R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-30-2004, 10:09 PM   #241
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,721
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by MattW
I think with tbe V2 you are "able" to go with lower turns, not necessarily have to. In the Uk and Europe we are limited to 12 turns, and the V2's seem to have gone well...........
The factory guys will always have go well. What do the none factory sponsered drivers that go well use?
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2004, 10:11 PM   #242
Tech Fanatic
 
Rob Mincey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 872
Default

Yes, you need to break in your motor. Ask 10 people how to break in a motor and you'll get 10 different answers.

With a mod motor, I adjust my motor to zero degrees of timing and run it without a load on it for 2 minutes at 2 volts.

This works for me.

Rob
Rob Mincey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2004, 10:19 PM   #243
Tech Champion
 
Jon Kerr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: San Diego
Posts: 9,658
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Yeah, what Rob said. Actually depending on what brushes you have. If you have the enduro's you may want to break it in a little longer. I've seen some guys that will break in the Orion motors for 7 minutes at low voltage. I usually will do that if I've put a fresh cut and set of brushes on for a main but if I have qualfiers and a main to run on the same brushes, 2 minutes will.
Jon Kerr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2004, 10:46 AM   #244
Tech Fanatic
 
Arun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: GA
Posts: 753
Default

I know that there are enduros, sprints, and edge enduros and edge sprints.
My question is about the serrations. There was some new brush that I know team drivers were running without serrations, but I know that it was not the edge brush. Was this just an updated sprint, and is there a different part number?

Also, does anyone have a good source for brushes?
__________________
http://nexusracing.com
Arun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2004, 11:26 AM   #245
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,126
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

As far as I know, they were just a running change for the original sprint brush. Same part number as well.

-Korey
__________________
Xray - RC America - Hudy - Apex RC - LRP - Protoform - AVID - 1Up Racing - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - RC Mission America - SpeedZombi - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2004, 12:16 PM   #246
Tech Fanatic
 
Michal101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 985
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by pink pac man
i have the adaption kit on my peak hellfire and i found is reduces rpm/torqe and improves greatly on comm wear and heat dissapation
This sounds as though it maybe good for running 4 cell stock 12th scale.

Has anybody run 12th scale with the conversion kit on a stock motor yet?

Mike
__________________
(Team Driver)
R/C America
Team Tekin
ProMatch
Parma
Michal101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2004, 03:14 PM   #247
Tech Master
 
azenis's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 1,478
Angry No LED

Just got my V2 8x1 touring from Tower
The LED doesnt work... is this a problem?
The car doesnt seem to get any glitches more than normal?

The motor is stupid-fast - love it
__________________
Nige
===========================================================
X-Ray T4 '14 | 3Racing Sakura D3 CS | Durango DEX410v4 | HPI Blitz | Tamiya WR-02 VW Bus
azenis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2004, 03:35 PM   #248
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,721
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
I know that there are enduros, sprints, and edge enduros and edge sprints.
My question is about the serrations. There was some new brush that I know team drivers were running without serrations, but I know that it was not the edge brush. Was this just an updated sprint, and is there a different part number?

Also, does anyone have a good source for brushes?
they are probably just brushes with the serrations worn off them
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2004, 03:44 PM   #249
Tech Regular
 
Mr. MR4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Malta, EU
Posts: 297
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Any suggestions for Gearing/Timing & Brushes for 8x1 Modified & 8 x 1 Touring Versions?

Mr. MR4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 02:01 PM   #250
Tech Elite
 
ChadCapece's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: CofC
Posts: 3,313
Default

Would it help braking and motor temp. if I soldiered on a 3amp Diode between the brush tubes? I didn't see anything big enough on the motor to help w/ braking.
ChadCapece is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 02:54 PM   #251
Tech Elite
 
Brian McGreevy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,081
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Brian McGreevy Send a message via Yahoo to Brian McGreevy
Default

Mr. MR4, how big is your track and are you running foam or rubber tires?

As for springs and brushes, I would try enduros w/ medium or medium hard springs, 10-15 degrees of timing.
__________________
USVTA Member #211

Support Formula SAE - get kids into engineering!
http://motorsports.illinois.edu/
Brian McGreevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 03:11 PM   #252
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 34
Default Re: No LED

Quote:
Originally posted by azenis
Just got my V2 8x1 touring from Tower
The LED doesnt work... is this a problem?
The car doesnt seem to get any glitches more than normal?

The motor is stupid-fast - love it
The copper springs that make the contact between the brush tubes and pcb are a little sensitive. Sometimes they move and they don't make proper contact anymore, I've had it happen to me. Just untighten the screw that holds the pcb board a little and check that the copper springs are making proper contact on the pcb and brush tubes.

Actually you can check the connection by powering the endbell even when it's not the on the can, if the red LED lits then contact is good and you can put the endbell back on the motor.
R1RCR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 03:14 PM   #253
Tech Master
 
azenis's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 1,478
Default

Thanks R1RCR will try that tonight
__________________
Nige
===========================================================
X-Ray T4 '14 | 3Racing Sakura D3 CS | Durango DEX410v4 | HPI Blitz | Tamiya WR-02 VW Bus
azenis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 03:22 PM   #254
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 34
Default

As for breakin in, the V2s just have so much less comm wear you don't need to nurse the break-in that much. If you do the run-in without having the motor on the car it will take forever. You want to put the motor on the car and do a few easy runs on it. Peak power comes after a few runs, don't put a new set of brushes for the mains hehehe...
Usually you want to check the comm every now and then, you probably will cut the comm a little one or two times before you actually need to change the brushes.

The new Edge brushes have the copper shunt wire for the enduro and the silver shunt wire for the sprint. They are narrower (flat sides and same height as before) and give a little more power, compounds are slightly different too.
R1RCR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2004, 12:38 AM   #255
Tech Regular
 
Mr. MR4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Malta, EU
Posts: 297
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Brian,

The track is around 160 feet long and 30 feet wide with rubber tires on 1/10 touring cars
Mr. MR4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Orion 3200 Lipos. Orion Charger, Orion balancer *new price* Mike Marshall R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 08-07-2008 09:26 AM
FS: Orion Advantage Charger w/2 Orion Carbon Edition 3200 Packs smarking1212 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 05-26-2008 02:44 AM
Orion Advantage Charger with 2 lipos orion/peak Rock Racing R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 04-21-2008 05:31 PM
Orion advantage carbon edition charger + Orion 3200 spec LiPo $150.00 vintagetamiya R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 04-09-2008 05:05 PM
New Orion 1100 micro battert and Orion Mod Elite for Sale Nightbreed R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 01-29-2003 02:11 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:36 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net