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Old 11-03-2001, 01:31 PM   #181
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Yokomo fan: LOL!

Seeing a car with that many mods on it reminds me of when the TA03pro was in its hay day and the T/E Maxx's of today. The original drive train is about the only thing left!
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Old 11-04-2001, 03:39 PM   #182
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LOL, yeah i remember having a tao3, infact i still got it!
I rememeber having the tao3-f standard to start with, then i got some hops ups like aluminium hubs etc, then i get the trf conversion to the tao3-f Pro, then i got the toa3-r trf conversion, oh endless!
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Old 11-05-2001, 11:10 AM   #183
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Yokomofan, are you driving a Yok. If so, enough said. Yokomo has enough cars and parts including the YM series that one can make a new invention, LOL!!! I agree the car that is shown looks alittle wild.

Last edited by HPI 1; 11-05-2001 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 11-05-2001, 11:26 AM   #184
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ACTUALLY its quite funny, i actually own a tc3

I only use this name here because i don't have to rememeber other names for other forums!
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Old 11-05-2001, 11:56 AM   #185
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Hi, I need help getting rid of some motor hesitation when at full throttle. The car gets up to speed , then slows, then speeds up, it repeats this every time I use full throttle on the straight.
I beleive it is a glitch, I have cut the com, replaced the brushes, install new caps, ( MVP) placed a foam spacer between the graphite chassis and the reciever. but this has not fixed it. I'm using a Cyclone (purple lable), Xxtra FM, 9303 servo,and 3PD radio. Any ideas
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Old 11-06-2001, 08:19 AM   #186
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TMHippo: I had this happen to me earlier this year after I cutt the comm on my MVP. The problem with mine was that after I cut the comm I forgot to clean out the slots between the comm segments. This leaves piles of copper in the gaps that can cause the brushes to short across two segments at once.(bad thing) Just take a hobby knife and get that extra copper out of the slots and that should clear up you problem.

If thats not it, then I'm not sure what it is other than a speedo problem.
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Old 11-06-2001, 11:41 AM   #187
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Thanks Darkside, I will give it a try and post an update
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Old 11-22-2001, 10:49 PM   #188
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Gday all

Getting into 1/10 elec tourer stock racing for the first time. HPI is the way im going to go but I'm not sure of which model/kit.

Choices and reasons are

Sport 2 - for the $$$

Pro 3 - cause its the "racers" version

Pro 3 HK edition - details of here http://controlcentre.rctech.net/home...%20hk%20le.htm
Pro 3 S with some cool HPI hop ups at a decent price but I don't know enough to be sure that S version plus hop ups = better that the normal Pro 3. From what I've read here the stiff chassis included is a good thing.

Any advice welcome.

Also anyone done an overseas order from control centre before? Want to get some comfort levels before I had over the CC number!!!!

Cheers

Andy
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Old 11-23-2001, 10:11 AM   #189
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hello,
i haven't been reading the hpi thread, but my friend runs the sport 2. it's a tank. i think all hpi's are. i don't like saddle pack configurations, though, so i'd at least spend the few extra $ for the pro 3. the battery down the center is logical. i just got a kxone that i have yet to run. i'm still looking at the hpi, though. i noticed that the spec s seems to be a sport version of the std. i don't think i'd do that. either the std or the hk version. as you pointed out, the std kit chassis has tons of flex. i'm told too much most of the time. so it may be a good idea to go with the top dog hk version, as the alum motor/layshaft mount is a required "option" with any competitive car. in the grand scheme of things the money spent or saved on a particular car is minimal when compared to all the expenses of batteries, tires, etc. i wouldn't want to have bought the chearper car and have to buy another. it's a shame to pay those prices for the hopups as individual pieces. $50 for motor mount, what...$75 for a graphite chassis. i understand that there is a ton of machining involved with the productions of those parts, but i just feel raped when i'm out that money for $2 of aluminum. well, there's my oppinion. hope you're still awake.
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Old 11-29-2001, 06:26 PM   #190
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GEEZZZZZZZZZ!

Have you guys seen the new HPI RS4 Pro 3 Spec V ("released only in asia"?)

It seems WAY better. Check out the new front hubs. The sway bars have been improved by having plastic pieces reduce slop. This was a huge problem if you didn't know how to fix it. Also, all (or most) of the plastic pieces are now carbon graphite. Much better! Look at the innovative spur gear hub, also.

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/...ecv/index.html

Last edited by Aurra Sing; 11-29-2001 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 11-29-2001, 11:19 PM   #191
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I want it!!!!! or at least the parts!!!! that spur gear adapter is awesome!!!!!
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Old 11-30-2001, 01:13 PM   #192
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i tought it was gonna be realesed with the cross chasis...no?
the motor mount brace looks cool!.... the front up-rights look better...with the ball joint mouned horizontily.....like the tc3 and others...otherwise looks like any other pro3.....when is hpi comin out with a woven carbonfibre chasis??,,,im sure they are developing one!
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sorry about the avator thing.....when i saw it in the your photo's site...i couldnt resist.....thanks again!
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Old 11-30-2001, 02:37 PM   #193
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mr4-malta.....a cf chassis would seem unnecessary since they already have the graphite molded chassis, which is included in the spec-v kit.(look close, you'll see it)

Interesting though. New rate springs, hmmm. Still no graphite molded arms. But they do include everything else. I wonder if this is all a little too late though.

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 11-30-2001 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 11-30-2001, 03:19 PM   #194
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gavin, i know what u mean, but i meant woven cf (like cross chasis)......we see hara and the crew all run woven chasis...what is the advantage...there must be one..!
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Old 11-30-2001, 04:32 PM   #195
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mr4-malta.....the advantage to a cf chassis is its flexabilty in terms of expirimental changes. Molded chassis are for the most part static and is difficult to change without encurring sizable costs for new molds. A cnc machine and a flat plate of graphite is an effective(and cost effective) way of offering that kind of flexability.

Say you are a team driver and you wanted to expiriment with battery positions(hmm, 2mm forward? 3mm back?, saddle packs? side saddle chassis?) or what about material stiffness? How soft can you go without comprimising chassis response, how stiff can you go without the car being too jittery? If you have a CNC and a piece of graphite you can find out in minuites. And you can do this all day if you wanted to.

Its cheap, and cheap to change. Thats the benefit.

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