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Old 01-09-2012, 09:13 PM   #3361
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
i have but used if u dun mind..
Hpi Blue Spring.
thanks for the offer mate.
but i'm looking for the yokomo blues.

I'm having issues with traction rolls with this car on carpet.
The biggest class at MSI is 17.5 blinky.

I'm looking for a setup that will be suitable for med-high grip blinky low-turn.
The setups from the pro drivers work great when the traction is super low but slow the car down until it eventually flips. a temporary solution i've found was to extend the width of the front of the car. 4.2ff and 4.2fr with xray +.75 hexes. this makes the car boaty but it won't flip.
I'm at the end of my rope trying to find a high grip setup for the bd5wx.

for those of you who run 17.5 with the bd5, what sway bars, springs and roll center blocks do you use? any shims on the wheel hexes? shock oil rates?

Thanks for the help
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:18 AM   #3362
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Are the DCJs available separately yet? Anyone have a part number?
here Craig.

http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/news/o...1_bd_010fw.pdf
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:30 AM   #3363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny lee View Post
thanks for the offer mate.
but i'm looking for the yokomo blues.

I'm having issues with traction rolls with this car on carpet.
The biggest class at MSI is 17.5 blinky.

I'm looking for a setup that will be suitable for med-high grip blinky low-turn.
The setups from the pro drivers work great when the traction is super low but slow the car down until it eventually flips. a temporary solution i've found was to extend the width of the front of the car. 4.2ff and 4.2fr with xray +.75 hexes. this makes the car boaty but it won't flip.
I'm at the end of my rope trying to find a high grip setup for the bd5wx.

for those of you who run 17.5 with the bd5, what sway bars, springs and roll center blocks do you use? any shims on the wheel hexes? shock oil rates?

Thanks for the help
Quote:
If anyone is after a 17.5t boosted setup, what I've ran the whole year is pretty much Volker's Aniche EC setup. But with following changes:
rear shocks laid in one hole
5mm ride height all round
dot 1 rear gear diff oil (600cst equiv.)
Inner steering block hole, with 4mm worth of shims behind steering rack ballstuds
Short front wheelbase
DCJ's

What this does is gives more turn in which I found I liked a whole lot more in Stock racing.
That was what I posted a while back. I ran 450 oil with 1.1mm pistons and 2 o-rings. But this was on low-medium traction asphalt.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:58 AM   #3364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny lee View Post
thanks for the offer mate.
but i'm looking for the yokomo blues.

I'm having issues with traction rolls with this car on carpet.
The biggest class at MSI is 17.5 blinky.

I'm looking for a setup that will be suitable for med-high grip blinky low-turn.
The setups from the pro drivers work great when the traction is super low but slow the car down until it eventually flips. a temporary solution i've found was to extend the width of the front of the car. 4.2ff and 4.2fr with xray +.75 hexes. this makes the car boaty but it won't flip.
I'm at the end of my rope trying to find a high grip setup for the bd5wx.

for those of you who run 17.5 with the bd5, what sway bars, springs and roll center blocks do you use? any shims on the wheel hexes? shock oil rates?

Thanks for the help
i have them in stock too...Yokomo Blue spring...
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:59 AM   #3365
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rcmushroom has some bd5wx!!
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:06 PM   #3366
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just got hold of my BD5WXi thanks to Elwyn of Hobby Haven! Can't wait to run it and try out the DCJ's!!!

*Not much difference from the original BD5W except for the gear diff, DCJ's, white outdrive protectors and the FF4.2 suspension block (should it be FF and FR 4.2? Mine comes with a FF4.2 and FR3.5 and arms are swept). As posted by someone earlier seems to be running the same chassis as the BD5W.
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:16 PM   #3367
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Has anyone tried the Zeppin chassis?

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...or-bd5-p-23731
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:13 PM   #3368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL View Post
Has anyone tried the Zeppin chassis?

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...or-bd5-p-23731

i think it's should have same characteristic like WX chassis? both offering more flex.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:58 PM   #3369
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Originally Posted by RAL View Post
Has anyone tried the Zeppin chassis?

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...or-bd5-p-23731
i ordered it...ill let you guys know what i think of it compared to the OEM chassis
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:12 AM   #3370
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Default Manual, parts list

Can anyone supply me with a link for a manual or parts breakdown for the BD5WXi? I am ordering a kit and would like to order spares as well and find a manual helpful for part numbers etc.
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:01 PM   #3371
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Originally Posted by SammyZ View Post
i ordered it...ill let you guys know what i think of it compared to the OEM chassis
Please do give us feedback on this chassis.
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:00 AM   #3372
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Cool Sammy! Let us know. Who has the new DCJs (part#BD-010FW) in stock?
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:43 AM   #3373
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anybody running the DCJ's of the WXi have an issue with the fat end of the dog bone hitting the inside of the C hub? I can't seem to get full travel of the knuckle without the dog bone hitting the c hub first. It starts to hit at about 85% of the steering throw.

I'm using the thinner axle bearings on the inside btw...
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Old 01-18-2012, 01:41 PM   #3374
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Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
anybody running the DCJ's of the WXi have an issue with the fat end of the dog bone hitting the inside of the C hub? I can't seem to get full travel of the knuckle without the dog bone hitting the c hub first. It starts to hit at about 85% of the steering throw.

I'm using the thinner axle bearings on the inside btw...
Some o e mentioned that you have to file the back of c hub to get full travel
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:03 PM   #3375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
anybody running the DCJ's of the WXi have an issue with the fat end of the dog bone hitting the inside of the C hub? I can't seem to get full travel of the knuckle without the dog bone hitting the c hub first. It starts to hit at about 85% of the steering throw.

I'm using the thinner axle bearings on the inside btw...
In the amended instructions (incl. with the new DCJ cvds) it states you must chamfer the inside edges of the c-hub.

Once done, you should be able to get full lock and the DCJ wont touch the c-hub at full lock.

Also, make sure you take apart the DCJ (as they are assembled) and grease up using Yokomo High Protect Grease or similar and loctite the grub screws when reassembling.


HTH.

Leonard.
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