Orion V2
07-21-2004, 06:22 PM
#121
Re: I think
Originally posted by David Root
I saw on the orion website, for TC 7 over the wind and for truck 9 over the wind. I would start there.
I saw on the orion website, for TC 7 over the wind and for truck 9 over the wind. I would start there.
Rob
07-21-2004, 08:46 PM
#122
Guest
Re: Re: Quad-Mag Can
Originally posted by glide 1
Yes i have tried putting a 10t dbl D5 armature in an EPIC quad mag can with V2 bell. very smooth spool up, not as fast as D5, but revs about the same ide say. Also, when you let off the gas, there is hardly any resistance so the car seems to freewheel a lot more off power..
Yes i have tried putting a 10t dbl D5 armature in an EPIC quad mag can with V2 bell. very smooth spool up, not as fast as D5, but revs about the same ide say. Also, when you let off the gas, there is hardly any resistance so the car seems to freewheel a lot more off power..
Bryan
07-22-2004, 01:41 AM
#123
What brushes and spring you've on this setup ?
07-22-2004, 03:22 AM
#124
Guest
Originally posted by glide 1
Hi Bryan, i use sprint brushes with medium springs (i think) ..its the ones that come with the Hara ver. Also have good results using Reedy Ti armatures..
Hi Bryan, i use sprint brushes with medium springs (i think) ..its the ones that come with the Hara ver. Also have good results using Reedy Ti armatures..
oooh ok! thanks. I have one 10x1 hara i think. still in the box and will try it soon when i get the chance .
Will that endbell fit other cans too....lets say yokomo can. I've noticed that orion has released v2 endbell kits for top can, yokomo and epic can. I was thinking of using the endbell from my motor (top can) on a yokomo based motor. Anyone tried this ?Bryan
07-23-2004, 01:20 PM
#125
Tech Apprentice
V12 XC and the Hara 12x1HS
Hello!
The schottky diode (GM1535) gets really hot just after a few seconds. When I try to run the motor with out the diode (50-60 seconds) the power capacitor, esc and the motor gets hot.
What can be the problem or is it a problem??
This is the first time I run lower then 14 turn motor.
/AN
The schottky diode (GM1535) gets really hot just after a few seconds. When I try to run the motor with out the diode (50-60 seconds) the power capacitor, esc and the motor gets hot.
What can be the problem or is it a problem??
This is the first time I run lower then 14 turn motor.
/AN
07-23-2004, 05:25 PM
#126
Does the diode only get hot when you run the motor? or just when you turn the speedy on?
It could be the diode is wired in reverse. Make sure that it's wired correctly, the diode is polarised so there is a +ve and -ve side. The +ve should go to the +ve terminal of the motor.
Tony
It could be the diode is wired in reverse. Make sure that it's wired correctly, the diode is polarised so there is a +ve and -ve side. The +ve should go to the +ve terminal of the motor.
Tony
07-24-2004, 12:22 AM
#127
Tech Apprentice
Only when I run the motor and the diod is connect the same way as I always do...(first time the esc and diod got warm)
07-24-2004, 01:05 AM
#128
Just out of interest, how are people fitting Schottky's to the V2?
Soldering across the brush tubes, or mounting on the motor wires?
Soldering across the brush tubes, or mounting on the motor wires?
07-24-2004, 02:22 AM
#129
I mount mine on the wires it's the Novak shotcky on a GT7, much easier to deal with.
07-24-2004, 04:39 AM
#130
oooh ok! thanks. I have one 10x1 hara i think. still in the box and will try it soon when i get the chance . Will that endbell fit other cans too....lets say yokomo can. I've noticed that orion has released v2 endbell kits for top can, yokomo and epic can. I was thinking of using the endbell from my motor (top can) on a yokomo based motor. Anyone tried this ?
Just out of interest, how are people fitting Schottky's to the V2?
TIP- i dont have a pic but will try to explain: if you are familiar with the novak shotkey and have taken the shrink tubing apart, you will see that the actual diode is mounted on a small pc baord. Solder the +ve side if the diode to the +ve motor wire CLOSEST TO THE MOTOR and the -ve towrds the esc. Soldering it the other way around caused my car to glitch!!
07-25-2004, 08:21 PM
#131
Guest
Originally posted by glide 1
Hi Bryan, you should'nt have a problem using the V2 endbell on most cans, almost all motors are yokomo and top based so should be ok...
Hi Bryan, you should'nt have a problem using the V2 endbell on most cans, almost all motors are yokomo and top based so should be ok...
Bryan
07-26-2004, 03:38 AM
#132
Originally posted by sosidge
Just out of interest, how are people fitting Schottky's to the V2?
Soldering across the brush tubes, or mounting on the motor wires?
Just out of interest, how are people fitting Schottky's to the V2?
Soldering across the brush tubes, or mounting on the motor wires?
Question about reduced brush surface: you get less drag and overlap, ok, more RPM, ok... but don't you get less torque too, since resistance is inversely proportionnal to contact surface?
trfracer: by how much do you reduce their size (percentage-wise), and what shape?
Thanks,
Paul
08-25-2004, 09:28 PM
#134
this thread has dropped way down time to bring up to the top.
I have gotten 35 runs out of enduros with one cut on a 10x1 blue enbell motor! how is every body elses motors holding up.
I have gotten 35 runs out of enduros with one cut on a 10x1 blue enbell motor! how is every body elses motors holding up.
08-25-2004, 09:48 PM
#135
Guest
Hey! Do you need to cut very deep after 35 runs ? I've got 3 of them but not run them yet.
Bryan 
Bryan
