T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#7591

I am using a futaba low profile servo. The thing that I notice is that the servo seems to not have enough throw when turned to the right. I will go back and look at the servo horn directions in the manual. That may be my issue.
Thanks,
Chris
#7592

Yes, I am running on a semi smooth parking lot track with low to medium traction. I am using the kingzhead bellcrank with a 9, but it doesnt seem to hit anything. And there doesnt seem to be any binding on the servo saver.
I am using a futaba low profile servo. The thing that I notice is that the servo seems to not have enough throw when turned to the right. I will go back and look at the servo horn directions in the manual. That may be my issue.
Thanks,
Chris
I am using a futaba low profile servo. The thing that I notice is that the servo seems to not have enough throw when turned to the right. I will go back and look at the servo horn directions in the manual. That may be my issue.
Thanks,
Chris
#7593

While we are talking about it, how many degrees of steering are you guys getting? I get about 16, but rarely race with full throw. I've found that in ideal conditions, I'm using about 12-13 degrees of steering.
#7594

Could have sworn last I checked mine was getting 24 deg or so, can't check that though cause I had borrowed a setup station, still don't own one.
I actually use a great deal of my steering now, could be because I also run a front gear diff, meaning you can really use all it.
I actually use a great deal of my steering now, could be because I also run a front gear diff, meaning you can really use all it.
#7595
Tech Addict

a few things that give more steering/steering lock...
test these combinations and you'll be able to get enough lock and also enough steering on the track.
- spec-r yokomo ecs shafts (must use xray c-hubs though)
- dremel the stop from the standard steering arm
- dremel a notch into the steering arm where it hits
- use ackerman insert 9..
- try a harder spring on the back of the car
- try a higher roll centre on the back of the car.
test these combinations and you'll be able to get enough lock and also enough steering on the track.
#7596

any difference driving & handling performance narrow vs standard main chassis ?
#7597
Tech Addict
#7600


I've never run bars on my photon -- not even 100% sure how to put them together. I think the car as has such good forward bite that you can run setups that would drive other cars to simply do donuts as at least my photon is sprung with hard springs as compared to XRay or Tamiya you typically find.
#7601
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)

when i first got the photon i built the car as per instructions with bars,(had run bars on previous xrays & tamiya's) as was everyone else using bars, but when i removed them i found that the car was sooooo much better & havnt used them since.along with some other changes iv'e found this car by far the easiest & most consistant car that iv'e ever had & it seems to work well with only minor changes from track to track so TWF ditch the bars i think you will be pleasantly surprised
#7602

explain to me why longer rear camber links gave me much better rear traction.
#7603

Damn all you guys with the prototype narrow chassis :P
I tried to get Martin's when he switched to orange. I contacted him the weekend after, but he had already sold it.
Cyrul, if you are reading this, make some more of those narrow chassis and sell them through cefxspeedshop. I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants one. I actually want two of them.
I tried to get Martin's when he switched to orange. I contacted him the weekend after, but he had already sold it.

Cyrul, if you are reading this, make some more of those narrow chassis and sell them through cefxspeedshop. I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants one. I actually want two of them.

