT0R8RD Heavy Duty One-Way, Reverse (for flipped belts)

The standard one-ways are more than adequate for stock, the heavy duty version is recommended for mod.

In stock at TOP USA
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:33 PM
  #8763  
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Originally Posted by jdearhart
I'm looking for two sets (8 shocks) of the V2 shocks. Amain only has one set in stock. Are there any other online sites that sell TOP parts? Or, should I just try TOP USA?
In stock at TOP USA
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:11 AM
  #8764  
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I will be running the 1 way in my photon drift car. so i think im going to go with the heavy duty one
in my tc car i run gear diff front and rear
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:16 AM
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i have found them
what would be the best application for drifting
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:40 AM
  #8766  
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hi guys had some mixed success with the photon this weekend: seems the car is VERY sensitive to set up changes so its imperative you get your setup dialled and stick to it - the car will do the rest.

i race a 17.5 on asphalt and i have some questions:

i have a 48 pitch spur gear now, do you think changing to a 64 Pitch spur gear option would allow me to put a larger spur gear into the car and hence allow for more punch? i was taught that a larger spur gear makes the car "Spool" quicker and hence more punchy?

for the main i laid the shocks down to hole 2 on the rear shock tower but it seemed the car lost traction like that - the guys all had great traction in the day so it wasnt the track. i needed more of the back of the car to hold in the in-field.

would a gear diff give me more corner speed? i have a chilled driving style and was fighting the car for punch (ESC tekin RS pro, 222, high boost, orion 90c batts etc).

how do i reduce rotating mass on the photon? anything pulleys i could mill etc etc?

my car was also very unstable at high speed on the straight - how can i make the car more speed dependable?

great car and im keen to keep working with it this year in 17.5 - i just need a free'er drive train - anythoughts?
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:42 AM
  #8767  
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@Sage, I think you'll need to list your current setup before you can get any advice on what to change.

Message me your email address and I'll send you the setup Danie is running on his Photon in 17.5
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:13 AM
  #8768  
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Originally Posted by sagejyoung
hi guys had some mixed success with the photon this weekend: seems the car is VERY sensitive to set up changes so its imperative you get your setup dialled and stick to it - the car will do the rest.

i race a 17.5 on asphalt and i have some questions:

i have a 48 pitch spur gear now, do you think changing to a 64 Pitch spur gear option would allow me to put a larger spur gear into the car and hence allow for more punch? i was taught that a larger spur gear makes the car "Spool" quicker and hence more punchy?

for the main i laid the shocks down to hole 2 on the rear shock tower but it seemed the car lost traction like that - the guys all had great traction in the day so it wasnt the track. i needed more of the back of the car to hold in the in-field.

would a gear diff give me more corner speed? i have a chilled driving style and was fighting the car for punch (ESC tekin RS pro, 222, high boost, orion 90c batts etc).

how do i reduce rotating mass on the photon? anything pulleys i could mill etc etc?

my car was also very unstable at high speed on the straight - how can i make the car more speed dependable?

great car and im keen to keep working with it this year in 17.5 - i just need a free'er drive train - anythoughts?
I've always felt the Photon has a distinct stability/understeer tendency - if you are having problems with rear end stability on the straights () I would be looking at the build of the car - or a VERY odd setup.

The only difference a larger spur is going to make to the car is in your head. Choose a spur that lets you gear the car the way you need to. I would stick with 48dp.

As far as drivetrain efficiency goes, I don't think the parts on the car are overweight by any means. The only issue I can think of is the tightness of the front belt, even fully loose it is quite tight on the car. To solve it I would look for a one tooth longer front belt from another car (no idea if such a belt exists though), or swapping the centre pulleys for the 19T ones from the Sakura Zero.

Gear diff is a personal preference. They have a different feel, but once you have found the right oil/grease to fill it with you will be happy, the main benefit being that they don't slip and will need a lot less maintenance.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:50 AM
  #8769  
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Originally Posted by Skitee
@Sage, I think you'll need to list your current setup before you can get any advice on what to change.

Message me your email address and I'll send you the setup Danie is running on his Photon in 17.5
Originally Posted by sosidge
I've always felt the Photon has a distinct stability/understeer tendency - if you are having problems with rear end stability on the straights () I would be looking at the build of the car - or a VERY odd setup.

