Orion V2
#272
Tech Regular

Originally posted by tunerjetta29
Well after a day at the track im a little frustrated. I cant get the wires to solder to my V2 at all, sanding, roughing up the surface, flux ,nothing seems to help the solder stick?? I have even had a few of the local track guys try and no one seems to be able to figure out why the solder just wont stick? And this is without even running the motor. Anyone have any ideas or tips??
Well after a day at the track im a little frustrated. I cant get the wires to solder to my V2 at all, sanding, roughing up the surface, flux ,nothing seems to help the solder stick?? I have even had a few of the local track guys try and no one seems to be able to figure out why the solder just wont stick? And this is without even running the motor. Anyone have any ideas or tips??
#273
Tech Master

hi i have a question regarding the width of the armature shaft and witch v2's come with the 4mm shaft and witch come with the 5mm shaft thanks
#275
Tech Master

Javen, I assume you actually mean stack thickness. The Off rd (blue endbell) come with 5mm stack, the on rd (Black endbell) come with 4mm stack.
tunerjetta, If you have an electronics iron, does it have a small tip? If so it won't transfer enough of that heat. I use a 45wt iron with a large tip (about 8mm) anh have no problems soldering to the brush tubes.
tunerjetta, If you have an electronics iron, does it have a small tip? If so it won't transfer enough of that heat. I use a 45wt iron with a large tip (about 8mm) anh have no problems soldering to the brush tubes.
#276
Tech Adept

tunerjetta29
Make sure you have not got the end bell fitted to the can (The can will suck all the heat through the aluminium end bell) and I use a 4.5mm chissel tip with standard 60/40 solder and a 50w iron.
Make sure you have not got the end bell fitted to the can (The can will suck all the heat through the aluminium end bell) and I use a 4.5mm chissel tip with standard 60/40 solder and a 50w iron.
#278
Tech Master

I always solder with the motor fully built. Can't help thinking it would be a pain to re-build the motor with the the endbell already soldered to the ESC wires.
#279
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)

Well thats what i figured as well, and as i expected it made no difference. It is really confusing as to what would cause the solder not to stick. Even with a rough surface and flux.....? Does anyone have any clear pics of their wires so i can see exactly how they are attached?
#280

There's a pic of HARA's solder job on the this thread.
#281
Tech Adept

Here is apicture of mine.
O by the way u do not have to remove the endbell but the heat will not be drawn away from the solder points as easy. Why do you think a lot of people have problems soldering th V2 endbell and not standard ones.
O by the way u do not have to remove the endbell but the heat will not be drawn away from the solder points as easy. Why do you think a lot of people have problems soldering th V2 endbell and not standard ones.
#282
Tech Adept

Sorry heres the picture.
#284

You probably wouldn't notice a huge difference but it's always better to hard wire IMO. Plugs can come apart. I've seen people have a wire accadently get pulled by a turn marshall and suddenly no more power. When I had to run plugs when I first started racing years ago I used to zip tie them together so they couldn't come apart.
#285
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)

The actual plug wont add any resistance at all, what will add resistance is bad soldering to the plug, its four extra soldering points over hard wiring straight to the motor which if done badly will add a lot of resistance. Done well you wont notice any different between using plugs and hard wiring though.