Which aluminum parts do you guys run?
#3
i would agree, if it's for you xxx-s, check out speedtech, pretty much all of there parts for the car are excellant for speed, and tuning, and alittle look. A battery brace would be the only unnessesary thing, unless your stock one doesn't do the job.
#4
Tech Elite
Which aluminum parts do you guys run?
Super Steve;
Aluminum is stronger than most plastic parts, but less forgiving and can bend in a crash. Aluminum also weighs considerably more than plastic parts. So it is always a trade off.
Aluminum is stronger than most plastic parts, but less forgiving and can bend in a crash. Aluminum also weighs considerably more than plastic parts. So it is always a trade off.
#5
I have a XXX-S
I've been looking at some of the dynamite stuff because they are cheaper then trinity for the most part and yet red.
I would get speedtech stuff hands down but they only make suspension mounts, steering bellcranks(which i plan to get later on) and shock towers. (Oh, ya, their stuff is yucky silver instead of plump red... )
Also, TC3 front C-hubs look very much alike as Teamlosi's are they interchangable and would you reccomend doing so?
Thanks!
-Steven
I've been looking at some of the dynamite stuff because they are cheaper then trinity for the most part and yet red.
I would get speedtech stuff hands down but they only make suspension mounts, steering bellcranks(which i plan to get later on) and shock towers. (Oh, ya, their stuff is yucky silver instead of plump red... )
Also, TC3 front C-hubs look very much alike as Teamlosi's are they interchangable and would you reccomend doing so?
Thanks!
-Steven
#6
I also hate these flimsy plastic body posts.
Only other option i see is using aluminum body posts from dynamite, but that will be useless considering the weight it's gonna add to already heavy XXX-S...
I've seen some pro touring cars with hollow alloy body posts? (looks like colored steel?)
Anyone know better body posts for the XXX-S?
Only other option i see is using aluminum body posts from dynamite, but that will be useless considering the weight it's gonna add to already heavy XXX-S...
I've seen some pro touring cars with hollow alloy body posts? (looks like colored steel?)
Anyone know better body posts for the XXX-S?
#8
For any car i have driven, XXX's, R2, TC3, in my opinion, alum steering knucles are a must...
#9
Re: Which aluminum parts do you guys run?
No more than was in my Pro2 kit - yet it's competitive. There's a lot of stuff, which is way more important than alu. And as Pops says, alu is heavier and might bend.
#10
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
seriously i dont see how aluminum stuff would do anything besides add weight to your car and look good. i used to have an aluminum car. A-arms C hubs steering nuckle...but eventually i dithced them all, chucked them all into the garbage and just stuck with the original stuff. once in a crash, they would just bend! all my arms are warped and bent! even the C hub is bent too. then you have to spend another 100 bucks just to replace them. i think the only thing you SHOULD buy are like the clamping style hex hubs, or the steering nuckle cuz those are the only things that DONT bend in your car when you crash! any other stuff is just eyecandy!
#11
what and why (imho)
not much.
wheel hexes - for alignment purposes, and precise shimming. the plastic warps and compresses depending on how tightly you have your tire fastened.
c hubs (carriers) - but....only if they are burly and cannot bend. i've seen alot that are just too tall or wimpy all together. aluminum c-hubs or carriers are nice when used correctly. that is because they can keep the cvd's from hyperextending and bending. it is important that the hub mechanically stops on the carrier before the cvd binds up. so many people use steel cvd's up front to minimize bending them, but they are heavy. if the hub can't move enough to bind up the cvd in the first place, uh, it won't bend. i really prefer composite or aluminum cvds's all around with a good hub and carrier setup up front. sometimes i've needed to shim either piece so as to minimize the travel on the hub. kind of like an old street weapon. i think todd hodge still does that on his losi.
outdrives - sometimes. they run true (like the hexes) and will allow your drivetrain to be smoother (less vibration). but they wear very easily. some type of pin cushion on the engaging pin is generally necessary.
well, that's about all i like to run. and i'd rather use too much plastic than the other way around.
wheel hexes - for alignment purposes, and precise shimming. the plastic warps and compresses depending on how tightly you have your tire fastened.
c hubs (carriers) - but....only if they are burly and cannot bend. i've seen alot that are just too tall or wimpy all together. aluminum c-hubs or carriers are nice when used correctly. that is because they can keep the cvd's from hyperextending and bending. it is important that the hub mechanically stops on the carrier before the cvd binds up. so many people use steel cvd's up front to minimize bending them, but they are heavy. if the hub can't move enough to bind up the cvd in the first place, uh, it won't bend. i really prefer composite or aluminum cvds's all around with a good hub and carrier setup up front. sometimes i've needed to shim either piece so as to minimize the travel on the hub. kind of like an old street weapon. i think todd hodge still does that on his losi.
outdrives - sometimes. they run true (like the hexes) and will allow your drivetrain to be smoother (less vibration). but they wear very easily. some type of pin cushion on the engaging pin is generally necessary.
well, that's about all i like to run. and i'd rather use too much plastic than the other way around.
#12
Alu CVD's came on my car, but I've ordered steel ones, because of running a one-way diff from time to time.
What about heatsink? I dont have heat problems for the moment, but in the summer season, it's different. Can a heatsink make any noticeably difference?
What about heatsink? I dont have heat problems for the moment, but in the summer season, it's different. Can a heatsink make any noticeably difference?
#14
Well, if the motor runs cooler, you should be able to gear a little higher. Or ???