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Old 03-22-2011, 04:41 PM   #2821
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What can you say about the wearing of parts like spool exit, blade, ball diff exit etc...

i m bored of my tamiya 416 who need always maintenance, so i m lookin for new car like a bd 5 ( or maybe an xray... ).

Thanks
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:53 PM   #2822
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How do you guys balance your bd5 car? The car does not have holes on the chassis.
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:16 PM   #2823
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What can you say about the wearing of parts like spool exit, blade, ball diff exit etc...

i m bored of my tamiya 416 who need always maintenance, so i m lookin for new car like a bd 5 ( or maybe an xray... ).

Thanks
get the roche steel spool for front.
use spec-r / yokomo geardiff behind...

they can last u pretty long time before u need to replace them with new parts.
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:18 PM   #2824
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Originally Posted by dex410usa View Post
How do you guys balance your bd5 car? The car does not have holes on the chassis.
i file off a little bit the middle of shock tower front and rear...then use my tools (2.0mm, 3.0mm) to hold it up and see which side is heavier or lighter...just add or remove weight from there...
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:27 PM   #2825
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How do you guys balance your bd5 car? The car does not have holes on the chassis.
I drilled my own holes in the chassis so i could use the Hudy balance tools.
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Old 03-22-2011, 09:27 PM   #2826
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I drilled my own holes in the chassis so i could use the Hudy balance tools.
I just used the screw holes down the center if the chassis lol but lately I couldn't be bothered with balancing
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Old 03-23-2011, 04:45 AM   #2827
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I just used the screw holes down the center if the chassis lol but lately I couldn't be bothered with balancing
you so dodgy keefy
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:45 PM   #2828
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I drilled my own holes in the chassis so i could use the Hudy balance tools.
+1
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:34 AM   #2829
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The main chassis plate in our conversion kit has balancing holes

We tested the full conversion for the first time on Saturday back to back with a BD5W, unfortunately the timing at the track was intermittant all day so we were unable to collect any empirical data on lap times. The conversion did feel more responsive in quick direction changes and seemed to carry more corner speed, but these are only subjective impressions.

We have another test day with the conversion and a BD5W on Saturday at Moto Arena http://moto-arena.co.uk and will be running in the first round of a major UK series on the Sunday, so we should be able to gather some proper data.

We've taken some better photos, including some of the prototype motor mount and the chassis plate on its own, which are now up on our website at http://www.akularacing.co.uk/portfol...aracingar-01a/. We've also been working with our supply chain and can now include all the Photon parts to complete the conversion and have also managed to reduce the overall price slightly.

I'll let you know how we get on at the weekend, any comments or suggestions please let me know.
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:01 PM   #2830
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Anyone running the BD5 at the ROAR Carpet Nats?
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:01 AM   #2831
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Hi

Ive got the bd5 and am using the standard Yokomo gear diff in the rear, with the standard cvd's, blades, and outdrives.

The problem i am facing at the moment is with the blades. The blades are not lasting at all. They wear out with a couple of runs, explode outwards, and then consequently the outdrives get chewed out.

Ive been shaving down/ modifying the back of the blade as it tells you to do on the small pamphlet that comes with the gear diff due to clearance issues with the the gear diff outdrives.


What would be be a good susbstitute to get around this issue?

I have been told to use team bomber blades, but im not sure if these will fit in the gear diff outdrives. Ive also been told to use shorter Tamiya 416 cvd's with standard yokomo blades to give more clearance to avoid modifying and therefore weakening the blades.
Thanks guys
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Old 03-27-2011, 04:23 AM   #2832
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Originally Posted by VintageFrog1 View Post
Hi

Ive got the bd5 and am using the standard Yokomo gear diff in the rear, with the standard cvd's, blades, and outdrives.

The problem i am facing at the moment is with the blades. The blades are not lasting at all. They wear out with a couple of runs, explode outwards, and then consequently the outdrives get chewed out.

Ive been shaving down/ modifying the back of the blade as it tells you to do on the small pamphlet that comes with the gear diff due to clearance issues with the the gear diff outdrives.


What would be be a good susbstitute to get around this issue?

I have been told to use team bomber blades, but im not sure if these will fit in the gear diff outdrives. Ive also been told to use shorter Tamiya 416 cvd's with standard yokomo blades to give more clearance to avoid modifying and therefore weakening the blades.
Thanks guys
how many camber r u running at the rear? i did see running more than -1.5 camber will cause the blade to out quite fast....
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:31 PM   #2833
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Hello
I need some help.
I have two Geardiffs,1 Spec-R,1 Yokomo.
Both of them are extream leaking,what can i do?
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:34 PM   #2834
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try to grease the orings with some green slime.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Undertaker1 View Post
Hello
I need some help.
I have two Geardiffs,1 Spec-R,1 Yokomo.
Both of them are extream leaking,what can i do?
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:38 PM   #2835
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
how many camber r u running at the rear? i did see running more than -1.5 camber will cause the blade to out quite fast....
At the moment, im running -2.0 in the rear. Thats weird though, you'd think that you should be able to run -2.0 without issue without having to hop up the car

Ijm wondering if the combination of team bomber blades and a spec-r diff and outdrives would get around the issue.....

Cheers
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