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Old 07-20-2010, 10:07 PM   #1966
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
IT FITS!!!!!!

You'll need fatter boneblades though, I'm currently using the tc5 ones and still not fat enough. You need to use the spacer that comes with it on the non drive side.(Left side of the photo)
great....now my photon gdiff on the way....

i think must use the photn diff blade though.....
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Old 07-20-2010, 10:08 PM   #1967
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how hard is it to get Yokomo parts here in the west coast? Everything has to be done online?
i think so dude....

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Old 07-21-2010, 07:07 AM   #1968
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Hi, looking for a little clarification on the suspension blocks, sorry if it has been ocvered previously...

I used to own an SD/BD and the choosing of them was made easier in that you had a FF, RR, FR and the either a 1,2 or 3 degree rear toe block.

I am looking at a japanese version of the BD5 manual (i dont own the car) and am a little confused by the 41.1mm or 47mm figures, i understand that these numbers relate to the suspension pin spacing and trackwidth etc, but what additional blocks and combination of blocks would you need to buy to achieve 1, 2 or 3deg rear toe and 0deg front toe?

Out of interest what is the front/rear trackwidth and rear toe when using the kit blocks?

I hope that all makes sense!

Thanks in advance

Chris
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:06 AM   #1969
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Originally Posted by Chrissy C View Post
Hi, looking for a little clarification on the suspension blocks, sorry if it has been ocvered previously...

I used to own an SD/BD and the choosing of them was made easier in that you had a FF, RR, FR and the either a 1,2 or 3 degree rear toe block.

I am looking at a japanese version of the BD5 manual (i dont own the car) and am a little confused by the 41.1mm or 47mm figures, i understand that these numbers relate to the suspension pin spacing and trackwidth etc, but what additional blocks and combination of blocks would you need to buy to achieve 1, 2 or 3deg rear toe and 0deg front toe?

Out of interest what is the front/rear trackwidth and rear toe when using the kit blocks?

I hope that all makes sense!

Thanks in advance

Chris
47.1 + 42 = 3.5d rear toe
46.4 + 42 = 3d rear toe
45.7 + 42 = 2.5 Rear toe

If you use teh 41.3 RF block, then you would need to use a smaller block to acheive the same toe as with the 42 block. Eg. 46.4 + 41.3 = 3.5d rear toe, but the track width is slightly narrower.

Same applies to the front 42 + 42 is just narrower, and 42 FR and 43.5 FF will give the car -1.5d onboard toe out.

Track width is approx
Front: 184
Rear: depending on were u measure, 182ish
On my car anyway

Hope that Helps,

Antoni
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:14 AM   #1970
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Antoni,

Thanks for the answer, its just what i was looking for!

It seems a lot more complicated than it used to be, but i suppose modern TC is all about adjustment!!

Out of interest why are Yokomo offering combination of susp. blocks to alter the trackwidth and not just offer thicker or thinner hexes which, to me, seems simpler - is there a difference in altering trackwidth inboard as opposed to outboard?
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:21 AM   #1971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrissy C View Post
Hi, looking for a little clarification on the suspension blocks, sorry if it has been ocvered previously...

I used to own an SD/BD and the choosing of them was made easier in that you had a FF, RR, FR and the either a 1,2 or 3 degree rear toe block.

I am looking at a japanese version of the BD5 manual (i dont own the car) and am a little confused by the 41.1mm or 47mm figures, i understand that these numbers relate to the suspension pin spacing and trackwidth etc, but what additional blocks and combination of blocks would you need to buy to achieve 1, 2 or 3deg rear toe and 0deg front toe?

Out of interest what is the front/rear trackwidth and rear toe when using the kit blocks?

I hope that all makes sense!

Thanks in advance

Chris
I think this picture can help you, for every number you can read just add a 4 in front. So where is write 7,1 means 47,1mm for 2.0 is 42mm and so on
With the standard blocks the rear toe is 3,5 (42mm RF and 47,1 RR)
Hoping this help you.

