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Old 12-07-2003, 03:12 PM   #31
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The peltiers are using in computers on the graphics and processor, combined with water cooling as one side of the peltier gets very cold, and the other very hot, where the copper heatsink with water flowing through it removes the heat.
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:40 PM   #32
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Default Re: Orlando Based Motor Chillers

Quote:
Originally posted by proedge
Hey Tim, thanks for the good words. The guys at Superior saw this forum and knew I was being talked about and told me to post something. This motor chiller works off any 12V power supply, or 12V no less than 7amp gel cell battery. The unit pulls about 4-5 amps and *will not work* with a race pack so do not try it, it may ruin the pack!? The motor chiller will strap right to the motor still in the car, others just remove the motor chill it and then put it back in just before you race. Take a look at the Picture. To use the cold side of a Peltier chip you must remove as much of the heat from the hot side as you can. The move heat you remove the better proformance you will get from these chips. Right know I have two units left if anyone is interested in them they are $50 dollars plus $5 to ship them. Questions Email me ([email protected]) Tim, We had our little girl 11/25/03 she & Mom are doing just fine, how is Less's Baby doing? See ya guys after a little RC break.
Kent:

Congratulations on the new addition, hope that you and your family are doing great. I hope to see you at RPM when we open.
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Old 12-09-2003, 08:13 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
people have tried them on PC's and find they aren't worth the effort, and PC modders don't mind a bit of effort to be different, as long as it works....
Actually, you're incorrect there - at this point, the top water cooled mods are using peltiers on the proc and water cooling to chill the hot-side of the peltier. They are achieving very high overclocking rates with those.

Your very statement says it all - "as long as it works" - and it does.

But in an RC car? power consumption is just too high.
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Old 12-09-2003, 09:57 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by berger
The peltiers are using in computers on the graphics and processor, combined with water cooling as one side of the peltier gets very cold, and the other very hot, where the copper heatsink with water flowing through it removes the heat.
Beat you to it boomer, look above Ive got a 72W Peltier somewhere about and a spare large computer heatsink and fan. 72W is low power so a heatsink with only air cooling should be enough, does anyone have a formula or can tell me how many Amps at 12V my pelt will use?
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Old 12-09-2003, 02:31 PM   #35
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6 amps. Volts x Amps = Watts

Watts/volts=amps
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Old 12-12-2003, 10:04 PM   #36
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O.K. This "thing" works great! I just finished fabricating a motor cooler for myself. I got a CPU heatsink/fan combo at computer store ($6) and a TEC/Peltier chip from the guy on ebay (posted previouly $4.99 + $6.50 shipping). I had to fab the cool side plate and motor clip. I was very surprised at the results. I started with air temp in garage at 62 degrees(motor in car at 62 degrees) clipped the thing on and hooked it up to 12volt power supply, it was pulling about 6.5amps. After about 20 min. I hit the motor with temp gun and it read "39 degrees"!!! There was frost all over it! Thats a 23 degree difference. Pretty impressive for under $20. I'm gonna race this weekend, and do some temp testing, I'll post again.
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Old 12-12-2003, 10:08 PM   #37
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That is awsome.
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Old 12-23-2003, 11:00 PM   #38
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O.K. I have made three different proto-types of a pre-race motor coolers using "peltier" chips. I have found sources for all the parts locally (or on ebay). In bench tests have been able to get a 60 degree tempeture differential- start at room temp (70degrees) and can get the temp on the cold side to 10 degrees in about 45 minutes--all this using a 12vdc powersupply pulling 10amps--I havent taken a motor down that low yet, for fear of cracking magnets! I have got motors down to 35 degrees using less amps (6 amps) and then pulled cooler off and done 5 min race simulations in my cul-de-sac. I am averaging 30 degree lower temp on motor when done, as opposed to starting with motor at ambient temp. And am not experiencing the normal "fade" related to when the motor gets real hot, at about the 4 minute mark. It just hasent been that warm here (San Diego), only in to the mid 60's. I cant wait for some warmer weather to test some more. I'll keep testing and let ya know! May be on to something here!
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Old 12-24-2003, 08:52 AM   #39
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degrees.
I suppose you're talking Fahrenheit.
How much is that in Celcius?

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Old 12-24-2003, 09:03 AM   #40
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35F is 2C. I have an old peltier and what i am finding hard to do is to get an efficient way to transfer heat from the cold surface to the actual motor i wish to cool.
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Old 12-24-2003, 12:30 PM   #41
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Yes, Fahrenheit.

My first proto-type, I used a 1 1/4" copper coupling(cut in half) epoxied to an aluminum plate then samwiched the "peltier" between the plate and heatsink. I used nylon bolts as connectors, so as not to transfer heat to the cold side cold and vice-versa. I also used thermal conductive paste on each side of "peltier" and between plate & copper. I have spent considerable time and $ fabricating the cold side clip & plate out of aluminum, but test results show better result's using the copper at the motor. I am not an engineer (just a guy in his garage, late at nite) so all these testing results are rudemetary. Just having fun with it!
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Old 12-24-2003, 12:34 PM   #42
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Copper is a better material to absorb heat, aluminum can give it off better, which is why you get copper based heatsinks with aluminum fins. I used a layer of arctic silver 3 between the hot side and my heatsink as well to aid in cooling, then epoxided the peltier to the heatsink at the edges.
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Old 12-24-2003, 11:47 PM   #43
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I also used the "Arctic Silver 3" compond between all interfaces. I have found that if I put a 1/4" copper plate against the "cold side" of the peltier, then epoxy the copper motor clip to it, that I get the best results. It seems the "peltier" likes to "work", so the more it has to cool, the colder it gets!
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Old 01-03-2004, 12:22 AM   #44
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Today I tried my newest prototype and the results were impressive. I have 2 "peltier" chips side by side and a larger heatsink and 70 cfm fan. I put it on the motor in a TC3 and then the phone rang (sometimes life gets in the way!), when I got back to my project (aprox 45 min. later) the cooler, the motor, the pinion gear, even the wires to the esc were covered in ice. The temp was at 6 degrees F. It even iced up the chassis and alum shaft (the shaft was not even touching, aprox 3/8" away). Anyway the effects of starting a race with a super-cool motor are advantages, to say the least! I will keep tinker'n with this project, and will let some of my racing coleages do some testing also. I'll keep posting as I learn more.
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Old 01-03-2004, 01:26 AM   #45
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Sounds interesting, how about posting a pic of the unit so we can see it compared to the others that have appeared.

I am working on a couple versions of this type of unit, but my main unit doesn't work in the car.


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