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Old 06-06-2010, 03:49 AM   #1831
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
im not sure mate, even my self cant adapt to the yokomo spring...i feel my car stiff if i use them even i use softer yokomo spring like pink and blue....

my laptime bcome slower if i use them....

maybe different preference from each driver..
You could be right KS. Both Ryan and I have had a bit of a "rule of thumb" when it comes to the Yoke springs. Whenever the temperature is low, they seem to work, when it becomes warmer than 20-25 deg C then they seem to go off a little bit. Given you are in Malaysia, you may find exactly the same thing. Can't explain why they are like that, just what we have noticed.
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Old 06-06-2010, 05:10 AM   #1832
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Great discussion going on here! I'll try the HPI Pinks and Silvers and see if they will suit my driving style. The PInks in front and Blue ones in the back seem to work for me already, but I'm assuming that since the silver ones are closer in rate, they should give an even more consistent feel. Will try it out on Tuesday and report back here my findings

Thanks guys!!!
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:24 PM   #1833
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Originally Posted by Dual Fuel View Post
Yeah,have to wonder if he even owns any other springs at all!

Just as a bit of info here are the rates:

HPI:
Silver: 16.9 lb Linear
Pink: 18.0 lb Linear

Yoke:
Green: 17.0 lb Prog
Orange: 18.5 lb Prog

As you can see the advertised rates are very similiar, but as Jordo says the Yoke springs we have at least, tested a bit softer across the board.

Also the yoke springs are progressive, not linear like the HPI springs. This seems to make the car a little easier to drive for us mere mortals. So for those guys who dont own the above HPI springs or even if you do; give the yokes a go as well, they are a great alternative at times. Especially on med/high traction. If the traction drops just go down a spring rate all around. Either Pink/Green or even Yellow/green.
i was reading something about the springs: linear or progressive.
HPI are linear because the progressive ones are build with differents coils, cecking on the HPI website is possible find what is progressive or not.
But having both sets (HPI and Yokomo) for me Yokomo aren't progressive because are similar to the HPI while the progressive springs should have a difference space between their coils.
For me they are simple called Yokomo Pro Springs but PRO doesn't mean progressive.
May be i'm wrong but how can you define a progressive spring, for what i saw all the progressive springs have like a top and a bottom side.

Many thanks for who can explain me if i'm right or not
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Old 06-06-2010, 01:40 PM   #1834
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Hi I have a problem with the wear of the front and rear wheels, I was more worn on the outside and inside a slot is marked by the center as new, I'm using 1.5 camber angle
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Old 06-06-2010, 04:47 PM   #1835
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yokomo BD drive shaft ( dogbone end)

Can someone tell ,what mm is the length of the unversal drive shaft? 44mm,42mm ?
question 2 ...what mm size of the ball end that goes inside the outdrive? 68mm.59mm 62mm not sure...Thanks

question 3
What other TC are interchangeable shaftdrive to yokomo BD5?
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:33 PM   #1836
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yokomo BD drive shaft ( dogbone end)

Can someone tell ,what mm is the length of the unversal drive shaft? 44mm,42mm ?
question 2 ...what mm size of the ball end that goes inside the outdrive? 68mm.59mm 62mm not sure...Thanks

question 3
What other TC are interchangeable shaftdrive to yokomo BD5?
tamiya 46mm, 44mm, top photon 46mm

but need to use the whole set...
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:34 PM   #1837
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Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
Great discussion going on here! I'll try the HPI Pinks and Silvers and see if they will suit my driving style. The PInks in front and Blue ones in the back seem to work for me already, but I'm assuming that since the silver ones are closer in rate, they should give an even more consistent feel. Will try it out on Tuesday and report back here my findings

Thanks guys!!!
i tried hpi blue for rear, make my rear very bouncing/floating....maybe good for smooth and flat surface
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:36 PM   #1838
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Hi I have a problem with the wear of the front and rear wheels, I was more worn on the outside and inside a slot is marked by the center as new, I'm using 1.5 camber angle
it's might cause by the tyres insert...insert that thin and soft will cause this happen....try sorex c-med insert...
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:03 PM   #1839
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Hello

Would anyone tell me the purpose of raising the camber link by adding shims on both the inside and outside mounting (i.e., e.g. adding 0.5mm shim on the rear hub and also adding 0.5mm shim on the bulkhead at the same time)? Actually, the link angle doesn't change, right?

Thanks!
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:41 PM   #1840
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Originally Posted by altreyx View Post
i was reading something about the springs: linear or progressive.
HPI are linear because the progressive ones are build with differents coils, cecking on the HPI website is possible find what is progressive or not.
But having both sets (HPI and Yokomo) for me Yokomo aren't progressive because are similar to the HPI while the progressive springs should have a difference space between their coils.
For me they are simple called Yokomo Pro Springs but PRO doesn't mean progressive.
May be i'm wrong but how can you define a progressive spring, for what i saw all the progressive springs have like a top and a bottom side.

Many thanks for who can explain me if i'm right or not
I actually totally agree with you. When I did my Mechanical theory at trade school we did a whole chapter on springs and yes Progressive springs are supposed to be tighter coiled either at one end or both. At least in the full-size world!
I was told by some-one at the last worlds who was told by an X-Factory Yokomo driver that the Yokomo springs were progressive.
Maybe they are not!! Perhaps Martin could jump in here and put the record strait.

I guess what really matters is how they perform for each of us but it would be nice to know for sure!
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:52 PM   #1841
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Originally Posted by yokfans View Post
Hello

Would anyone tell me the purpose of raising the camber link by adding shims on both the inside and outside mounting (i.e., e.g. adding 0.5mm shim on the rear hub and also adding 0.5mm shim on the bulkhead at the same time)? Actually, the link angle doesn't change, right?

Thanks!
You are correct in that the angle of the Upper Camber Link does stay the same if you place the same shim under each end. However you do increase the intersection point of the upper and lower arms and the wheel contact point (Instant Roll Centre)

To cut a long story short by raising both you will lower the roll center very slightly giving the rear slightly more grip, especially on-power. It will also stabilize the cat slightly as well.
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:54 PM   #1842
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OK, OK,I know we all like a stabilized CAT. But in this case I meant CAR
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Old 06-07-2010, 12:40 AM   #1843
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Originally Posted by Dual Fuel View Post
You are correct in that the angle of the Upper Camber Link does stay the same if you place the same shim under each end. However you do increase the intersection point of the upper and lower arms and the wheel contact point (Instant Roll Centre)

To cut a long story short by raising both you will lower the roll center very slightly giving the rear slightly more grip, especially on-power. It will also stabilize the cat slightly as well.
Thanks a lot!
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:14 AM   #1844
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Originally Posted by manchu View Post
Hi I have a problem with the wear of the front and rear wheels, I was more worn on the outside and inside a slot is marked by the center as new, I'm using 1.5 camber angle
sounds like your car is rolling too much. Try 1 rate harder spping front and rear, or go 10wt oil harder all round
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Old 06-07-2010, 04:15 AM   #1845
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Unhappy for antoni or kschu

I am using the setup that you publish and 35w oil schumacher and tires LRP VTEC 30x
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