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Old 12-19-2010, 01:33 PM   #2356
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Hi guys,
i am new about the BD5, and i noticed that (i have a world edition) it is suitable for the single link steering (like the old Cyclone TC, to be clear).

It is availlable from yokomo some kind of kit? Or it is for future implementation?
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:18 PM   #2357
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Originally Posted by ddd2k View Post
I broke the alu spool outdrives, what do you recommend for replacement? I'm gathering all the part# I need so I can order it overseas...it will be helpful if you have other recommendation as to which part I should stock base on your experience....both for tweaking and spares. what spur gear do you use, this one has 4 holes. also does Yok's sell the suspension holder in set?

thanks
u can use the Yokomo Front Spool cup which is steel.
u might considering upgrade to geardiff or new lower deck which is very good on asphalt.
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:08 AM   #2358
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Originally Posted by Teddy View Post
Hi guys,
i am new about the BD5, and i noticed that (i have a world edition) it is suitable for the single link steering (like the old Cyclone TC, to be clear).

It is availlable from yokomo some kind of kit? Or it is for future implementation?
There is no and there will be no such option. doublecrank steering only!
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:43 PM   #2359
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Martin, what droop do you set up your BD5? I tried all kind of droop and most of the time my car is 3 wheeling on turns...do you have your own setup sheet for carpet that I can reference as my starting point?

thanks
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:39 PM   #2360
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There is no and there will be no such option. doublecrank steering only!
martin... what is the best way to setup a car on setup tools and ride height, is it full of weight include lipo with balance right n left...? before, i do practice just have eletronics but no lipo...
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Old 12-20-2010, 09:38 PM   #2361
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@ zamrioo2, it's best to have everything in the car as if its ready to go....lipo battery, speedo, transponder, etc...
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:31 AM   #2362
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Originally Posted by ddd2k View Post
Martin, what droop do you set up your BD5? I tried all kind of droop and most of the time my car is 3 wheeling on turns...do you have your own setup sheet for carpet that I can reference as my starting point?

thanks
6 front 5 rear always

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Originally Posted by zamrioo2 View Post
martin... what is the best way to setup a car on setup tools and ride height, is it full of weight include lipo with balance right n left...? before, i do practice just have eletronics but no lipo...
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Originally Posted by ddd2k View Post
@ zamrioo2, it's best to have everything in the car as if its ready to go....lipo battery, speedo, transponder, etc...
What I do after EVERY Run is:

-Take off tires, clean them, put them aside

-Remove battery and batt-tape

-put the car on a Glassplate (I do have a glas setupboard which is abslutely necessary for proper car setup) untighten topdeck screws and make sure it's absolutely flat, if the rearend of the car is higher and won't go down onto the glassplate your chassi is broken and you do best to order a new one!

-tighten topdeckscrews and put the car on Droop blocks (Hudy in my case) and set the droop with shocks connected to 6 front, 5 rear. Sometimes I use 6.2/5 if traction is high

-After that I insert battery tape, put on the tires after I have reglued them, put a battery (just for setup) in the car and setup rideheight as following:

*set rideheight on one side of the car then take a calliper and make sure the spring tension is the same left and right ( on the bd5 it's usually something between 2.6mm and 3.0mmin front, depending on tires), do the same on the opposite side of the car.
NOTE: If the rideheight is not the same left and right after /during this process, don'T worry, that will be corrected in the next step

* now take a 2mm screwdriver, insert it into the middle screws that holds the bumper (front) or place it in the middle of the chassi (under the rib in the rear suspension block) and lift the car up so that the wheels just leave the ground.

As you have already made sure tweak, droop and spring tension are exavtly the same, the only part left is the shocktowers which tend to move on the upper bulkheads if you hit a curbing or anything hard (freshly built shocks required!).

So now if the tires won't lift off exactly the same the shocktower on the opposite side of the car is twisted. You will actually see the shocktower fall back into place as soon as you untighten the screws holding it. If you have straightened it, lift the car up again and you will find the tires to lift off equally.
Do the same on the opposite side of the car.

* With this process you get several advantages:
1, your car is always tweakfree and the wheelload is equal left and right
2, it is much more sensitive than a tweakboard ever could be
3, you actually see "where" your car is tweaked (part and wether it is the front or the rear!) which makes fixing the issue much easier

back to setup process:

- setting the camber. I use 1.5° front and 2° rear 99% of times as for me it just feels best. I set the Camber (just like pretty much any good driver) with a Camber Gauge (one like the RPM for example) as a Setup System like the Hudy is INCORRECT! The values you get from that do not match the actuall camber angle with tires on. This is absolutely important to know!! The only thing the hudy system is really usefull for is to check toe-out up front, but that I do with a calliper as it's the faster way

Having set the camber you can remove the "setup battery" and do your addative.
The whole process takes about 5-10 minutes, sometimes it goes even faster if you have not hit anything during your run.
But it's 5minutes a run absolutely worth it as you will always have a car driving properly.

Hope that helps a bit.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:03 PM   #2363
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Thank you very much, for tips, Martin, and other guys here, Ronald, in Teamyokomo, ...i learn a lot, i just finish my new car, BD5W of course, for next year competitions.

My car actually weight 1352g, with some titanium screws and ball studs, the rest are std, i donīt put the weights are in the kit, are really needed for balanced the car?.
I have some tricks with the steering link to the horn, touch in top deck, finally i put a original Sanwa horn, are litle low, is this normal?

Iīm waiting for test the car in the track, but this after christmass.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 12-21-2010, 05:16 PM   #2364
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Questions?? Just thought I would ask

Do any of you guys know a guy that has posted on rctech by the name of yokomo BD5? I bought a BD5 he had listed in the forsale thread on the 16th and he has not shipped yet. He has posted 75times on here but had no trader rating. I just thought I would ask if anyone new him before I get upset and mis-judge him. Thanks for any info.
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:46 AM   #2365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luic View Post
Thank you very much, for tips, Martin, and other guys here, Ronald, in Teamyokomo, ...i learn a lot, i just finish my new car, BD5W of course, for next year competitions.

My car actually weight 1352g, with some titanium screws and ball studs, the rest are std, i donīt put the weights are in the kit, are really needed for balanced the car?.
I have some tricks with the steering link to the horn, touch in top deck, finally i put a original Sanwa horn, are litle low, is this normal?

Iīm waiting for test the car in the track, but this after christmass.

Greetings, Luis C.
I usually move the Servo out a bit, so there'S only 1mm visible carbon fibre left on the outside
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:18 AM   #2366
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Hi, Luic you bought the yokomo BD5ws?
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Old 12-22-2010, 07:13 AM   #2367
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Hi, Martin

Do you know why use the glued oneway in ETS? Why not the lightweight spool?
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:08 PM   #2368
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Hi, Luic you bought the yokomo BD5ws?
Yes, i run National, regional, etc...and if possible 1-2 round of ETS, next year.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:43 PM   #2369
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hehe, ok luic. I see you in national and regional. Ets..... hehe I don't know.
Greetings Alex.
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:46 PM   #2370
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