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Old 10-14-2009, 11:52 PM   #1156
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Lexan is plastic. It's what your car bodies are made of.
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:54 PM   #1157
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Yup. FINALLY!! Bladed diffs!! I wonder if it was those pictures I sent to them of my diff awhile back with those notches... hehe

http://akira01.dtiblog.com/
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:38 AM   #1158
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I'm also waiting for the TC spec, will compare with Vortex as most driver in Jakarta are using Vortex including my self.



Oh, I thought so. Might change it back to servo horn then. Haven't finish my BD5 but so far the chassis is not flat on glass. There is a bit of movement left and right the chassis. Any idea what went wrong?



What is Lexan?
Have you install the belt? the belt tension before you put on upperdeck, sometimes might cause tweak.

Lexan is the plastic material to make bodyshell.
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:53 AM   #1159
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Have you install the belt? the belt tension before you put on upperdeck, sometimes might cause tweak.

Lexan is the plastic material to make bodyshell.
I have installed the belt.
Before it was tweak front and rear then I reduce the longer belt tension. I guess everything was perfect back then.
Last night I put on the upperdeck before went to bed however this morning I found out that the chassis is tweak left and right.
Hmm it's hard to explain it in English
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Old 10-15-2009, 01:06 AM   #1160
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I have installed the belt.
Before it was tweak front and rear then I reduce the longer belt tension. I guess everything was perfect back then.
Last night I put on the upperdeck before went to bed however this morning I found out that the chassis is tweak left and right.
Hmm it's hard to explain it in English
You need to loosen all your bulk head screws on top deck and on bottom chassis. And loosen your shock tower screws too. Do not loosen them all the way. Just a little. Push your chassis flat on setup board. Then slowly tighten down the top deck screws and chassis screws and shock tower screws. My chassis was flat. I could flip the car upside down, and the shock towers were flat too.
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Old 10-15-2009, 01:20 AM   #1161
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Yup. FINALLY!! Bladed diffs!! I wonder if it was those pictures I sent to them of my diff awhile back with those notches... hehe

http://akira01.dtiblog.com/
thsi is a great news!!

mebi v can file the current 1 and fit in the option blade from yokomo.....
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Old 10-15-2009, 01:35 AM   #1162
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You need to loosen all your bulk head screws on top deck and on bottom chassis. And loosen your shock tower screws too. Do not loosen them all the way. Just a little. Push your chassis flat on setup board. Then slowly tighten down the top deck screws and chassis screws and shock tower screws. May chassis was flat. I could flip the car upside down, and the shock towers were flat too.
Thanks, I will try tonight.
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:37 AM   #1163
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thsi is a great news!!

mebi v can file the current 1 and fit in the option blade from yokomo.....
With about 40 runs on them, they are starting to show signs of wear. This is with lube every round though. Big pain in the butt. Technical tracks are what's starting to wear mine in. But not to the point that I'd have to file them. They look pretty good still and I could probably go another 10 or 20 runs depending on the track. Hopefully by then, the new ones will be out.

Elwyn! Save me a set of new diff halves and blades when they come out. Thanks!
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:57 PM   #1164
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With about 40 runs on them, they are starting to show signs of wear. This is with lube every round though. Big pain in the butt. Technical tracks are what's starting to wear mine in. But not to the point that I'd have to file them. They look pretty good still and I could probably go another 10 or 20 runs depending on the track. Hopefully by then, the new ones will be out.

Elwyn! Save me a set of new diff halves and blades when they come out. Thanks!
jimmy, do u still running the aluminium UJ at rear?? do they wear faster than the steel UJ?

my steel UJ is about the time to change...so i still haven't decide whether want to change to Alum UJ or go back to steel....
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:43 PM   #1165
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JIMMY MAC FOR PRESIDENT!!!!!
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:51 PM   #1166
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Do you mean aluminum dogbones? http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/partsl...d_010440a.html

I have been using them for awhile now, and they have not shown any signs of wear. But, I do take them out every weekend and spray them down with motor spray. Then put two drops of MM Joint Lube on each one. This is a nice thick oil that sticks to the universals real good. Maintenance is key to low wear. If you maintain your stuff very good, then you should get them. If not, stick with steel ones. I think Yokomo did a good job selling them built in pairs (steel).

If you are wondering about weight savings, here is a pic....

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Old 10-15-2009, 07:05 PM   #1167
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Do you mean aluminum dogbones? http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/partsl...d_010440a.html

I have been using them for awhile now, and they have not shown any signs of wear. But, I do take them out every weekend and spray them down with motor spray. Then put two drops of MM Joint Lube on each one. This is a nice thick oil that sticks to the universals real good. Maintenance is key to low wear. If you maintain your stuff very good, then you should get them. If not, stick with steel ones. I think Yokomo did a good job selling them built in pairs (steel).

If you are wondering about weight savings, here is a pic....
i put a drop of teflon oil on the cross joint before each run. but it's still wear...maybe i brake too much....

The problem of my steel UJ is the "PIN" that lock the cross joint already wear badly.. I change wit a new cross joint set of yokomo, but the pin is shorter thus make the wear of axle hole become even worse..

anyone hv idea where i can find the pin ???
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:45 PM   #1168
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bd-010tp is what you should get ...

you cannot brake to much as I brake into each single corner ... sometimes only very minor but I do brake into every corner and my cvds don't wear too much either, still using my first ones and just change the alloy dogbones (which I use up front aswell btw)

as for alloy cvds up front:

don'T bother if they twist

around 30 are ok as they harden when twisting and thus will last once twisted

I just lubricate my CVDs (as well as bearings) with WD40

a drop each is enough...

I'm off to the track now... today is the first day of the ETS series opener here in Kastellaun ... will be fun ...
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:38 PM   #1169
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bd-010tp is what you should get ...

you cannot brake to much as I brake into each single corner ... sometimes only very minor but I do brake into every corner and my cvds don't wear too much either, still using my first ones and just change the alloy dogbones (which I use up front aswell btw)

as for alloy cvds up front:

don'T bother if they twist

around 30 are ok as they harden when twisting and thus will last once twisted

I just lubricate my CVDs (as well as bearings) with WD40

a drop each is enough...

I'm off to the track now... today is the first day of the ETS series opener here in Kastellaun ... will be fun ...
I bought the bd-010tp...but the pin that come with the cross joint is 2x10mm....so it's shorter than the pin that come with the kit.
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:44 PM   #1170
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Do you mean aluminum dogbones? http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/partsl...d_010440a.html

I have been using them for awhile now, and they have not shown any signs of wear. But, I do take them out every weekend and spray them down with motor spray. Then put two drops of MM Joint Lube on each one. This is a nice thick oil that sticks to the universals real good. Maintenance is key to low wear. If you maintain your stuff very good, then you should get them. If not, stick with steel ones. I think Yokomo did a good job selling them built in pairs (steel).

If you are wondering about weight savings, here is a pic....

lighter about 1.7gram....

do u think it's big different?
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