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Old 03-26-2009, 11:23 AM   #16
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XRay...everyone complains because they cost so much, complain that parts cost too much, make fun of Jurai Hudy for "optimizing" and "innovating" everything, but there is no doubt in my mind that the fit and finish on an XRay kit is second to none. Every part, down to the spur gear, is more precise than any kit I have built. There is no sanding, grinding, trimming, polishing, or shimming needed to build the car...everything fits the way it is supposed to fit and stays that way. You get what you pay for...

-rocky b
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:09 PM   #17
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TC5R(rubber)
TC5F(foam)

every part on every AE car fits perfect. and the TC5 is better then that.
cheap parts. the car will never go away.
im a noob to the track and i trash this car on track trying to make laps consistent. and it hasn't tweaked out of shape, no broken arms. the hing pins are bullet proof. the only thing I broke on this car is a bunch of spools....but that's the first thing to break for everyone.

(now that I'm getting better at track my car is still in top notch shape)

HUGE bang for SMALL buck.
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATC3 View Post
every part on every AE car fits perfect
Never built a 12L4 then huh?

-rocky b
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Old 03-26-2009, 03:36 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
I have now Confidently found the problem with my car, after finally deciding that i will become obsessed to find it.

The measurement from the edge of chassis to Front Rear pivot block (the one the belt runs under at the back) is 3mm on the right side and 3.5mm on the left side (which has shifted it to the right and thus made the left have more toe and the right have less toe). and it also effects the bottom of the shock position in relation to the top of it.

It must be the chassis holes, which are countersinked. I also had this problem with my old chassis so i highly doubt its just my chassis only.



I will hack it for now, but time for a new kit soon.


Anyone recomend a brand that is right up there with there precision & tolerances?????
That's honestly the first I've heard of this, but I haven't been on the team for too long so it may have been a problem in the past. When I first received my Cyclone TC, it did have uneven rear toe. It was due to a bad run of rear hub carriers, not a defective chassis. I replaced the the rear hubs with some from a different batch and all the problems went away.

Your problem is something I hope the HPI/HB distributor or importer in Australia should take care of. I'm part of the US team, so I'm not 100% on how things work on your end. Have you tried contacting them and asking them if they would be willing to take a look at it?

-Korey
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Old 03-26-2009, 03:48 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by flatspunout View Post
Never built a 12L4 then huh?

-rocky b
Nope not into those cars. But I know AE is better.

The Xray looks better then the tc5 tho. and the Mi3 looks insane cool. but parts will cost so I can't go with them
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Old 03-26-2009, 03:49 PM   #21
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I work in a hobbie shop and have sold many cyclone TC's they all seemed to have this problem, when a couple of customers came back to me saying that thier rear toe was , out i said yeah mine is like that too & so are a lot of peoples and not to worry too much about it.

I highly doubt my car is the only one with the issue being not the hubs, just look at the first post in this thread even!

Anyway I Highly doubt Hobbies Australia is going to keep giving me new chassis until i find one that is accurate, also i am not sending my car too them , not after all the work put into it.

And its strange that mine is a WCE and others have a TC and still same Problem??????

There also is a slight posiblity that its the block it self, until i Pull it apart again and measure whether its chassis or Alum Block it self.
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Old 03-26-2009, 04:11 PM   #22
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I have now decided to band aid fix the toe by the grub screw method in the hub, then i tested the car and it tracked staright while coasting but it still went to the right under power, so then i stood the left shock up one position on wce tower which has finer adjustment, and it now tracks staright under power also.

So now it looks silly when looking at the rear shock tower as left and right position of shocks is different, but this is to counter act the whole a-arm being out of whack.

I may drill and tap thread for grub screw in the front rear alum block and actually fix the problem semi correctly by moving the inner hinge pins to be the same as other side.

So then at least i could have the shock in the same position on the tower to get exact same shock Angle/Length/Preload.

I hope this helps others and also HB Diagnose a Problem, so that it doesnt happen with future kits So me and many others Can stay Brand Loyal and still have a car that is spot on out of the box....
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Old 03-26-2009, 04:53 PM   #23
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Did this problem cuase tire wear on one side? I'm sure if it pulled on one side, then all the tires will be fighting, againts the problem rear right toe angle
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:48 AM   #24
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I to wanted to nail the rear toe thing down I have two chassis, BMI and an old 2.5mm stock. With both my rear toe was off until I put on 3racing aluminum hubs.
At that time I put on all new parts including pivot balls and everything was good and I was
I never brake rear arm's, I just add shims to keep things tight.
Now my toe is off again
Today I took all the shims off one H-arm so I could move the arm front to back.
I put it on my setup station and found the rear toe moves with the arm on both sides.
Simple solution ........Shime one rear arm until your toe is what you want.
It wont take much difference on one side because the other side moves the other way.
I think if I put on all new parts again it would be closer but I'm just going to shim it in for now.
Don't forget Lazer Guy said it first
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:31 AM   #25
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An update on my last post.....
I cleaned out the holes the pivot balls go in, re-lubed and put the spacers in front of the arm's back in but left the rear spacers off. This allowed the toe block to self center on the tapers of the two screws like it's supposed to.
I put my car back on my setup station and pushed the arm's against the front spacers and my toe is 2.75* on both sides again with a 3* toe block.

It appears now that in my haste to take the slop out of my worn out rear arm's with thin shims I had one H-arm tighter (to tight actually) then the other which didn't allow the toe block to set strait on the chassis.

In conclusion use 3racing aluminum rear hubs and don't shim the H-arm's to tight like I did and you should be good.

I sure hope my two posts helps somebody !!!!
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