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Old 04-26-2011, 08:59 PM   #3001
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Originally Posted by R.Völker View Post
My experience is only with 5t Motors,but it happended to me that new spec-r double joints out of the box wihout any preparation the inside and also the outside pin (not in the same run) broke during the first try without touching anything. in my case it was bad luck as it should not happen, but you never know..



I recommend the WX/R chassis on every outdoor track which has low,medium and medium-high grip (remember ETS Austria has high even higher grip-level with solaris tires). but its not like that the WS chassis would never work even on low and medium traction, it just could be slightly slower in my opinion depends on many facts like tires,asphalt,weather,layout...



like VITOMON said, the pins are too soft and would replace them by the xray ones. the pin on the outdrive side could be also stronger, I got TOP pins which work great. and about the housing, just use enough grease when you prepare them. they are not perfect but at least it works

Thanks Vitomon, Ronald...Unfortunately, there are no available pins at hobby shops here in Manila. Oh, well...might as well try it on the track and hope nothing breaks...
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:43 PM   #3002
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Originally Posted by R.Völker View Post
I recommend the WX/R chassis on every outdoor track which has low,medium and medium-high grip (remember ETS Austria has high even higher grip-level with solaris tires). but its not like that the WS chassis would never work even on low and medium traction, it just could be slightly slower in my opinion depends on many facts like tires,asphalt,weather,layout...
I went back to the W chassis (not the swiss cheese one, the solid one that comes with the WR Japanese edition kit). Im racing on the same track surface as Yokomo_Ant, in Mod, 4.5t orion motor.

I found that in hot conditions, going back to the solid chassis conserved my tires much better (sorex 36). There was much less tire wear over a "warm" race meeting (track surface 55 degrees C). Witht he WX/R chassis, my tire wear was crazy. I couldnt get much more than two 5 minute runs without killing my rears. With the solid chassis, the car is a weapon right down to the canvas.

Might go back to the WX/R chassis when it gets colder to see what happens...
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Old 04-26-2011, 10:14 PM   #3003
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Originally Posted by VintageFrog1 View Post
I went back to the W chassis (not the swiss cheese one, the solid one that comes with the WR Japanese edition kit). Im racing on the same track surface as Yokomo_Ant, in Mod, 4.5t orion motor.

I found that in hot conditions, going back to the solid chassis conserved my tires much better (sorex 36). There was much less tire wear over a "warm" race meeting (track surface 55 degrees C). Witht he WX/R chassis, my tire wear was crazy. I couldnt get much more than two 5 minute runs without killing my rears. With the solid chassis, the car is a weapon right down to the canvas.

Might go back to the WX/R chassis when it gets colder to see what happens...
Try it again Tom, your driving and set up has improved a lot since then, think you might be surprised with the results

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Old 04-27-2011, 01:04 AM   #3004
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thx to elwyn the flex chassis arrived yesterday an i started replacing the W chassis. we currently have spring time weather with no more than 23°C and something similar on the track. so conditions are not "hot". lets see how this thing flies as i am running the next meeting with a 13.5T no-boost class, i will leave the yok-gear diff in the car. for modified i also found the ball-diff more "forgiving" and easier to drive. but in my mind in the slower classes i need the "power" right away and that is certainly the case with the gear diff.

thx for the setup sheet. my current setup actually almost looks the same. i went for 2/0,5mm Rear RC and 0.5 under the rear suspension blocks together with the 5.7block to get more rotation and steering. rest is similar.

i am still not sure about ride height with the bd5w (wx). not sure if some extra height would do the car and the times any good.

btw: 2bad the optional flex chassis does not come with the extra servo mount
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:23 AM   #3005
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Today i recived the Flex chassis, now go to mount it, and test this weekend.
I think to test, with my normal setup with W chassis, or do you think i need to change any in setup, when change the chassis? ...

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 05-01-2011, 01:39 PM   #3006
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hi guys, had not much luck on the weekend. was partly raining during runs. i was wandering if it is possible to build 2° of toe on the rear. i normally have 2.5° but want to try 2°....any ideas??
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:22 AM   #3007
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hi guys, had not much luck on the weekend. was partly raining during runs. i was wandering if it is possible to build 2° of toe on the rear. i normally have 2.5° but want to try 2°....any ideas??
I never tried it by myself but it should be possible to use the 43.5 FF suspension mount together with the 46.4 mount to get a total of 2° rear toe-in. the rear belt would touch the 43.5 mount, but at least it would/should work
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:33 AM   #3008
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Hello and Hi,

I'm new to the brand and i have one WX now in hand and still not assemble. I had problems with the manual as it is written in Japanese language. Is there any manual written in english for the WX manual that i could download? I'm a bit skeptical about assembling it just by seeing the diagram. I just don't trust myself. Need more input from the manual but sadly as said above it's in Japanese...

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Old 05-10-2011, 04:50 AM   #3009
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Default litemodz for bd5

hi guys, any of you how to get hold of a pair of front cvs from litemodz?? with the original shafts the shattering in front wont stop which is like a auto break into the corners. the spec-r shafts are not bad, but cant get some replacement pins for the housing. any ideas?
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:13 AM   #3010
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chatter free is over rated in my opinion. This is coming from someone who has owned mulitiple lcd's, double cardon joint cvd's, or whatever you want to call them, on multiple cars.

Yes they can/may reduce cornering speed, however that is not such a bad thing. Sometimes I just want to roll slowly into a slow turn without using brakes, and this chattering provides the slow down I require.

Plus IF chatter free is of importance, don't you think the pro's who do this for a living would have them on their cars too?

just something to think about.....
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:39 AM   #3011
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chatter free is over rated in my opinion. This is coming from someone who has owned mulitiple lcd's, double cardon joint cvd's, or whatever you want to call them, on multiple cars.

Yes they can/may reduce cornering speed, however that is not such a bad thing. Sometimes I just want to roll slowly into a slow turn without using brakes, and this chattering provides the slow down I require.

Plus IF chatter free is of importance, don't you think the pro's who do this for a living would have them on their cars too?

just something to think about.....
hi there, for the most part i think you r right. i think for modified i would not mind a little "drag brake" due to the shattering. but as i am normally driving 13.5T with 0-boost, the cornering speed is of more vital importance i suppose to modified. not to mention that i think even ronald has the double joint things built in the car for modified. not sure about other top drivers though.

anyhow, they are out of stock everywhere or not even available. ((
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:24 AM   #3012
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what size are the spec r replacement pins?
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:32 PM   #3013
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Hello, i use a CVS litemodz in front with 0% of chatter with 100% of steering, in the track is strange not have vibration in corners, the sensation is of having to much steering, they need maintenance with a good grease.
Is very important to use the springs in the cups of spool, or best to use a litle length of silicone tube, they have good durability in mod.
I like the car with less vibration, the plastic cups help in this, too, but they need a reinforce with aluminiun, to make they more resistant.

Regards, Luis C.
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Old 05-10-2011, 03:02 PM   #3014
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Ronald,

i have question about BD5 shocks. What's the difference beetwen black and transparent bladders? And beetwen single/double o-ring sealing?
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:37 PM   #3015
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Ronald,

i have question about BD5 shocks. What's the difference beetwen black and transparent bladders? And beetwen single/double o-ring sealing?
i feel with the black bladder, the shock have better response while with transparent the shock feel little slow

just my opinion..
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