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Old 08-14-2010, 04:29 PM   #5266
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THats awesome , Im not the only one with the great results
I agree. I'm looking for some 120k to try out, but the car was pretty good today. No complaints on the handling.
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:01 PM   #5267
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Tony, your car did look better with the gear diffs. Laptimes were the puddin proof. Cant wait till the next race!
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Old 08-14-2010, 06:31 PM   #5268
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I agree. I'm looking for some 120k to try out, but the car was pretty good today. No complaints on the handling.
The 120,000 is the ticket
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:48 PM   #5269
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I run 120,000 OFNA Diff Lock Fuid in the front and OFNA 10,000 in the rear and its working Really good on carpet
really need to run so thick oil ???
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:59 PM   #5270
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Anyone hear when Top USA will have kits in stock?
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Old 08-14-2010, 11:58 PM   #5271
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Around 25th release again !
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Old 08-15-2010, 12:51 AM   #5272
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anyone need a gear diff? i have one forsale.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...gear-diff.html

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Old 08-15-2010, 01:10 AM   #5273
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Ran/raced my photon for the first time today

car seemed pretty good, very predictable and forgiving
I think it will improve once I fit my rear swaybar and a better body shell
(still gotta get a new threaded swaybar collar as the kit one busted)

only problem I had was on the high speed sweeper leading onto the main straight I clipped the curbing and got the back end to step out, and was clipped from behind by another car
I didn't think it was a bad hit at first but closer inspection revealed that the camber link ball stud had ripped out of the rear hub

does anyone run the alloy rear hubs or just the plastic?
As I didn't think that, that small a hit should of caused that to happen
so was thinkin maybe the alloy would be stronger?

Cheers
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:58 AM   #5274
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The alloy hubs work well but there is a little trick to help protect the plastic ones a little better. Put a small set screw in the empty hole on the hub. It will strengthen the bridge between the two holes and help prevent that type of damage.
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:01 AM   #5275
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Originally Posted by paraletic View Post
Ran/raced my photon for the first time today

only problem I had was on the high speed sweeper leading onto the main straight I clipped the curbing and got the back end to step out, and was clipped from behind by another car
I didn't think it was a bad hit at first but closer inspection revealed that the camber link ball stud had ripped out of the rear hub

does anyone run the alloy rear hubs or just the plastic?

Cheers
I also had my first shakedown session today! I also had a tap from another driver and the camber link ball stud was ripped out as well.. at the time I didn't have a grub screw in the other hole.... On inspection you can see that without the grub screw the flex allows the ball stud to be ripped easily.

I've since added the grub screw...

I was really happy with the handling and grip from the stock asphalt setup. Looking forward to my first race at meakin park (brisbane AUS) in 2 weeks!

Also found that you can over tighten the wheel nuts hex causing the hex to deform, which results in a wobble in the wheel.. I fixed it by using a dremel grinding tool to make the wheel hex flat again....
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:09 AM   #5276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paraletic View Post
does anyone run the alloy rear hubs or just the plastic?
As I didn't think that, that small a hit should of caused that to happen
so was thinkin maybe the alloy would be stronger?

Cheers

If you can get a set, run the alloy hubs, just for piece of minds sake. Its not essential, but i've found so far we're chasing a bit of steering so that little bit of extra stiffness in the rear wont hurt. As has been mentioned, the only other 'trick' so to speak for the stock hubs is to put a grub screw in the spare hole, and that helps alot.

I'm replying to your pm too, busy weekend lol sorry

Cheers

Robbie
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:24 AM   #5277
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Thanks Tony, thanks Robbie

I'll throw a grub screw into the next rear hub I get
as for the alloys I'll maybe hav to wait as I jus put an order in with top aust so prob to late to add that now

Rob
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:31 AM   #5278
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Default Damper Problem.

Do anyone has problem of damper stiffening up after letting it sit stationery for about 5 minutes?

This problem goes away when I pump the arms at full travel a few times, but after about 5 mins it comes back.

This problem exhibits itself even if the car is being driven around on the track.

I have tried changing the O-rings to TRF blue ones, even tried with Tamiya gold color shafts.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:13 AM   #5279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old-man View Post
Do anyone has problem of damper stiffening up after letting it sit stationery for about 5 minutes?

This problem goes away when I pump the arms at full travel a few times, but after about 5 mins it comes back.

This problem exhibits itself even if the car is being driven around on the track.

I have tried changing the O-rings to TRF blue ones, even tried with Tamiya gold color shafts.
do you use brake cleaner to clean the shocks ?.
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Last edited by marcel p; 08-15-2010 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:21 AM   #5280
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NEVER SPRAY ANYTHING ON SHOCKS. Just dump the oil out and let them sit upside down for like 10 minutes and refill with something else. If you spray anything on the shock replace take the oring out or replace it.
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