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Old 11-26-2003, 10:54 AM   #31
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match packs are still worth getting because even when the
run time goes down on it it will all dump at the same time as
long as you take care of them. I agree that losing run time cannot
be avoided. you can slow down the process but the most important thing to me is for the voltage to stay consistent and
for the bateries to wear out at the same time. it's no fun running
a pack with one or two cells that has went bad.
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Old 11-26-2003, 12:00 PM   #32
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My question is what do you do to slow it down and extend the life of the batteries? I certainly do not want to have to replace these packs every six months especially when you are just club racing.
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Old 11-26-2003, 12:57 PM   #33
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i charge at 5 amps. run the car down the put the pack on a
conditioning/equalizing tray such as the rayspeed. the new
packs have so much run time that its not an issue making five
min. even if you lose as much at 30seconds in 6months.
The guys that change pack often usually run big events. So
just use what you have as long as your making run time.
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Old 11-26-2003, 01:20 PM   #34
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Fatdog.

Those radio shack 3000 are acctually pretty good cells. I bought one for a tmaxx starter pack. Charge and discharge looked pretty good on the quasar. I wouldn't use them for race packs...... just that they aren't bad cells. Maybe if they were matched.
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Old 11-26-2003, 08:25 PM   #35
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429racer: you have to accept that no matter what Nimh cells you get, they will deteriorate. that's the sad truth. we charge and discharge our cells way above the recommended guidelines to use on our rc cars; hence we are literally abusing them. just read the charging guidelines on a gp cell and you know we are actually 'killing' them each time we charge at 4/5/6 amps.
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Old 11-26-2003, 10:56 PM   #36
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Sook. Both matched packs and 'bulk' cells will deteriorate over time and usage. When I talk about matched packs, i really mean matched and zapped packs. The performance advantage is obvious needless to say.....but it hurts the wallet.

For the more economy racer, the 'bulk' cells may suffice. But you run the risk that the whole pack may be jeopardised by the one single bad cell that looks no different to the others. Ultimately a matched or an unmatched pack will lose runtime.

fatdoggy. I just didn't bother to elaborate too much. People buy new packs because the battery performance go down AND also because newer and higher spec packs emerge. This is well expected. The fact is this is a pretty dear hobby and to be competitive you need to spend. Batteries are just one of the many items that will need to be replaced. Lets talk about comm wear, tire wear, brush wear.... you know what I mean.

429racer. A pack that has worked less will be superior performance-wise and a pack that has worked like a horse....well you know the story. You judge how you want your cells to work.
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Old 11-27-2003, 10:33 AM   #37
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Out of racing everyother weekend or should I say being used twice amonth I wouldn't think they wouldn't have dropped so fast. I understand the concept that these go bad after time and need to be replaced but these just seemed to have dropped quicker than any cell I have used. So basically this thread is a question for other racers as to what's the best method they are using to keep these batteries going a little longer or if anyone has a method for getting some runtime back.
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Old 11-27-2003, 11:19 AM   #38
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PitCrew - Ahhh that explains alot, the last time I was at a race I raced a guy running the radio shack 3000's and he was exactely equal to me(I have matched 2400's) except he could run longer. Hence I went to radio shack to check them out but if you can buy a matched pack close to the same price then I'll go with matched 3300's.
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Old 11-27-2003, 11:46 AM   #39
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is it important to dicharge nimh packs
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Old 11-27-2003, 02:16 PM   #40
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Is there an equation to figure out exactly how much Mah translates to seconds of runtime? (Let's say for a stock motor)
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Old 11-27-2003, 03:12 PM   #41
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nutfluff - no, there is no equation for mah to runtime. Different motors, different tracks, different cars and different driving styles pull different currents from the cell. You should never dump a 3300 in a stock race though - I can normally just about run 2 races on a pack.

70mph pan car - a pack that is charged after a discharge will perform better in the car, and you can store the cells without a charge for a couple of weeks without problems. I'm also getting fonder of equalising these GP's, especially when the packs start to lose a bit of an edge. My personal routine is to store the packs discharged and equalised between meetings, but when I recharge them at the meeting, I don't bother to discharge first (no time). You also need to make sure these cells are cool before recharging them - charging a warm or hot pack kills them straight away (bad personal experience).
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Old 11-27-2003, 06:47 PM   #42
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mmmm

http://www.rczone.net/modules.php?na...rticle&sid=451
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Old 11-28-2003, 01:57 AM   #43
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Interesting cells those Panasonics - squared off around the edges to get more electrolyte in - but apparently this makes them illegal for racing use - plus they wouldn't fit in a lot of cars. Might make good basher packs though...
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Old 11-28-2003, 03:08 PM   #44
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hi

i just boght some Gp3300 off one of my friends they go great, but how do you test how much runtime they have.

thanks
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Old 11-28-2003, 03:22 PM   #45
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You must have a charger that will cycle batteries with a charge and discharge function. When you cycle batteries it should charge the batteries and then after the batteries peak the charger will then dicharge taking all the voltage out of the batteries to a desired level of charge left in the battery packs(which everybody mostly discharges to .9 volts per cell at a 20 to 30 amp rate). The charger then records the amount of time it takes the battery to get from the batteries peak charged voltage to the desired dicharge voltage level. Hope this helps.
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