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Old 11-03-2004, 01:03 AM   #256
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For motor break in on the Revlolutions, it depends on the brushes
Enduro:7-10 minutes, 3 volts
Sprint (serrated): same as enduro
Edge Sprint(non-serrated): 5-7 minutes 2.5 volts
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Old 11-03-2004, 03:10 AM   #257
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Default Re: Re: No LED

Ahh fixed it Thanks heaps!! Though the negative brush shunt had come off and was touching the tube to keep it going, and the positive fell off when i touched it too!! This is the solder from the factory!! What the??

Maybe it got too hot?

My ESC wires didnt come off and i dont consider myself remotely a good solderer...


Quote:
Originally posted by R1RCR
The copper springs that make the contact between the brush tubes and pcb are a little sensitive. Sometimes they move and they don't make proper contact anymore, I've had it happen to me. Just untighten the screw that holds the pcb board a little and check that the copper springs are making proper contact on the pcb and brush tubes.

Actually you can check the connection by powering the endbell even when it's not the on the can, if the red LED lits then contact is good and you can put the endbell back on the motor.
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:18 AM   #258
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I have found that if you run 2-3 schottky diodes or the novak super schottky, it greatly reduces or eliminates the wires coming unsoldered.
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:55 AM   #259
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Quote:
Originally posted by mo
I have found that if you run 2-3 schottky diodes or the novak super schottky, it greatly reduces or eliminates the wires coming unsoldered.
Try the new Tekin G-10Pro+. You don't need any add on's with it.

take care
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Old 11-03-2004, 09:10 AM   #260
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Yeah, instead of spending $10 on diodes, go spend over $100 on a speedo that still needs a diode for under 10 turn motors.

From Tekins website
" G10-Pro Servo glitches:

Today’s low turn motors are pushing the limits of the ESC's ability to deal with back emf from the motor. Below a 10 turn motor you may need a Schotky diode across the motor."
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Old 11-03-2004, 09:21 AM   #261
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Is that Novak thing worth it? I just run stock and already run 2 diods. so I don't know if its worth it. What do you think?
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Old 11-03-2004, 09:24 AM   #262
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Quote:
Originally posted by mafiaracers
Is that Novak thing worth it? I just run stock and already run 2 diods. so I don't know if its worth it. What do you think?
I run stock...and use the novak diode with no problems.. it's easier to solder 1 diode vs 2
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Old 11-03-2004, 10:01 AM   #263
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The Novak diode is supposed to be like running a bunch of standard diodes and you can solder it to the speedo instead of the motor and you'll never have to worry about it when changing motors.
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Old 11-03-2004, 10:07 AM   #264
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Quote:
Originally posted by mo
Yeah, instead of spending $10 on diodes, go spend over $100 on a speedo that still needs a diode for under 10 turn motors.

From Tekins website
" G10-Pro Servo glitches:

Today’s low turn motors are pushing the limits of the ESC's ability to deal with back emf from the motor. Below a 10 turn motor you may need a Schotky diode across the motor."
You need to keep reading. The tech page gives all the fixes from previous models (i.e., G-10 pro). It has been fixed internal in the Pro+ model. It could be fixed with the previous G-10 model just by bumping the drag setting up one notch. No a problem at all.

You miss my point though. Let me expand. You can put on two diodes, capacitors or whatever, and have 4 solder joints and ceramic pieces to brake or use a different speed control and not have to worry about it. Your choice.

Not an arguement on my part, just a statement that I've had no problems using the V2 or any motor with the G-10Pro+.
Of course, if you read the original problem, could just be overgearing also, if the leads are melting off .?.?.?

take care
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Old 11-03-2004, 01:14 PM   #265
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I've seen it, but Its hard to believe that motor can get soo hot that the leads unsolder themlesves. Thats like 500+ degrees! unbelieveable!
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Old 11-03-2004, 02:27 PM   #266
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Hey Mo
I have a novak gt7 which has the big schottky on it. I am running a 19t pinion and 75t spur in a pro4, i wouldnt have thought it would be overgeared? maybe it was just a poor solder job from the factory? The motor was a lot hotte to touch (and the batteries too) than the monster hp pro stock motor i use, but expected it to be...

Quote:
Originally posted by mo
I have found that if you run 2-3 schottky diodes or the novak super schottky, it greatly reduces or eliminates the wires coming unsoldered.
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Old 11-03-2004, 02:53 PM   #267
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How much timing are you running? I have found that the 8 turns run well with low timing, 6-7 degrees, hard springs, and geared a little more aggessivly. I think the touring motors come timed at about 12-15 degrees.
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Old 11-03-2004, 03:10 PM   #268
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timing is set where it was from the factory, may pull it back a bit then?
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Old 11-05-2004, 09:34 PM   #269
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Default brushes...

tell me guys,

what type brush is standard on a 8x1 V2???

I have been reading the last several posts wondering how many volts to use for the 1st break-in, but I see you all vary in minutes based on the type of brushes being used...

can anyone help me out

"gas guy trying electric out".....
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Old 11-05-2004, 09:46 PM   #270
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Well after a day at the track im a little frustrated. I cant get the wires to solder to my V2 at all, sanding, roughing up the surface, flux ,nothing seems to help the solder stick?? I have even had a few of the local track guys try and no one seems to be able to figure out why the solder just wont stick? And this is without even running the motor. Anyone have any ideas or tips??
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