Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

stuck: I doubt it'll run as good as specifically designed stockers, which manufacturers have spent dozens of hours on, to squeeze that extra hundredth of a watt out of them... unless you time the crap out of it, in which case not only it is illegal, but it's also unfair to your fellow stock racer friends. If you do your testing during a race, that is. In practice you can do whatever you want... experimenting is cool

don't feel cold: weird... on of the characteristics of the (non-twisted comm) V2 is that it runs way cooler than the other motors, which helps prevent magnetic field decrease at the i4-min moment... Maybe Surikarn was just performing some testing...

Later
Paul

BerNardLee

Good news.

I have a very good result after I trued the comm yesterday.
It hits 52800RPM now.

Smalls

OK, I got my new motor.... and have a question....



I am putting it in a TC3, I purchased at 9 double. Running with rubber tires.

Track has 40 foot sweeper entering a 90 foot stragiht exiting into a 40 foot sweeper, with a less then techincal infield other then a real real real slow "S" section.


Can someone help me out with a gear to start with?

glide 1

try 75t spur and 21t pinion or 72spur 20pin, should give you an fdr of around 8.8 - 9

John_S

hi guys im havin quite a lot of trouble with my hara spec 12x1 hs . One thing i noticed is that the green light on the endbell doesnt come on anymore whats this one do again? as i have lost my instructions iv tried skimming it and rebrushing it and no difference. The problems that i am having is that it is real slow and im getting radio glitches with it in

Jayboy

I believe that the if the led is on its telling you that your capicitors for reducing glitching are working...so if the light is off that's why you're experiencing some glitches. So i guess just check all the solders on those caps and see if they are all ok...pretty much just try to get that led back on...as far as it being slow you got me there...sorry

Smalls

Ran my V2 today for the first time geared 24/100 with cs27's, man this thing was a freakin rocket, we even turned the timeing down a tad. I can't beleve how effiecnt these motors are, I had 68 seconds left in my packs ( twice ) today... but I am not sure if the increased HP is heling cause this problem....


Please read if you think you can help...lol


http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44862

glide 1

Hi all, I see someone mention a "bigbrush" version of the V2, anyone hear or know anything about this?

trf racer

take the endbell of and you see a circuit board.
this has got a connection using a metal strip that goes to the brushe tube.
if this isnt touching the tube then the caps wonts be working and causing the glitching.
if they are touching but the LED isnt coming on then the board may have blown.

trf racer

i havent heard of a big brush but in europe were we have 12 turn limit some of us cut the brushes down to make the littler.this gives more power but less overlap and increases effeciancy.

defMondo

Do you have a picture of what they look like when you cut them down?

I guess t's more efficient due to less drag on the com because of the reduced surface area...

Tony

trf racer

i have no pics yet bt will try to get some taken.
theres less drag on the motor plus theres less overlap=more effciancy.

noline

I just purchased an Orion V2 Touring 8 Double Modified what how many Degree timing shoud I use also with a 98 pur what pinion should I use. I race on a Med/sized track. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

tornado

Try the final ratio of 9.1

azenis

Hi
Thinking about buying one of these motors for my Pro4, wondering which version to get.
Our tracks change every two meets but are mostly pretty tight, usually with one straight about 20-25 meters or so (sorry never measured it)
What would be the best version to get?
Is there a website that will give me the specs of each version?