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Old 03-09-2009, 05:27 AM   #1
frk
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Unhappy HB CYCLONE TC REAR TOES CHASSIS WRONG?

Hello, Im Franck from Florence Italy.
We are a group of friends joints all to the same conclusion (we have all HB CYCLONE TC).
We asserts that the convergence (toe) in the posterior zone of the cyclone TC is asymmetric. (left itís different to right) of some degree.
The holes on the chassis for the rear pivot blocks, are constructed (intentionally ?) asymmetric, and they provoke to an asymmetric convergence between right and left (difference of one/two degree minimum).
You can verify with a simply set up station...
Are constructed badly all the chassis, or, all the pivot?
Have you noticed this problem?
In the Cyclone WCE chassis they are no difference from left and right, it's ok
This question is discussed in a great forum in Italy, we attend all an answer from HB.
I attend your answers and considerations
Sorry for my English

Thanks
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Old 03-09-2009, 05:48 AM   #2
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Hello.

For some reason the Cyclone TC kits came with rear uprights that had the holes not aligned properly. ive had the same problem my self.
There is a mod you can do to fix this problem by drilling out a couple of holes in the upright and adding grub screws...ive seen it on this forum. im sure some one can explain it.

or the other option is to buy replacement uprights. ive heard the spares have had no problems.
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Old 03-09-2009, 06:23 AM   #3
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yes i read that most of cyclone tc came with missdrilled part from the factory. either buy aluminum replacement or try finding the new fixed hubs.
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Old 03-09-2009, 12:16 PM   #4
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I am shocked
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Old 03-25-2009, 08:30 PM   #5
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Alum hubs have not fixed this, neither has swapping left to right hubs over which should fix it or change it if it where the problem, but it doesnt.
So the problem is still there.

Can HB please make a left and right hub that adds 0.5 degree and say 1 degree

then you could just put this on one side and fix the issue once and for all.

After spending countless hours on my car over the last two years i can not get it to go staright under power perfectly or go straight when coasting unless i add in trim which makes wheels look slightly crooked, im sure its the fact that one side has more toe than the other.


I have balanced with weights, triple checked for all tweak, everything humanly posible apart from being able to fix the rear toe issue.

I like my car setup perfect, and it seems i cant fix this problem, I am seriuosly considering changing brands of chassis, and i have been a loyal HB Customer for many years

Please dont say have you checked this and that as why my car isnt tracking straight!!! Coz i aint no noob!!!!!
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Old 03-25-2009, 10:16 PM   #6
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i could never figure out how to fix the rear toe issue, so i sold the car and got something else.
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Old 03-25-2009, 10:39 PM   #7
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So the rear hub is not the problem? IF it's the problem, I would
heat up the defective hub and twist it to the angle that is needed.

If it's the suspension mount, I would heat up the arm til Ill be
able to correct it.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:27 AM   #8
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anyone tried tamiya wishbones/uprights? if you put tamiya parts on and the problem is still there, then, there's an issue with the chassis itself. Always check for bent hingepins, dont just roll it across the table, look down the legnth of it to make sure its perfectly straight, along with this make sure none of the screw heads in the chassis are bent, this will cause the problem also.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:58 AM   #9
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brand new kits of Cyclone WCE & the NEW Cyclone TC all have this problem (Never been driven)
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:24 AM   #10
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i was really going to choose this car instead of the tc5r....

good thing i stick with the red/blue stars and AE.

hope someone finds out what the problem. spending $250+ on a touring car that wasn't designed correctly would hurt me..
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Old 03-26-2009, 04:36 AM   #11
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I just check both my TC's

the one with alloy rear uprights is perfect the other one with the stock uprights is out 2 deg on the right and 3.5 -4 on the left.

my tip is try alloy uprights.
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:26 AM   #12
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Maybe it has worked for some, but i brought alum rear uprights and put it on the setup station and it was still the same, 3.5degree on the left 2.5degree on the right
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:30 AM   #13
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Thats why I upgraded to a Shui mi3.5 dont have any issues with my new baby Get the cyclone s instead no tweek and u can run it without sway bars I kick losi's arse with it every week......not
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:34 AM   #14
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I personally agree with the first post in some peoples cases.

This would also explain why even when my cars chassis is flat, and balanced weight left to right / front to rear, that i have to add way more (like 2mm) spring colar tension to the left side rear shock to get it to be tweak free on a proper tweak adjustment station. As its clearly has more toe on the rear right so its sweeping the a-arm in more and hence also moving the lower shock mont out more and requiring more colar tension to compensate.
(Chassis holes or something making the a-arms different left to right toe)

Plus think about it , if i had a rear upright/hub issue then when i swapped the left and right hubs around it would have to make the toe problem swap sides , but it does not.
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:53 AM   #15
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I have now Confidently found the problem with my car, after finally deciding that i will become obsessed to find it.

The measurement from the edge of chassis to Front Rear pivot block (the one the belt runs under at the back) is 3mm on the right side and 3.5mm on the left side (which has shifted it to the right and thus made the left have more toe and the right have less toe). and it also effects the bottom of the shock position in relation to the top of it.

It must be the chassis holes, which are countersinked. I also had this problem with my old chassis so i highly doubt its just my chassis only.



I will hack it for now, but time for a new kit soon.


Anyone recomend a brand that is right up there with there precision & tolerances?????
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