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Old 03-30-2011, 01:18 AM   #2866
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On that setup sheet it says 0.5 toe, is that toe in or toe out?
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Old 03-30-2011, 02:29 AM   #2867
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On that setup sheet it says 0.5 toe, is that toe in or toe out?
toe out...
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Old 03-30-2011, 04:22 AM   #2868
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thanks to everybody for the warm welcome words!

the setup I posted yesterday based on the WR/WX chassis.
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:15 AM   #2869
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Default Hi-traction or WR chassis

Hi, Ronald.
Which do you use hi-traction or BD5W(normal) chassis?
I think Indoor carpet tracks are almost high grip and hi-traction chassis is too much roles. How do you cope with that situation?
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:26 AM   #2870
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Black - 14.50
Blue - 14.80
Yellow - 15.70
Pink - 16.26
Green - 17.00
Orange - 18.50
Thanks for replay. It point me where Juho is with tc6

Regards!
m
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:57 AM   #2871
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Originally Posted by R.Völker View Post
hey guys,
signed up on rctech today. I would like to help as good as I can if needed.
But dont ecpect too much knowledge,lol

Ronald
hello Ronald, welcome!!! Thank you to be here to help us. For sure will be interesting read your experience or feeling about this or that question.

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Old 03-30-2011, 07:59 AM   #2872
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Originally Posted by Owen RaCing View Post
Ronald,

what procedures do you take to prepare your car for a run/ between runs? Also, what tools and techniques do you use for set-up (Set-up station, camber gauge, droop over ride..)
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nothing special, i'm using only a normal camber gauge and droop gauge by yokomo, ride height tool by xenon and no station at all
interesting, but I suppose if you don't crash, then the setup station is not required.

Can you tell me your procedure when building a new car?

eg. like.....do you use a tweak station, corner weights, left/right balancing....
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:56 AM   #2873
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Hi, Ronald.
Which do you use hi-traction or BD5W(normal) chassis?
I think Indoor carpet tracks are almost high grip and hi-traction chassis is too much roles. How do you cope with that situation?

I did 2 races this indoor season with the WR chassis and worked well too, but traction wasnt that high there.
I think if traction increase (races like ETS, LRP TCM etc. has always high grip due toa 3 days event with many entries), I would recommend WS chassis.
It feels easier to drive with a bit more understeering than WR, but its not that WR never works on carpet... opposite on asphalt, if WR chassis works well does not mean WS is half a second off...
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:02 AM   #2874
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
interesting, but I suppose if you don't crash, then the setup station is not required.

Can you tell me your procedure when building a new car?

eg. like.....do you use a tweak station, corner weights, left/right balancing....

I just make sure the car is straight after building checking this on a flat setup board,glass board or 2 flat blocks. After I finished I check left/right balance by lifting the car below the rear and front shock tower on the same time to see if it falls more into one side and then I put weights into the car were needed or move the electronics a bit. Normally I put also weight into the bumper (10-20g), car is feeling more smooth.
I think you discussed this here before with the HUDY tool? couple of pages before...


and in case I crash I also check if the car is still straight,sometimes nothing is bend but not straight because some aluminium parts just moved a bit without beeing bent...
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:58 AM   #2875
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Ronald, do you usually use the 8mm steering center link? Also I ask this on last page regarding zero rebound shock, do you drill a hole on the top shock shaft to get zero rebound. I always see your car is using the longer rear stabilizer, what difference does it make compare to the stock one?

Thanks.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:07 PM   #2876
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hi ronald what gear diff oil do you use?
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:11 PM   #2877
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hi ronald what gear diff oil do you use?
ronald use these geardiff oil


he recommend dot2-dot4...
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:13 PM   #2878
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Ronald, do you usually use the 8mm steering center link? Also I ask this on last page regarding zero rebound shock, do you drill a hole on the top shock shaft to get zero rebound. I always see your car is using the longer rear stabilizer, what difference does it make compare to the stock one?

Thanks.
According to Umino, the longer 'SD' style sway bar is a bit softer initially, and adjusts better to changes in surface condition, making it easier when setting up the car..

(from Team Yokomo)
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:42 PM   #2879
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Originally Posted by R.Völker View Post
I did 2 races this indoor season with the WR chassis and worked well too, but traction wasnt that high there.
I think if traction increase (races like ETS, LRP TCM etc. has always high grip due toa 3 days event with many entries), I would recommend WS chassis.
It feels easier to drive with a bit more understeering than WR, but its not that WR never works on carpet... opposite on asphalt, if WR chassis works well does not mean WS is half a second off...
THANK YOU, Ronald!!
I'll try WS chassis on high grip track.
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:56 AM   #2880
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Default Ronalds Setup

Hi Ronald,

Great to have you on board. Maybe I can you assist you a little.
Attached Thumbnails
New Yokomo TC, the BD-5-ets-hrotovice.jpg   New Yokomo TC, the BD-5-ets-st.-polten.jpg  
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