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Old 07-06-2009, 08:15 PM   #721
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hi everone,
i know its a little off topic, but i need some help with a spare part

I have an SDW, KIT which needs a new chassis.
this is the version i have:
http://www.yokomousa.com/kits/mr4tc_sd/sdw/mrtc-sdw.htm

I have tried to order the original part but cant find anyone with it.
original part :
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=419&id=4666
my question is simple,


what other yoki chassis parts will fit (if any?)
will the SD SSG chassis fit, or will the Tub Chassis from the SD drifter fit?
Or is there an after market chassis from Penguin RC or anyone else even?
any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:38 PM   #722
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How bad do you want it? How about here?

http://www.shopatron.com/product/par....32000.33167.0
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:26 PM   #723
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The SDW chassis is very unique, no other chassis will fit it, sorry.

Stormerhobbies.com has 1 SDW chassis plate left, its $65.
Whats wrong with the one you have?
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Old 07-07-2009, 12:54 AM   #724
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hi guys,
my bd5 is working great , but my old mr4 tc BD is in need of a few parts and spares.
any1 know what parts are interchangable from the bd5 and mr4-tc SD to the BD?
or any parts that are interchangable from other mnaufacturers?
there are a few SD's for sale in aus, and if the parts are compatible, i could use em to fix up my bd, and get it going again!
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Old 07-07-2009, 01:16 AM   #725
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Yokomo did 3 different holes as the shock position in the rear is majorly important!!!

for carpet 39.5 is the way to go

on tight aspahlt tracks you need 39.5 and 40.5

on flowing tracks I'd use 40.5 or 41.5

1mm does make a huge difference ...
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Old 07-07-2009, 05:54 AM   #726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
Yokomo did 3 different holes as the shock position in the rear is majorly important!!!

for carpet 39.5 is the way to go

on tight aspahlt tracks you need 39.5 and 40.5

on flowing tracks I'd use 40.5 or 41.5

1mm does make a huge difference ...
what does the number refering to..?
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Old 07-07-2009, 06:14 AM   #727
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shock position measured from the inner hingepin
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:31 AM   #728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
I think Toughbeard runs on large, high speed tracks. I cant speak for him but Im guessing thats why he wants to reduce his steering.
very large very fast track. its a 1/8 nitro onroad track (www.bumod.org) where the bumod GP was held.

So I do not use a lot of steering. Basically u have to use a precise and un refined use of power. instead of 200 dolar escs I should actually swap to an on-off switch which would be as effective. down the long straight we are doing warp 9.9

one problem I have is that the IP batteries I use have a rounded bottom which doesnt fit well in the BD5 batt slots. and these batts are not reversible like the LRPs so I cant use the bd5 lipo chassis. I think I a going to end up machining some lipo weight+restrictors from brass.

I really do not like the front spool aluminium ring which is a joke. it just not strong enought to hold the cup together like the tamiya ones. trying to find out if I can use a tamiya outdrive with yokomo solid. or a tamiya solid in yokomo

I had to shave the top chassis a little to have the battery plug fit.
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:35 AM   #729
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Hi Martin,

Could you please share your set-up of Apeldoorn, thanks !
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:29 AM   #730
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there you go
Attached Thumbnails
New Yokomo TC, the BD-5-bd5_apeldoorn.jpg  
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:17 PM   #731
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Looking at the attached pic:http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_GndgKavQtp...1062009038.jpg

It seems as if a Reedy 5A Lipo wont work UNLESS it is placed quite far off the chassis. Can anyone confirm this. I JUST changed to the Reedy packs and this will determine if I purchase the kit or not.. I hate having the batteries stick off the chassis...

(The Reedy bullet connectors are not placed at the extreme width of the pack like some of the other packs...
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Old 07-07-2009, 11:25 PM   #732
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With what you are asking and want, I would not recommend this car or a few other cars with similar design except maybe a TC5R. I think that is the only car with the topdeck clearance you are asking for without moving the battery out to clear the wires for a Reedy 5000 pack. But if you were using a ThunderPower or SMC pack, you would not have this issue. You could shim the top deck up like XRay does to clear lipos. A 416 might work for you, but you would have to move the battery to the edge of the chassis. Actually, looking at the Reedy 5000 pack, it might work if you place the pack on the very edge of the BD5 chassis. How thick is the Reedy pack? The topdeck clearance on the BD5 is 25mm.

edit, I see you already have a TC5...
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Old 07-08-2009, 12:21 AM   #733
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JimmyMac, thanks! The Reedy 5A pack comes to 24.5mm....However adding the PPD Lipo plate adds one more mm. Oh well. I don't need to switch from the TC5, and I don't expect the BD5 to be faster as its all dependent on my setup/driving skill. I just become bored with the same toys after a year.... At least the TC5 is relatively cheap to maintain. (It does seem from looking at RCMarket that TC5 and BD5 parts are very similar $$....)
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Last edited by rezenclowd3; 07-08-2009 at 03:11 AM.
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:54 AM   #734
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thanks Martin !
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:27 AM   #735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
JimmyMac, thanks! The Reedy 5A pack comes to 24.5mm....However adding the PPD Lipo plate adds one more mm. Oh well. I don't need to switch from the TC5, and I don't expect the BD5 to be faster as its all dependent on my setup/driving skill. I just become bored with the same toys after a year.... At least the TC5 is relatively cheap to maintain. (It does seem from looking at RCMarket that TC5 and BD5 parts are very similar $$....)
Have you seen that new aftermarket lipo chassis for the TC5? That might spark some enthusiasm back into your car. I like the new chassis because it shifts more weight forward. Look into it. I think it was posted on RedRc a few days back.

Hey Martin, is there a release date for the BD5 lipo chassis?
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