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Old 09-25-2009, 01:29 AM   #1051
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Almost same setup (sorta hehe) I run on a parking lot track that is tight and technical, but low traction. Only difference is;

1. I set all my diffs and spool to high position (spool belt tension set to loosest high position).
2. I run Pink springs all around.
3. I run R5.7 rear block.
4. I run 1mm under inner rear camber link.
5. I run 1mm under front rear block for antidive.
6. I run 2mm on center link.
7. Camber angles; -2 degree front and -1.5 rear.
8. 0.5mm bump steer shim.
9. 0.5mm wheel shim in the rear so 5mm hex plus 0.5mm shim = 5.5mm.
10. Front and rear shocks in position 3.
11. Rear arm spacing. 1.5mm front rear. 2.5mm rear rear.
12. Droop. I don't measure like you, but it would be close to 6.5mm front and 5.5mm rear. I do middle of outter hingepin height.

Everything else is the same except I don't run sway bars and I have 1.0mm pistons (kit). If you have 42mm front suspension mounts and 3.5mm upper bulkhead caps, I would switch to those. I just did, but haven't raced the car yet with the new stuff.
jimmy, after u set the diff to high, do u encounter the pin of the CVD hitting the upper bulkhead ?

i did try 2mm on the ankerman, but it's oni gv me better initial steering n will lose steering on mid n exit .....

after u use the 45.7 toe block, so your rear toe bcome 2.5 ?
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:02 AM   #1052
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jimmy, after u set the diff to high, do u encounter the pin of the CVD hitting the upper bulkhead ?

i did try 2mm on the ankerman, but it's oni gv me better initial steering n will lose steering on mid n exit .....

after u use the 45.7 toe block, so your rear toe bcome 2.5 ?
For diff in high position, you need to make sure your ball stud does not extend down below bulk head cap or else the axle pin will hit it.

Yes, 45.7 block will give you 2.5 rear toe.

I did find that the BD5 has some trouble with tight and technical tracks, but my last setup worked good for me. I think the new optional parts will make it even better.
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Old 09-26-2009, 01:26 AM   #1053
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For diff in high position, you need to make sure your ball stud does not extend down below bulk head cap or else the axle pin will hit it.

Yes, 45.7 block will give you 2.5 rear toe.

I did find that the BD5 has some trouble with tight and technical tracks, but my last setup worked good for me. I think the new optional parts will make it even better.
it's dont have enough steering angle in hair pin layout....
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Old 09-26-2009, 08:06 AM   #1054
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Elwyn: thanks for the shipment! car is running great!
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Old 09-26-2009, 02:52 PM   #1055
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it's dont have enough steering angle in hair pin layout....
Still huh? What setup changes did you end up on? Maybe less rear camber. I did try one setup before that had tons of steering. But I forgot which one it was. Do you have the 42mm front blocks? I didn't get to race today, rain....
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Old 09-26-2009, 08:49 PM   #1056
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it's dont have enough steering angle in hair pin layout....
You can also try going short on the wheel base. Mine is not all the way short, but you can move your rear arms all the way forward. I know I had to do this a long time ago when I ran a Yokomo SD. A lot of cars were killing me in the 180 turns. They just had more rotation and corner speed. My SD was fine everywhere else. But going as short as I could go helped out a lot. A lot of tracks here are small and technical. Not to the advantage of the BD5. But I have worked around it. I can't wait to try these new optional parts. They should help out a lot.

I'm about to post pics of the new lipo support. I'm uploading right now...
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Old 09-26-2009, 08:54 PM   #1057
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The first pic shows a 95 spur and 42 pinion (final 4.52). This is the max you can go with this setup. You need to go smaller on the spur if you want a lower final. This sucks for stock guys and large tracks. But look at the angle you have to tighten the motor screw! Sucks ass! You can grind down the top half of the lipo support. Or not run it at all. The other pics just show lipo position with supports on, and position of bullet plugs with new style top deck in place. Right now I'm rewiring my esc with bullet plugs instead of deans. So the wiring will be hidden under the topdeck. Enjoy....







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Old 09-27-2009, 12:40 AM   #1058
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Still huh? What setup changes did you end up on? Maybe less rear camber. I did try one setup before that had tons of steering. But I forgot which one it was. Do you have the 42mm front blocks? I didn't get to race today, rain....
i follow ur setup except the 42mm, 45.7mm toe block and 3.5mm bulkhead. but still not satisfied with it....

