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Old 11-05-2009, 07:23 AM   #1231
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You used a 0,05mm shim or a 0,5mm shim?

A 0,5 is absolutely wrong

and I don't get the "loose screws" point really

you can just tighten them

I don't even use loctite or anything
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:20 PM   #1232
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Thanks for the shipment Elwyn. I finally got it today. I dunno why customs held on to it?? Weird. First time that's happened in the several years that I have mail ordered form overseas. But it's bound to happen every now and then. Thanks for clearing it up. Great Service!!
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:22 PM   #1233
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Thanks for the shipment Elwyn. I finally got it today. I dunno why customs held on to it?? Weird. First time that's happened in the several years that I have mail ordered form overseas. But it's bound to happen every now and then. Thanks for clearing it up. Great Service!!
bought new options????
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:34 PM   #1234
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I just wanted to get the new bladed diff. But I forgot to order the aluminum chubs. I need those for indoor carpet because the tracks I race on have hard walls. Some walls have tape on them. If you get too close, the tape will grab the tire and crack the chub without you knowing it. The Yokomo graphite chubs are very hard, but crack easy. Much like the Tamiya 416 graphite chubs. Seems like even small taps from other cars will crack them. Of course, I'm sure others don't have this problem. Outdoors it's fine.

If you look close, you can see the crack. Though small, it causes slop/flex.

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Old 11-06-2009, 05:45 PM   #1235
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[QUOTE=JimmyMac;6573478]I just wanted to get the new bladed diff. But I forgot to order the aluminum chubs. I need those for indoor carpet because the tracks I race on have hard walls. Some walls have tape on them. If you get too close, the tape will grab the tire and crack the chub without you knowing it. The Yokomo graphite chubs are very hard, but crack easy. Much like the Tamiya 416 graphite chubs. Seems like even small taps from other cars will crack them. Of course, I'm sure others don't have this problem. Outdoors it's fine.

If you look close, you can see the crack. Though small, it causes slop/flex.

yeah, i notice it's quite easy to break the graphite c-hub...i broke mine after someone tap me from side...so now i oni will use graphite c-hub in big race...

you going to mod your old diff to fit in the blade? i just did mine few days ago but havent test yet...u need to file the outdrive 2mm deeper in order to fit it perfectly..
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:48 PM   #1236
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No, I'm going to continue to run the diff until it goes bad. Then I will toss it and run the new style diffs. But this weekend, since I'm running 4.0 mod and lipo, I will be using the MaxConcept harden steel diff!
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:17 PM   #1237
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Crap, I might not have the right size spur to run mod at 9ish final. Will a 108 spur fit in the BD5?
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:49 PM   #1238
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Good luck this weekend Jimmy. Try not to tear up the BD5 this weekend. Running a 4.0 and a lipo, it might not be an easy task.
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:53 PM   #1239
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Should be no problem, I actually have an esc that can handle it!
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:53 PM   #1240
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Should be no problem, I actually have an esc that can handle it!
vritra tc spec?

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Old 11-06-2009, 10:00 PM   #1241
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I can't wait to get mine.
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:27 PM   #1242
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vritra tc spec?

I have to wait until December to get my ORCA
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:32 PM   #1243
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Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
You used a 0,05mm shim or a 0,5mm shim?

A 0,5 is absolutely wrong

and I don't get the "loose screws" point really

you can just tighten them

I don't even use loctite or anything
Yeah I used the wrong shims. Need to go to HobbyShop to get the right one.

By the way can you recommend a good basic setup for this track? Thanks.

Last edited by -rv-; 11-09-2009 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:40 PM   #1244
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you actually brake a c-hub?

Me, steffen and Johann are testing on a track with similar outer walls as you describe your track markers and haven't broken a C-hub yet!
actually I have not yet broken any C-Hub on the Bd5 but if you find them to break you might want to go with the standard plastic c-hubs

Alloy is no solution as it will, unlike graphite, bend or even worse make the wishbone/steering knuckle break

btw to all: as I see that broken C-Hub

keep checking your inner and outer hingepins
they bend in some accidents and even the smallest of bent hingepin can have a horrible impact on car handling!
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:23 AM   #1245
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Hi all,

Anyone played with the lipo chassis?

My conections are quite wide, I just did some small alterations to make it work for the stock chassis.



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