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Old 03-07-2009, 06:40 PM   #1
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Default Screwdriver ?

Is there a correct size for screwdrivers to be used for Tamiya kits?
Or do you just take a screw from the kit and go to the hardware store and get the best fit?
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:52 PM   #2
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Vodka and orange juice?
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:24 PM   #3
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Is it 1:1?
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:59 PM   #4
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I assume this is a question about the M3 screws that go in tight plastic.

Use a good screwdriver (the tip needs to be in top condition) with a large silicone/rubber handle so you can apply a lot of pressure. Tungsten carbide tips are the best. I use a Kinchrome #2 with 100mm shaft. A bit of silicone grease on the screwtips helps.

Alternatively you can use an allen head screw to pre-thread the holes. That'll make it easier to screw in the kit screws. Still need a good screwdriver.

Last edited by niznai; 03-08-2009 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:41 PM   #5
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Tungsten tip!!!!! I had no idea..... Thanks.
I will have to try that and look for a #2.
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Old 03-08-2009, 01:19 AM   #6
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What you REALLY need for the Tamiya kits is a JIS screwdriver.

Japan has a different standard screwdriver which may look like a Phillips but is sufficiently different to mean that a Phillips screwdriver will just damage it. Phillips screwdrivers are designed to jump out if too much torque is applied, JIS screwdrivers stay in place.

So, seek out a JIS pattern screwdriver. I have screwdrivers by TOP Racing which work (get 5.8mm and 4.0mm), Tamiya's own brand should work too, beyond that I am not sure.

Trust me, a JIS screwdriver will REVOLUTIONISE the way you build Japanese kits. You will completely forget about buying hex screw kits.

Oh, and pre-tap holes for machine screws. Either use a hex screw with a little grease on the thread, or for really quick tapping get a proper M3 tap. TOP Racing do a nice hand-held one, or an engineering tools shop will do a set with a tap handle which is a bit more time consuming to use but will do an even better job because you can get a bottom tap for blind holes too.
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Old 03-08-2009, 07:07 AM   #7
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here;

http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=888101
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:27 AM   #8
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True, the angle of the tip is more acute on normal screwdrivers which is why they tend to jump out of the screw head and damage the screw in the process. Tungsten tips actually bite in the screw head and stay put, just as the JIS screwdrivers. JIS screwdrivers are angled at the tip like the pozidrive tools if you know those.

But I would strongly advise against using a proper tap to tap plastic.

Firstly they are going to cut a thread which is never meant to exist in the plastic (larger than needed for the screw size; metal doesn't recede behind the tap cut), and secondly plastic has an inherent friction coefficent lower than metal, so it compensates by a bit of constriction which is exactly what happens when you force the screws in. Remember plastic is exactly that, plastic! so it gets out of the way when you force something through and then grips on the sides when the screw is home. Metal threads grip only the thread itself, not the screw shaft as does plastic. In plastic a 0.5mm deep spiral is way to small to hold against huge shear forces, whereas the metal is strong enough (eventually you can shear it too, but it takes a lot more effort). I hope this makes sense, but if it doesn't, tap a hole in a plastic and then do the screw up until you shear it, then try to put a screw in the same plastic without tapping the hole first and go until you shear the threads again. You will feel the difference in the effort needed then.

Note, this discussion is about machine screws (i.e. bolts in australia).
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:38 AM   #9
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Agreed, I don't like tapping plastic holes. Since I like to use a lot of aluminum screws which can snap easily with too much torque I will just start a tight hole by threading in a steel hex head screw first.
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:57 AM   #10
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First thing I do for any Tamiya kit I buy is get the hex head screw kit
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