Last nite i change my setup to

Cyclone ankerman with 4mm shim
front 4 rear 3 droop ( car more roll, the car feel better on car park surface)
front Hpi gold, rear Hpi silver spring
front 1.3mm swaybar, rear 1.1mm sway bar

car work very good...can turn like a Cyclone in Hairpin layout...

i found out that cyclone Ankerman is 8mm . so i guess the new ankerman from yokomo 8mm is more or less same with the cyclone ankerman. But not sure if the Angle of the steering is same or not....

i will try to get the 42mm toe block for my bd5 soon...hopefully....

if i forward the rear arm, meaning the weight is consider sitting more to the rear right ? will this make d rear more grip thus understeer ?? or i wrong ?

another thing is i notice a loose car is much faster than a grip car in a techinical and tight track tat have a lot of 180turn.. question is, do it possible to make the rear alittle loose but controllable ?
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:24 AM   #1059
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Does anyone know where I can get the team bomber cvd blade cushions? I haven't been able to find them online anywhere!
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Old 09-28-2009, 02:42 PM   #1060
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Does anyone know where I can get the team bomber cvd blade cushions? I haven't been able to find them online anywhere!
If you are interested, I can check with Yokomo Japan for the price and stock availability and special order for you.

Please let me know ASAP, so I can add into the coming shipment from Yokomo Japan. Thanks
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Old 09-28-2009, 03:19 PM   #1061
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If you are interested, I can check with Yokomo Japan for the price and stock availability and special order for you.

Please let me know ASAP, so I can add into the coming shipment from Yokomo Japan. Thanks
Hi Elwyn. This is Tom Lane. I just got the order...Great service! The Yokomo bag is cool too! Thanks.

Yes, I would most definitely be interested in getting at least 2 packs of the Bomber cushions.! I use them when my outdrives get worn out. Just let me know!
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Old 09-28-2009, 05:21 PM   #1062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kschu View Post
i follow ur setup except the 42mm, 45.7mm toe block and 3.5mm bulkhead. but still not satisfied with it....

Last nite i change my setup to

Cyclone ankerman with 4mm shim
front 4 rear 3 droop ( car more roll, the car feel better on car park surface)
front Hpi gold, rear Hpi silver spring
front 1.3mm swaybar, rear 1.1mm sway bar

car work very good...can turn like a Cyclone in Hairpin layout...

i found out that cyclone Ankerman is 8mm . so i guess the new ankerman from yokomo 8mm is more or less same with the cyclone ankerman. But not sure if the Angle of the steering is same or not....

i will try to get the 42mm toe block for my bd5 soon...hopefully....

if i forward the rear arm, meaning the weight is consider sitting more to the rear right ? will this make d rear more grip thus understeer ?? or i wrong ?

another thing is i notice a loose car is much faster than a grip car in a techinical and tight track tat have a lot of 180turn.. question is, do it possible to make the rear alittle loose but controllable ?
Yes, in most cases, shortening the rear will put more traction to that end. But also, it will shorten the wheel base and let the car turn sharper. I think it's give or take, but in the end.... for me.... it works out for the better.

Also, I can't remember if I said this before (too lazy to read my last post haha), but you can try less camber. Like -0.5 rear camber and maybe -2.0 front camber. This will let the rear end fly around. Then adjust more neg camber to get it under control. I think a setup I tried before that had tons of steering was Yuki's setup from 090601 on the Yokomo Japan website. Down load it and try it out. I did.... too much steering for me!! haha. If you can't read Japanese, the front springs are Green and the rear you can use either Green or Blue.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:22 PM   #1063
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Yes, in most cases, shortening the rear will put more traction to that end. But also, it will shorten the wheel base and let the car turn sharper. I think it's give or take, but in the end.... for me.... it works out for the better.

Also, I can't remember if I said this before (too lazy to read my last post haha), but you can try less camber. Like -0.5 rear camber and maybe -2.0 front camber. This will let the rear end fly around. Then adjust more neg camber to get it under control. I think a setup I tried before that had tons of steering was Yuki's setup from 090601 on the Yokomo Japan website. Down load it and try it out. I did.... too much steering for me!! haha. If you can't read Japanese, the front springs are Green and the rear you can use either Green or Blue.
thanks...will try it out this weekend....
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:26 AM   #1064
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hey peops here's a carpet setup for whoever also started the indoor season

and my blog has been updated once again
Attached Thumbnails
New Yokomo TC, the BD-5-bd5_salzburg_spielemesse.jpg  
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:08 PM   #1065
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Thanks Martin, I'll use it as my starting setup next month. Would this be similar to the Vegas setup the Yokomo team used? I would like to try that one as well since most USA tracks are similar to that. Not big and flowing like Euro tracks (LRP, ETS, etc).
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