EDIT: oooppss i'm arrived in late
Attached Thumbnails
New Yokomo TC, the BD-5-angoli.jpg  
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:23 AM   #1972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrissy C View Post
Antoni,

Thanks for the answer, its just what i was looking for!

It seems a lot more complicated than it used to be, but i suppose modern TC is all about adjustment!!

Out of interest why are Yokomo offering combination of susp. blocks to alter the trackwidth and not just offer thicker or thinner hexes which, to me, seems simpler - is there a difference in altering trackwidth inboard as opposed to outboard?
yea there is, but i cant really tell the differance as i have done barely any testing with this Not to worry, everyone leaves the 43.5 front blocks on and the 42 RF block on so its all good 42 FF and FR up front is a good option, it gave my car more initial steering, but the car had lots of exit push, it works on some tracks. I wouldnt even bother with getting the 41.3 RF block Kit blocks are great, and just adjust your rear toe to suit the class you run
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:37 AM   #1973
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After some race and test with the BD5W i had this feeling, may be i'm wrong.
With a pretty good setup on a track with low/medium grip conditions the car is fantastic.
Going up with the grip my feeling is to have a car really easy to drive but too much understeering, seems like the rear is "planted" on the track and doesn't follow the corners.
At the moment i'm trying to do some test for to find a solution on what may be is a wrong/not perfect setup but my feeling is with this new chassis (lipo chassis+new upperdeck) the car has sometimes too much rear grip.

What do you think about this and if is never happened to you this feeling?
Thank you
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:39 AM   #1974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by altreyx View Post
After some race and test with the BD5W i had this feeling, may be i'm wrong.
With a pretty good setup on a track with low/medium grip conditions the car is fantastic.
Going up with the grip my feeling is to have a car really easy to drive but too much understeering, seems like the rear is "planted" on the track and doesn't follow the corners.
At the moment i'm trying to do some test for to find a solution on what may be is a wrong/not perfect setup but my feeling is with this new chassis (lipo chassis+new upperdeck) the car has sometimes too much rear grip.

What do you think about this and if is never happened to you this feeling?
Thank you
I had that happen to me and just put 2.5 rear toe and it solved all problems.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:39 AM   #1975
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Cheers lads,

Altreyx - thanks for the diagram, i get it now
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:56 AM   #1976
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
I had that happen to me and just put 2.5 rear toe and it solved all problems.
Thank you, i'll try it. At the moment i'm using 3.0 , i was thinking to try some spring more hard behind (i usually use Yokomo Pink in front and Blue rear...may be a Pink/Pink combo)
While behind i was thinking to go up with 0,1mm of bars (from 1,2 to 1,3mm)
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:18 AM   #1977
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Originally Posted by altreyx View Post
Thank you, i'll try it. At the moment i'm using 3.0 , i was thinking to try some spring more hard behind (i usually use Yokomo Pink in front and Blue rear...may be a Pink/Pink combo)
While behind i was thinking to go up with 0,1mm of bars (from 1,2 to 1,3mm)
u might can try switching to other shell...

LTC-R or R9...ton of steering...
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Old 07-21-2010, 01:18 PM   #1978
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hi, i had same similar problem. was running today on a high traction tarmac track with high temperature. i startet with HPI blue/blue and ended up with HPI pink/silver and a droop of 6/5. the car was very good. i suppose i will find 0,1 or 0,2s but anything more i dont think is possible on the track. i raced against the local guys who are all very fast on their home turf and have like 30000 laps already.
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:12 PM   #1979
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
u might can try switching to other shell...

LTC-R or R9...ton of steering...
i have both, R9R i tryed t once just for a test, LTCR is very nice but i found is giving more rear grip, and a better steering response than a Mazda6Speed
My/our problem with the BD5W has been (and i think setup was far to be perfect) on fast corners especially on a corner pretty long and fast was impossible give gas in the middle, just with a small amount of gas our cars was going out with a terrible understeer. But in the morning with less grip and low temperatures was pretty ok.
Anyway i'll try to work on the setup, feeling is to have a car really stable with a lot of rear grip so trying to have a rear a little bit more "slippery" can help.

Thank you all for your suggestions
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:17 PM   #1980
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Wrong thread...
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