The only difference a larger spur is going to make to the car is in your head. Choose a spur that lets you gear the car the way you need to. I would stick with 48dp.

As far as drivetrain efficiency goes, I don't think the parts on the car are overweight by any means. The only issue I can think of is the tightness of the front belt, even fully loose it is quite tight on the car. To solve it I would look for a one tooth longer front belt from another car (no idea if such a belt exists though), or swapping the centre pulleys for the 19T ones from the Sakura Zero.

Gear diff is a personal preference. They have a different feel, but once you have found the right oil/grease to fill it with you will be happy, the main benefit being that they don't slip and will need a lot less maintenance.
thanks - message sent.


Sosidge - thanks there are a few changes i can make and i also thought the front belt was too tight, once it looses should be able to allow more (free'er) rotation.


will also stick to the spur gear options i have at the moment.


thanks for the reply fellas
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:04 AM
  #8770  
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Default advice ...maybe ?

so i went through a few weeks last summer where on a weekly basis i would break my lower ackerman plate. so about august that quit and i didn't break anything until 2 weeks ago. since then i have been through 4 of those ackerman plates. (50 cent piece that comes in the 12.00 bag) as you know you have to buy the bell crank set(or do you ?).It is not hitting the spool. is there something i could be doing wrong on the install? it really seems like it is very slight taps that are causing the issue.( i know stop hitting crap). I know that there is a 35.00 upgrade to this that is alloy and carbon graphite. is it worth the 35.00 ? Or will i just start breaking something else?
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bpalmer
so i went through a few weeks last summer where on a weekly basis i would break my lower ackerman plate. so about august that quit and i didn't break anything until 2 weeks ago. since then i have been through 4 of those ackerman plates. (50 cent piece that comes in the 12.00 bag) as you know you have to buy the bell crank set(or do you ?).It is not hitting the spool. is there something i could be doing wrong on the install? it really seems like it is very slight taps that are causing the issue.( i know stop hitting crap). I know that there is a 35.00 upgrade to this that is alloy and carbon graphite. is it worth the 35.00 ? Or will i just start breaking something else?
Which bit do you mean? The numbered inserts? Or the forward part of the crank that bolts to the pivoting part? Or something else entirely?

Are you running a servo saver? It's possible that the plate you mention is acting as the weak link instead. Also, are you overtightening the parts? That will also weaken them. Just hand tight with threadlock to hold them is enough.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by sosidge
Which bit do you mean? The numbered inserts? Or the forward part of the crank that bolts to the pivoting part? Or something else entirely?

Are you running a servo saver? It's possible that the plate you mention is acting as the weak link instead. Also, are you overtightening the parts? That will also weaken them. Just hand tight with threadlock to hold them is enough.
the forward part of the crank that bolts to the pivoting part. it also holds the nut. i am also using the aluminum inserts. i am using a medium servo saver. didn't think i was overtightening....but i guess it is possible...
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:00 AM
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I've been using the King Hedz bellcrank and the Tamale steering piece with TOP aluminum ackerman inserts and aluminum steering knuckles with a Kimbrough medium servo saver and a Savox 1251 servo on two different cars. I've smacked everything that stands still at least 3 times, and chased down and smacked everything that moves at least twice. Have yet to do anything other than bend the arm on the steering knuckle.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by bpalmer
the forward part of the crank that bolts to the pivoting part. it also holds the nut. i am also using the aluminum inserts. i am using a medium servo saver. didn't think i was overtightening....but i guess it is possible...
I wonder whether switching back to the plastic inserts might help. I always ran the front of my car all plastic with a Kimbrough or Tamiya saver, never had any breakages. I don't crash that much, but I do crash.
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo
I've been using the King Hedz bellcrank and the Tamale steering piece with TOP aluminum ackerman inserts and aluminum steering knuckles with a Kimbrough medium servo saver and a Savox 1251 servo on two different cars. I've smacked everything that stands still at least 3 times, and chased down and smacked everything that moves at least twice. Have yet to do anything other than bend the arm on the steering knuckle.
do you have a link on the tamale piece as google was no help to me
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