R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-29-2010, 01:27 PM   #5071
Tech Elite
 
BoneCrusher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 2,196
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the quick answers Tony and the set up Larry!

Just a follow up regarding the shocks. At our track, I generally run 17.5. Are you guys using stiffer springs because you guys are running faster lower turn motors therefore the stiffer springs reduce body roll? And if I were to use softer springs, can I get away with using thicker oil instead? If youíve got a simple explanation that would be great.

Regarding the aluminum steering blocks and the rear hole being in a different position. Can that be fixed by using a different steer length position on the bell crank? I would like to get the aluminum one for durability and also when you buy the plastic spares, they come as a package with the rear hub but Iím assuming that doesnít break as often and I donít need that many extra.

Thanks,

Ivan
__________________
ARC R10, 12R5.1, Tamiya Mini, MTS FFv2 Pro, Exotek F1
carcar.ca
BoneCrusher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2010, 05:44 PM   #5072
Tech Master
 
pcar951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cow Town
Posts: 1,706
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
The problem I have with the Aluminum steering blocks is the rear hole in them for the steering link is in a different spot than the stock ones and Schreff and I always use the rear hole in the plastic blocks on rubber tires. So you have to watch out for that. Every setup I have ever posted uses this rear hole on the stock blocks, the aluminum one changes the ackerman a lot.
Good to know. I've been using the front hole on the plastic blocks as per the base setup ....I thought the car felt goofy mid corner to exit. Would that be the result??
__________________
Jim Chapman
PM Hobbycraft | RCAmerica | Xray | Hudy
pcar951 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2010, 03:49 PM   #5073
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
Default set up info ...needed..

hi i may have missed it but what do you set the droop on , wishbone , hub etc im using the hudy droop gauge , also what about shock lengh , i cant find that mentioned anywhere.......

cheers
shaun207 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2010, 04:27 PM   #5074
Tech Regular
 
Luppi Stefano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 490
Default

have a question for yours, how do you tighten the pinion? I can't find space to insert the key...it's new lipo Chassis 2,25
under chassis, there is a hole in spur gear area, but I can't tighten pinion very well...
__________________
Team Capricorn Italy
Lab F1-01
Luppi Stefano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2010, 04:27 PM   #5075
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 3,865
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaun207 View Post
hi i may have missed it but what do you set the droop on , wishbone , hub etc im using the hudy droop gauge , also what about shock lengh , i cant find that mentioned anywhere.......

cheers
Build the shocks to the "normal" length, it's fine - just don't try and tighten the bottoms all the way up the thread, they won't go that far without damage! A few threads will be visible but they will be concealed by the spring cup.

Droop is normally measured to the bottom of the loop on the rear hub, and to the outer lower edge of the front wishbone. For outdoors/rubber, I would personally start at 0 rear/5 front. For carpet/rubber I would go to 1 rear/6 front.
sosidge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2010, 04:43 PM   #5076
Tech Champion
 
Nova F1 Racer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Peoples Republic of Northern Virginia
Posts: 5,682
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Setups..

http://www.tchub.info/
__________________
This is DICK!!! And you're NOT!
RC Tech member #11
Aussie Rules Footy, Brisbane LIONS!!
[url]http://www.pitter-pat.com/[/url] for pet care needs in Northern Virginia
Nova F1 Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2010, 01:14 AM   #5077
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Build the shocks to the "normal" length, it's fine - just don't try and tighten the bottoms all the way up the thread, they won't go that far without damage! A few threads will be visible but they will be concealed by the spring cup.

Droop is normally measured to the bottom of the loop on the rear hub, and to the outer lower edge of the front wishbone. For outdoors/rubber, I would personally start at 0 rear/5 front. For carpet/rubber I would go to 1 rear/6 front.
cheers sosidge ..

im running this one indoors , for the rear droop i normaly take the rear hub off and measure on the rear arm and on the front to the c-hub ..

my photon has been going well , but last night was my 4th meeting and my worst !!! .... mostly , all fault of my own .... and not being able to concentrate ( i was knackered !! ) ... cheers
shaun207 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2010, 07:36 AM   #5078
Tech Regular
 
LARRY F SR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: pa.
Posts: 328
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
have a question for yours, how do you tighten the pinion? I can't find space to insert the key...it's new lipo Chassis 2,25
under chassis, there is a hole in spur gear area, but I can't tighten pinion very well...


