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Old 09-10-2001, 10:52 AM   #76
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Just in from the Chicago Hobby show: Pro3 w/full option parts:
see: http://www.rccaraction.com/cgi-bin/u...&f=19&t=000069

HPI to come out with there graphite upper deck and shock towers. should be here by x-mas...
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Old 09-10-2001, 02:15 PM   #77
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I was the one that got the Penguin kit for 85. I got it at my LHS...

I like it, but it was the only option out when I bought it. I don't have any idea how it compares with the HB or any other kits.

It really stiffens the car up. I love it, but it is a bit pricey!!!!!
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Old 09-10-2001, 09:44 PM   #78
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Dear all pro3 racers: I always encounter the problem that my mid-oneway stuck during the mid-time of a race!!? I have put Serpent one-way bearing oil already but it doesn't help. Also, I put shims so that the mid-oneway can only move left and right a little bit. I just wonder does anyone also experience this problem!!?
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Old 09-11-2001, 04:49 AM   #79
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Fai..
i think u can change another ring (thinker) from the original centre one way set............ it will be all right!
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Old 09-11-2001, 07:32 AM   #80
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Yes.

I found that the pulley gets caught on the middle shaft mount, preventing rotation. I've had that happen to me.

Are you using the Aluminum Middle Shaft Mount?

To fix this, I added enough spacers so that it will not make contact, yet being loose enough to spin freely.

Quote:
Originally posted by TigeRyan
If you dont mind me asking where did you see the Penguin for 85$, best I have seen is 105$....

Also, thanks for the recommendation on the HB + HPI combo...Are you running this currently?

TigeRyan
I've seen it for about $85-86 at CastleHobbies, in San Jose, CA. http://www.castlehobbies.com , give 'em a call.

Oh BTW, check out my Pro 3.

Last edited by Aurra Sing; 09-11-2001 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 09-11-2001, 10:23 PM   #81
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It seems like HPI Japan is willing to try out more new things than the US HPI. Although the car was design in US, I don't think they see their car needs any Hop up.

On the other hand, Asian like to try and experiment different things for the car to try to get the best performance possible. That's why they come out more option parts for this car.
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Old 09-12-2001, 11:23 PM   #82
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Default Hop Ups

I'm itchin' to improve my car, even though I'm just learning to drive.

I bought an HPI carbon-graphite chassis since I've seen a lot of messages on HPI board and others about how cheap the stock parts are and how important it is to reduce flex unless you can dial in your car to deal with it (I'm so far from being able to do that....). But what's next? Swapping out chassis seems like the perfect time to consider other hop ups.

I've heard that one-way diffs for Pro3 cause the car to become loose, since front braking is disabled? Some guys have told me that they had to "relearn" how to drive... not sure that would matter to me since I've just started learning.

I've also heard that the motor mount heat sink is a good idea.

Any thoughts on which direction to go?

Thanks....
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Old 09-12-2001, 11:53 PM   #83
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When is HPI gonna release a true racing chassis?????

I have seen HPI selling on their website the Japanese edition Pro2 which is a true racing machine totally hop-up to every screw.

I have been a big fan of Tamiya cars cuz they are extremely strong and Tamiya offers racing chassis that are totally hop-uped.

HPI should do the same thing. Buying hop-ups pieces by pieces is really gettting very expensive over time.
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Old 09-13-2001, 07:29 AM   #84
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TRF-Powered, I hear that. If I'd known that I could get a hopped-up TC3 for $80 more than I spent on Pro3, I probably would own a TC3 right now.... maybe I should've done more homework, but I can certainly live with the choice I made. The way I see it now is, I've invested so much $$$ already that it only makes sense to build on what I've got. On top of that, even the best of these cars are somewhat fragile, parts are gonna break and when they do, I have to decide whether to replace with factory stock or some factory or after market improvement. In other words, the manufacturer's have got us by the short hairs!

So where do you start with hop ups for the Pro3? I'm leaning toward the motor mount heat sink... beyond that, I'm stumped.
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Old 09-13-2001, 07:47 AM   #85
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Rocket - Here's a list of hop ups you should get (in order of importance)

1. Upper Deck (Hot Bodies' is great, removes flex)
2. Heat Sink Motor Plate (cools down motor faster)
3. Sway Bars (reduces roll)
4. Aluminum CVD Bones (reduces drivetrain mass)
5. Graphite Chassis (you have already, reduces weight)
6. One Way Differential & Pulley (will give you more speed thorugh corners, but will require different driving style)

And of course all the springs and setup adjustments in case you need it.
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Old 09-13-2001, 09:51 AM   #86
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Well it depends on your budget first, if no problem on $$$ then get what you think it would help you on your home track, everybody driving style is different do not go out and buy everything you'll see, sometimes it could be a waste of $$$, but the motor heat sink should be first, then see how you really feel about getting all that stuff, you know some people would not care on spending for there car to look good, but looking good do not win races, just practice as much and consistance as much as you can that will put you in the winner circle, the car have the most hop ups don't mean you will win, it'll be nice to look but when you crash hard on those boards and break it'll cost you more $$$. I'm not saying that you should not buy just keep a cool head when buying stuff, just depends on what you going to be doing. Hope this help
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Old 09-13-2001, 10:33 AM   #87
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Thanks, milf & Aurra - I appreciate your input.
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Old 09-13-2001, 12:28 PM   #88
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I think the motor heat sink is a difinite must.
after that I would consider the one way. I love it to pieces.
then the upper-deck.

It's good to work with what you have. If I would have done my hw i probably would have gotten the X-Ray w/ HUDY setup.
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Old 09-13-2001, 02:54 PM   #89
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I haven't noticed the heatsink as being a must have hop up.

Is this because I run stock? I haven't noticed that much heat from my P2K.

Maybe I am not pushing it as much as I should...

I run 48 pitch (alot of gravel in our track). Gearing help?

Thanks
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Old 09-13-2001, 03:14 PM   #90
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The alloy motor mount and left side shaft carrier/belt tensioner add rigidity to the drive-train, which is always good; without making the chassis stiffer. That is the main reason why i got those two items. A solid drivet-train means better power transfer to the ground.
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