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Old 07-21-2004, 06:22 PM   #121
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Default Re: I think

Quote:
Originally posted by David Root
I saw on the orion website, for TC 7 over the wind and for truck 9 over the wind. I would start there.
Yes, but what spur and what internal ratio are you using to determine that?

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Old 07-21-2004, 08:46 PM   #122
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Default Re: Re: Quad-Mag Can

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Originally posted by glide 1
Yes i have tried putting a 10t dbl D5 armature in an EPIC quad mag can with V2 bell. very smooth spool up, not as fast as D5, but revs about the same ide say. Also, when you let off the gas, there is hardly any resistance so the car seems to freewheel a lot more off power..
What brushes and spring you've on this setup ?

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Old 07-22-2004, 01:41 AM   #123
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Quote:
What brushes and spring you've on this setup ?
Hi Bryan, i use sprint brushes with medium springs (i think) ..its the ones that come with the Hara ver. Also have good results using Reedy Ti armatures..
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Old 07-22-2004, 03:22 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally posted by glide 1
Hi Bryan, i use sprint brushes with medium springs (i think) ..its the ones that come with the Hara ver. Also have good results using Reedy Ti armatures..
Hi Glide !

oooh ok! thanks. I have one 10x1 hara i think. still in the box and will try it soon when i get the chance . Will that endbell fit other cans too....lets say yokomo can. I've noticed that orion has released v2 endbell kits for top can, yokomo and epic can. I was thinking of using the endbell from my motor (top can) on a yokomo based motor. Anyone tried this ?

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Old 07-23-2004, 01:20 PM   #125
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Default V12 XC and the Hara 12x1HS

Hello!

The schottky diode (GM1535) gets really hot just after a few seconds. When I try to run the motor with out the diode (50-60 seconds) the power capacitor, esc and the motor gets hot.

What can be the problem or is it a problem??

This is the first time I run lower then 14 turn motor.

/AN
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Old 07-23-2004, 05:25 PM   #126
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Does the diode only get hot when you run the motor? or just when you turn the speedy on?

It could be the diode is wired in reverse. Make sure that it's wired correctly, the diode is polarised so there is a +ve and -ve side. The +ve should go to the +ve terminal of the motor.

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Old 07-24-2004, 12:22 AM   #127
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Only when I run the motor and the diod is connect the same way as I always do...(first time the esc and diod got warm)
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Old 07-24-2004, 01:05 AM   #128
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Just out of interest, how are people fitting Schottky's to the V2?

Soldering across the brush tubes, or mounting on the motor wires?
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Old 07-24-2004, 02:22 AM   #129
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I mount mine on the wires it's the Novak shotcky on a GT7, much easier to deal with.
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Old 07-24-2004, 04:39 AM   #130
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Quote:
oooh ok! thanks. I have one 10x1 hara i think. still in the box and will try it soon when i get the chance . Will that endbell fit other cans too....lets say yokomo can. I've noticed that orion has released v2 endbell kits for top can, yokomo and epic can. I was thinking of using the endbell from my motor (top can) on a yokomo based motor. Anyone tried this ?
Hi Bryan, you should'nt have a problem using the V2 endbell on most cans, almost all motors are yokomo and top based so should be ok...

Quote:
Just out of interest, how are people fitting Schottky's to the V2?
i have a TC2 esc and use the GT7 diode, solder it across the pos. and neg. motor wires.

TIP- i dont have a pic but will try to explain: if you are familiar with the novak shotkey and have taken the shrink tubing apart, you will see that the actual diode is mounted on a small pc baord. Solder the +ve side if the diode to the +ve motor wire CLOSEST TO THE MOTOR and the -ve towrds the esc. Soldering it the other way around caused my car to glitch!!
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Old 07-25-2004, 08:21 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally posted by glide 1
Hi Bryan, you should'nt have a problem using the V2 endbell on most cans, almost all motors are yokomo and top based so should be ok...

Ok! Thanks....back to the lab...hope I don't blow myself up ..

Bryan
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Old 07-26-2004, 03:38 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally posted by sosidge
Just out of interest, how are people fitting Schottky's to the V2?

Soldering across the brush tubes, or mounting on the motor wires?
speedo wires here too...

Question about reduced brush surface: you get less drag and overlap, ok, more RPM, ok... but don't you get less torque too, since resistance is inversely proportionnal to contact surface?

trfracer: by how much do you reduce their size (percentage-wise), and what shape?

Thanks,

Paul
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Old 07-27-2004, 03:48 AM   #133
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Old 08-25-2004, 09:28 PM   #134
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this thread has dropped way down time to bring up to the top.
I have gotten 35 runs out of enduros with one cut on a 10x1 blue enbell motor! how is every body elses motors holding up.
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Old 08-25-2004, 09:48 PM   #135
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Hey! Do you need to cut very deep after 35 runs ? I've got 3 of them but not run them yet.


Bryan
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