i use a long hex wrench and go on an angle from the center of the top deck
__________________
T.o.p. USA - Photon - EX - S4 - Rebel 12
The Beaver raceway - Horsham raceway - Jackson rc racing - Austintown Hobby
LARRY F SR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2010, 10:42 AM   #5079
Tech Addict
 
dbmartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 641
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

I just picked up one of these cars, I need to order some parts. I am confused on the difference between v2 and v3 drive shafts, the difference between the 3mm collar washers and the wide 3mm collars. Also what does changing the o-ring in the shocks accomplish?
Thanks in advance
__________________
FSEARA - Top Photon - Jacks Hobbies
dbmartin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2010, 07:06 PM   #5080
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 27,211
Trader Rating: 182 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbmartin View Post
I just picked up one of these cars, I need to order some parts. I am confused on the difference between v2 and v3 drive shafts, the difference between the 3mm collar washers and the wide 3mm collars. Also what does changing the o-ring in the shocks accomplish?
Thanks in advance
Thats awesome Dave!! the car is great , I ran mine today at out new Indoor carpet track and its Dialed!! Im running the gear diff in the rear and I will be testing the gear diff in the front next week ( as soon as I get my pulley)
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2010, 09:24 PM   #5081
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,192
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbmartin View Post
I just picked up one of these cars, I need to order some parts. I am confused on the difference between v2 and v3 drive shafts, the difference between the 3mm collar washers and the wide 3mm collars. Also what does changing the o-ring in the shocks accomplish?
Thanks in advance
The V2 axles have 2 universal pin holes, V3 have 4, and are interchangable. The dogbones are the same.

The Ultra Wide Collars are used under the suspension mounts to adjust toe. The small od collars are used to adjust camber link height.

Some racers prefer the 40 durometer 'o'rings to the stock 30's. On the V1 shocks they seem to leak less. On the V2 shocks we use the 30's
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 05:36 PM   #5082
Tech Master
 
PDX-Spike's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 42
Posts: 1,440
Default Shocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
...
Some racers prefer the 40 durometer 'o'rings to the stock 30's. On the V1 shocks they seem to leak less. On the V2 shocks we use the 30's
Gathering info while waiting for my Photon to arrive.

The statement above make me wonder if Xray 10th sedan shocks can be used with the Photon.
__________________
Roger Christal - Team Timezone (Hooligans), Rose City Scale Racing, ROAR Member until 9/16/2012
Support the locals: Timezone Raceway, Timezone II, R/C Plus, Portland RC Raceway
McKune Design, Slapmaster Tools, Houston's Engine Service
PDX-Spike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 05:53 PM   #5083
Tech Master
 
Ron Goetter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Goatsville, PA
Posts: 1,950
Trader Rating: 17 (95%+)
Send a message via AIM to Ron Goetter
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
Gathering info while waiting for my Photon to arrive.

The statement above make me wonder if Xray 10th sedan shocks can be used with the Photon.
No need for that. The V2 shocks feel better then a Tamiya shock imo and leak no oil.
__________________
The Goat... B-Mainer Fo' life
-Awesomatix USA-ROCHE USA-Team CRC-ORCA-SIDE PIECE RACING-TEAM DAK-EA Motorsports-VP Fuel-Trains and Lanes-CR Graphics-TQ Wire-Horsham RC-rugburn anyone?
Shut up and Race!!!!
Ron Goetter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 06:18 PM   #5084
Tech Master
 
PDX-Spike's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 42
Posts: 1,440
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Goetter View Post
No need for that. The V2 shocks feel better then a Tamiya shock imo and leak no oil.
OK...but I already have two sets of Xray shocks and all the springs I need.
__________________
Roger Christal - Team Timezone (Hooligans), Rose City Scale Racing, ROAR Member until 9/16/2012
Support the locals: Timezone Raceway, Timezone II, R/C Plus, Portland RC Raceway
McKune Design, Slapmaster Tools, Houston's Engine Service
PDX-Spike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 07:00 PM   #5085
Tech Elite
 
L.Fairtrace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Beyond the Wall
Posts: 3,774
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to L.Fairtrace
Default

The new kits come with the v2 shocks. And if you run xray shocks you'll never be able to use any setups posted on here because getting the shocks to feel the same as the kit shocks will be basically impossible.

And I cant explain how important it is to get your shocks feeling right on this car. It makes a world of difference.
__________________
Awesomatix USA - EaMotorsports - RocheUSA - MonTech - Sanwa - BSR Racing Tires - TQ Wire - Solaris Racing Tires - Side Piece Racing

180 and 360 Raceway. Best on the East Coast. Take your pick
L.Fairtrace is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:27 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net