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Old 06-27-2011, 01:07 AM   #3106
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You'll be right, just put some ca to stop it from delaminating.
Fuhh...what a relieve..Good to hear that.I guessed it was my fault too for being too lazy to ca glue the inner chassis as it was too much of a work...

Thanks again defcone
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Old 06-27-2011, 01:31 AM   #3107
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The Spec-R Diff blades seem to be working well... Nice hard plastic.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:18 AM   #3108
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anybody got good stock "non-boosted" setups? 10.5 to 17.5T all will work. gettin really frustrated with the car as it would not generate nearly the same grip as the other cars in our competition. anything goes at this point ...just want to try different things.

thx
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Old 06-30-2011, 04:12 AM   #3109
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Now we carry full yokomo parts.....hehehe

we are still putting more items into the website and also updating the shipping cost.
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Old 06-30-2011, 06:45 AM   #3110
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Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
anybody got good stock "non-boosted" setups? 10.5 to 17.5T all will work. gettin really frustrated with the car as it would not generate nearly the same grip as the other cars in our competition. anything goes at this point ...just want to try different things.

thx
I just run the setups found on petitrc.com, the asphalt base setup ronald volker posted ages ago works well everywhere. Mind posting what you are running atm? What tires, treatment...etc?
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Old 06-30-2011, 07:52 AM   #3111
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From my setup experience with "no-boosted" class, you have to run with 4 equal spring (i use 4 HPI SILVER or 4 BLUE), 1.5° camber all around and a little longer wheelbase (1mm backward on rear suspension).

Use Mazda Speed body or LTC-R if you still miss corner speed.

Try and let me know.



Quote:
Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
anybody got good stock "non-boosted" setups? 10.5 to 17.5T all will work. gettin really frustrated with the car as it would not generate nearly the same grip as the other cars in our competition. anything goes at this point ...just want to try different things.

thx
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:19 PM   #3112
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This was my setup for 17.5 NT at this years ROAR Region 12 race on outdoor asphalt. It worked very well.
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:28 AM   #3113
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here is what i am running currently with the flex chassis plate. thx for the tips! keep em comin
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:51 AM   #3114
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here is what i am running currently with the flex chassis plate. thx for the tips! keep em comin
i was running similar setting like yours except, rear inner camber i run 0 shim and outer camber i run 0 shim too.

geardiff , i run 2000 oil now .
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:57 AM   #3115
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Default Adding shims

Ran through all posts but cant seem to find the answer so apologies for the repetition (if it was discussed before). I ran through the setups on petitrc and found setups on low-medium grip track. What are the purpose of adding shims on the rear bulkhead such as 2mm and 1mm shims on the rear hub? Does it improve handling? Havent tried it yet but no harm to ask first.
Does it implies on the WX chassis too?

Many thanks

Last edited by rai; 07-01-2011 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:59 AM   #3116
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bump up ~
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Old 07-21-2011, 04:04 AM   #3117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rai View Post
Ran through all posts but cant seem to find the answer so apologies for the repetition (if it was discussed before). I ran through the setups on petitrc and found setups on low-medium grip track. What are the purpose of adding shims on the rear bulkhead such as 2mm and 1mm shims on the rear hub? Does it improve handling? Havent tried it yet but no harm to ask first.
Does it implies on the WX chassis too?

Many thanks
from my humble point of view: shims on the rear bulkhead or on the rear outer hub, affect the camber change on the rear. the more the inner link is downward compared to the outer mount, the more camber change is made when forces are applied. also a shorter camber link gives more rapid camber change in general.

most of the guys run it like ronald nowadays with 2mm on the inside and 0.5mm on the outside with a short link.

in general my opionion is that the front camber links should be as closely as posible to being level. and the rear ones you want the inside mount to be roughly 0.5mm lower than the outside mounting position to give "perfect" camber change.

addition: if you increase both shims at both ends equally you will raise the "instant rollcenter" given you slightly more grip normally. (also depending on track conditions etc).
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:14 AM   #3118
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Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
from my humble point of view: shims on the rear bulkhead or on the rear outer hub, affect the camber change on the rear. the more the inner link is downward compared to the outer mount, the more camber change is made when forces are applied. also a shorter camber link gives more rapid camber change in general.

most of the guys run it like ronald nowadays with 2mm on the inside and 0.5mm on the outside with a short link.

in general my opionion is that the front camber links should be as closely as posible to being level. and the rear ones you want the inside mount to be roughly 0.5mm lower than the outside mounting position to give "perfect" camber change.

addition: if you increase both shims at both ends equally you will raise the "instant rollcenter" given you slightly more grip normally. (also depending on track conditions etc).
I see. So adding shims do improve the grip at the rear and again this all depends on the track conditions. I will have a look and try different shim sizes to suit the local track here. Many thanks.
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:35 PM   #3119
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Default BD5-WX

Hi, I just took delivery a BD5-WX (I believe this is the latest iteration of the car). Before I break the factory seal, can somebody who purchased the kit tell me if there's also a ball diff included (it says it comes with a gear diff and spool) or any other extras. Chassis weights, aluminum spring retainers, different spring sets etc? Thanks.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:55 PM   #3120
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who sells the BD 5 WX in the states?
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